so i went and got myself some 14" pugs and some studded tires.

 

and i learned some things from this...

 

1. pulling studs sucks... i mean really sucks!

 

2. my frame is all bent, or something is. it seems as though the drivers side (front and back) is about 1" further forward than the pass.

 

3. my fenders are/were and 50/50 mix of bondo and metal... with some of that metal being rust. now they are more of a 50/50 of there and not.

 

4. i need a new straight brat and a lift to avoid some of these. who's got an incredibly cheap(costs nothing more than me getting it out of your yard)straight brat.

 

sorry about the terrible pic... camera sucks

 

tire dif

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/123622.jpg

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/123621.JPG

 

before side

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/123623.jpg

 

after side

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/123624.jpg

Just lift the one you have. I bet my wagon is way more rusty. You wont find a cheap one that isnt in rough shape; thats how it works.... expensive and good shape / cheap and rough shape. Do you really want to beat the piss out of one in good shape? I prefer pounding a rusty one on rocks and trees so I can smile real big instead of frown

gonna work on a lift... seems difficult to lift a gen 1 brat. in time though i'll figure it out

 

 

 

Just lift the one you have. I bet my wagon is way more rusty. You wont find a cheap one that isnt in rough shape; thats how it works.... expensive and good shape / cheap and rough shape. Do you really want to beat the piss out of one in good shape? I prefer pounding a rusty one on rocks and trees so I can smile real big instead of frown

gonna work on a lift... seems difficult to lift a gen 1 brat. in time though i'll figure it out

 

 

 

Bring it over we will get that Brat lifted

In case you need a bit of motivation to lift your gen1, here's one from your neck of the woods. The builder showed up near the end of WCSS2 and I think he got the award for having drawing the biggest croud or something like that.

wow....someday, hey scott i might be running out of state... but if i don't i'll plan on running your way with a small wad of cash...after i fix the clutch.

 

 

 

In case you need a bit of motivation to lift your gen1, here's one from your neck of the woods. The builder showed up near the end of WCSS2 and I think he got the award for having drawing the biggest croud or something like that.

In case you need a bit of motivation to lift your gen1, here's one from your neck of the woods. The builder showed up near the end of WCSS2 and I think he got the award for having drawing the biggest croud or something like that.

 

I think that one wasn't actually lifted. He crammed some 30s under it, but no lift. He actually showed up to Walker Valley for one of our meets, but left soon after we began offroading. His big tires really limited his turning radius, and the single range 1600 had problems pushing those big suckers.

I think that one wasn't actually lifted. He crammed some 30s under it, but no lift. He actually showed up to Walker Valley for one of our meets, but left soon after we began offroading. His big tires really limited his turning radius, and the single range 1600 had problems pushing those big suckers.

 

WOW, 1600cc pushing 30"s ? And I thought I floored it with 29"s and an 18000cc SPFI! LOL

after i fix the clutch.

 

 

Clutch ? we will do it the same time as lift

My memory isn't so good but I'd swear I saw sections of rectangular tubing under the shocks and etc on that snow camo Brat. In any case, I was just pointing out that gen1's are liftable and look cool with gnarly treads.

Hey Scott how much to lift an old wagon or brat?

Hey Scott how much to lift an old wagon or brat?

 

once I am tooled up for a 3" or 4 " hope to keep the kit under $400 havent done one yet been working on the EA82 details if I do Uncools Brat I will know whats involved

1. pulling studs sucks... i mean really sucks!

 

 

YES big time

 

when i was a kid, this lady gave me $12 to pull a whole set of studded snows, boy that was the hardest earned 12 bucks i ever made!

 

you have to lift it now that you got the pugs

 

check out these pics

 

Jon

Hope it's not too late to jump into this thread.

 

I've pulled lots of tire studs in my life. Typically after buying a set of studded snow tires and then not having enough money in the spring to buy something else, so it means pulling the studs and keep driving on the snow tires. I've tried needlenose pliers, visegrips, awls, and screwdrivers. What seem to work best for me is a strong small tipped flat screwdriver with a bunch of electrical tape wrapped around the handle to give it cushion and not create a big blister on your hand from all that hard pushing and prying. If the screwdriver is too small it bends easy, so sometimes I take a bigger screwdriver and grind down the tip a little smaller. The procedure involves poking the screwdriver down alongside the stud until it is beyond the base and then prying it sideways so the screwdriver tip pushes up and out the stud. I must have popped out thousands of studs this way and got blisters on my hands in the process. That is why the big padded handle is needed. Oh yeah, and sometimes it help to wear a glove.

 

Rollie

beer + screwdriver + motor oil = slightly less bad time pulling studs

 

 

 

Hope it's not too late to jump into this thread.

 

I've pulled lots of tire studs in my life. Typically after buying a set of studded snow tires and then not having enough money in the spring to buy something else, so it means pulling the studs and keep driving on the snow tires. I've tried needlenose pliers, visegrips, awls, and screwdrivers. What seem to work best for me is a strong small tipped flat screwdriver with a bunch of electrical tape wrapped around the handle to give it cushion and not create a big blister on your hand from all that hard pushing and prying. If the screwdriver is too small it bends easy, so sometimes I take a bigger screwdriver and grind down the tip a little smaller. The procedure involves poking the screwdriver down alongside the stud until it is beyond the base and then prying it sideways so the screwdriver tip pushes up and out the stud. I must have popped out thousands of studs this way and got blisters on my hands in the process. That is why the big padded handle is needed. Oh yeah, and sometimes it help to wear a glove.

 

Rollie