SparkSVT Posted July 15, 2005 Share Posted July 15, 2005 I just put my 93 Loyale 4x4 wagon in the shop for a massive oil leak and check engine light on. I got it back today 500 dollars later and they replaced the cam seals, right axle (axle boot ripped), and new 02 sensor. Its still leaking, and the check engine light is on still. What else could it be? It seems to be dripping from the center front of the car and leaks worse the more rpms. I called the shop and they said bring it back in on monday. Help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gravityman Posted July 15, 2005 Share Posted July 15, 2005 You may have a bad oil seal...(duuu Im retarded). A bad seal in the oil pump. Thats better. The more rpms you run the more pressure the pump will have to force the oil out of the broken seal. New seal $3.00. Why did they change the O2 sensor, which you shouldn't have payed more then $25 for? because the light? Have autozone check the light they should do it for free, so you can verify if that is the cause of the light. Also they should be able to clear the light if it is just an old fault from the old o2 sensor. I hope this helps. Try this site its awsome for parts!!! https://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/mak,SUBARU,1993,LOYALE,1270156,1.8L+1781cc+H4+TBI+%284%29 Don't let anyone bully you around about the price of parts!!! Send them to me if need be!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted July 15, 2005 Share Posted July 15, 2005 use this link to pull the codes from the ECU: http://www.usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f29b58f4430b8.49200047/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f2c055f4862e9.39782181.art Your seal problem sounds like it could be either the front main or the oil pump. Both of which are easy to get to if they already have the belts off to replace one of the cam seals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SparkSVT Posted July 16, 2005 Author Share Posted July 16, 2005 oh I forgot to mention when I picked it up today when I started it up it tapped VERY VERY LOUDLY for about 10 minutes while driving. Now it has allways had a little bit of a tap to it but this thing sounded like an old dodge slant 6... it tapped LOUD. It seems to have gone away and is tapping lightly as it did normally before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyromanic Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 It just took a while for your lifters to pump up? No worries? Pyro oh I forgot to mention when I picked it up today when I started it up it tapped VERY VERY LOUDLY for about 10 minutes while driving. Now it has allways had a little bit of a tap to it but this thing sounded like an old dodge slant 6... it tapped LOUD. It seems to have gone away and is tapping lightly as it did normally before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
555Ron Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 a new driveshaft because of a torn boot? Suprised you didnt get the engine replaced because of the oil leak:-\. I'd find another mechanic... he seems to be taking you for a ride... and your paying big for it too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gravityman Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 I am in complete aggreance with 555Ron, If there is any thing I hate more then dirty socks it those DAMB SHADY A$$ CAR MECHANICS!!!!! I had a friend go in for a spark plug change ONLY on a suzuki side kick (very easy maintenance), He leaves with an $80 bill. $80 buck could have bought him the wrench and the socket to remove them + about 30 spark plugs and an oil change. The messed up thing is after he got the car back something else was wrong, he brings it back to them and spends another $150 for (I think)a new O2 sensor. Well something else AGAIN and he spent another $400. He eventually sold it because he couldnt afford the maintenance on it. That same "mechanic" sold him a pontiac with 160000 miles on it for about $2000 and I was 10 times worse than his sidekick. Im just glad that his pontiacs transmission siezed up (4 months later) so he couldnt go back to those JERKS. I kept giving him advice and he would say "ok, i'll do that" but the next day bring the car to those mechanics. :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: DONT FALL INTO THIS TRICK!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SparkSVT Posted July 21, 2005 Author Share Posted July 21, 2005 well he now says its the oil pump gasket or the pump leaking. he tore it all apart again, i cant wait for the bill on this one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gravityman Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 Well they usually have a time listing for almost every car that tells them how long the job will take them. My friend (mechanic) said that they are only allowed to change for the amount of hour that chart tell them how long the job will take. Ya know when you add up smoke breaks and coffee breaks and bull $hiting, the job that was stated to take 5 hours to do just became a 7 hour job. Now when they charge $60-80 an hour, instead of paying about $300 your paying $420 for the same work + them F-ing around on the job. Most legitimate shops will have these time charts, even small ones, Its a matter of integrety. I think they are mandated by some company. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SparkSVT Posted July 21, 2005 Author Share Posted July 21, 2005 just called the shop. they did the oil pump seal and also the crank seal. so now I have new cam,crank and oil pump seals... wtf? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 They prolly did the crank seal for two rasons 1) it needed it 2) 90% of the work was already done getting the timing belts off and oil pump off If you cant do the work yourself then you gotta pay the price. Be sure to call around and get good estimates. I'd call no less than 5 shops; preferably 10. You'll notice some try to tell you "i have to see it" or "i cant give you an estimate over the phone"; forget them and move on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syonyk Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 They're not bad engines to work on... Get a decent tool set, a Haynes manual, a nice internet connection to USMB, and you're pretty much set. -=Russ=- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thealleyboy Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 If I were you, I would get that engine bay cleaned out, and find the real source of the leak before spending any more dough. Sometimes leaks can be difficult to find, and your mechanic may be "throwing" seals at it, cause he's too lazy to diagnose it properly. With the engine cleaned, anyone (including you) can pinpoint the leak visually. You can then decide if you want to do it yourself, or pay someone else for the repair. If you decide to do this, remove the skid plate, and side splash sheilds so you can get all the way round your motor. If you have drive-up ramps, this will be a piece of cake. Just run your engine till it's hot and spray 2-3 cans of Foamy Engine Brite from above and below. Let it sit awhile, then rinse with water. The engine will now be clean enough to identify fresh oil leaks. You can then go your mechanic, and call the shots - instead of the other way around. Otherwise, you are at the complete mercy of the skill, and trustworthiness, of the mechanic... good luck, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SparkSVT Posted July 27, 2005 Author Share Posted July 27, 2005 I just got the car back for a SECOND time. this time they replaced the oil pump seal, crank seal and timing belts. Halfway home it pissed oil all over again. It leaks severely and im at a total loss of what to do. Im seriously considering bailing out of this car. Its a shame, it only has 33,000 miles on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thealleyboy Posted July 27, 2005 Share Posted July 27, 2005 An oil leak is no reason to bail on this car. Oftentimes the problems that seem most severe are the easiest to correct. Again, you have to determine the source of the leak(s). Obviously, the mechanic you are using isn't diagnosing this properly. I would get another mechanic involved, perferably someone who knows Subes, and consider seeking restitution from the shop you are using presently. good luck, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SparkSVT Posted July 27, 2005 Author Share Posted July 27, 2005 Im wondering if something major is wrong. It seems to only start leaking when you drive it on the highway where the RPMs are high (3 speed auto trans). It then starts spewing oil and the oil hits the exaust parts and catlytic converter ect and then it pours smoke all over. When I first got the car I went to pep boys and baught a purolator brand PCV valve. I have no idea if that has anything at all to do with it. It leaks severely from the center front area of the engine. Im going to replace the oil filter in case its the filter gasket or something small like that. I am at my wits end with this leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thealleyboy Posted July 27, 2005 Share Posted July 27, 2005 Are the timing belt covers still off? If not, you may want to remove them to get a good look the seals and oil pump area. I don't think the PCV is to blame, but you could take it out and see if it still "rattles". If not, then replace it. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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