subynut Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 I lost me head gaskets and have wonderfull chocolate milkshake for oil. So, how do I clean out the oil passages and oil pan with the engine shortblock still in the car? My dad said I can do like 2 oil changes after I put it back together to clean out the rest of the engine. Would that work, or is there a better way? Besides taking it COMPLETELY apart? I've got the heads off and I am going to have them checked to make sure they didn't get warped. I am also going to have them check out the valves and make sure they are ok too. Also, what's the best way to clean out the HLAs? I did find a broken ring on one of the lifters. Thankfully, it's all there so there's no piece stuck someware looking for trouble. I think I found my valve tap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 I've always used 1qt oil & 3 or 4 qts kerosene to flush the oil system on an engine that blew a head gasket. I pull the drain plug and let the goo drain into a catch can as I work on the engine. When it's ready to go, put the oil/kerosene in and let it run 10-15 minutes, drain it, re-fill with fresh oil. Change oil filter before doing the flush, and once again after the flush. Do another oil & filter change after driving for a week or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted August 4, 2005 Author Share Posted August 4, 2005 Where I would get kerosene? How 'bout atf? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 I personally would not pour inflammable liquid into my oil pan. This sounds like a recipe for potential disaster. Your father's recommendation sounds like a good start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSPFI Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 CRC makes a can of stuff that you put into your oil before you change your oil that cleans that stuff out pretty well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted August 5, 2005 Author Share Posted August 5, 2005 Yeah,that's what I was wondering. I'm either going to put some ATF in there or just do 2 or 3 oil changes to help clean out the passages. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted August 5, 2005 Share Posted August 5, 2005 You need something that will "cut" the Anti-freeze mixture off of the bearings in your engine, ATF or multiple oil changes will not do this, and you run the risk of damaging the bearings if all of the Anti-freeze is not removed. Anti-freeze will remove the coating that is on bearings, (I can't recall what all of the layers are right of this moment), but there's a couple coatings on the bearing that help protect it along with the oil. Once that protective coating is gone, the bearings will not last long. The use of Kerosene is recommended by many Professional Mechanics for doing an engine flush after popping a head gasket. A product sold in alot of the Parts stores around here is, Rislone Engine Flush. It's for flushing the oil system in an engine. Not 100% on what all it is, but it has a redish tint and smells very much like Kerosene, sells for something like $2.30 for slightly less than a quart. Kerosene around here goes for something like $1.95 a gallon, you do the math. If you can't find Kerosene around your part of the woods, Deisel fuel is just as good. Call one of your local garages and ask them what they use or recommend for flushing an engine after popping a head gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted August 5, 2005 Author Share Posted August 5, 2005 Ok, I'll check it out. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted August 5, 2005 Share Posted August 5, 2005 Bearings are made of layers, usually cast (last I heard, which was last Millenium ). The different layers convey different properties to the bearing. I believe that the top layer (not a "coating" in the thin, paint or optical sense) is rich in tin for corrosion resistance. I can see the coolant attacking (etching) the top layer, but I also would imagine that oil contains additives that will mitigate continued damage... once you remove the contaminated oil and get some fresh oil moving across it. The use of an engine flush would still be a good idea, but, again, I would be very cautious of "home remedies" that contain inflammable liquids. If your engine/compartment catches fire (subes leak, and all leaks find their way to the exhaust pipe... ), with a flush you may have some legal recourse, while a home remedy could get you a bill from the fire department and a whole list of legal/financial woes. A fire is unlikely, but is the benefit worth the risk? Just my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccrinc Posted August 6, 2005 Share Posted August 6, 2005 Rislone. Good stuff. Also works to clean shellac off manual transmission gears and synchros. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted August 6, 2005 Author Share Posted August 6, 2005 Coolness! I'll pickup some tomarrow. Thanks Emily! More Q's: Do I need to re-torque the heads after first run? Is there a gasket betwen the cam tower and the head? It doesn't look like it did. Just looked like that grey rtv type stuff. I''m going to use that same stuff to "build" a gasket there. Am I on the right track? Should I replace that o-ring in the cam tower too? It looks a little flat. Still somewhat soft, tho. The valve cover gaskets are still soft, so I'm not going to replace those. I take it I should leave the lifters alone and let the enigine cleaner do it's job? Thanks for all your help so far. This is quite a project, Suby looks so funny without the heads on. Poor Suby, it's raining outside and we can't go play in the mud puddles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted August 6, 2005 Share Posted August 6, 2005 There is no gasket between the head and cam case, just use a good quality grey silicone. Just don't slop it on. Just a thin layer will do. I believe the O ring is 10 mm x 2 mm. When they get flat and hard, they will bleed oil pressure and it is one of the causes for valve tick. Replace them. Coolness! I'll pickup some tomarrow. Thanks Emily! More Q's: Do I need to re-torque the heads after first run? Is there a gasket betwen the cam tower and the head? It doesn't look like it did. Just looked like that grey rtv type stuff. I''m going to use that same stuff to "build" a gasket there. Am I on the right track? Should I replace that o-ring in the cam tower too? It looks a little flat. Still somewhat soft, tho. The valve cover gaskets are still soft, so I'm not going to replace those. I take it I should leave the lifters alone and let the enigine cleaner do it's job? Thanks for all your help so far. This is quite a project, Suby looks so funny without the heads on. Poor Suby, it's raining outside and we can't go play in the mud puddles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted August 6, 2005 Author Share Posted August 6, 2005 Thanks! I'll put that on the list also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted August 6, 2005 Share Posted August 6, 2005 Replace the cam carrier o-ring for sure. The most often recommended material for the camcarrier to head surface seems to be anaerobic sealer. Threebond 1215 is what FSM calls for, but Permatex markets it also. It is pricey stuff: $10-15 for an RTV style tube, plus another $10-15 for prep/activator spray. Thanks Emily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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