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LSD ratio conversion vs. gear lash adjustment?


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allright, so I have a 4.11 LSD that I'm going to relist on ebay soon. I had a few questions from people, concerning adjusting the gear lash after the swap. I spoke with WJM about this and he confirmed what I had assumed, namely, that as long as I only swapped the chunk and left the pinion and all the front side stuff alone that it would be OK.

That wasn't good enough for this guy..

 

ME: To verify that this is acceptable, I asked a friend of mine who works in a Subaru shop and he told me that as long as I'd left it alone in the first place, that there was no adjustment necessary. Thank you for the question and your interest in the differential.

HIM:

If you put a different set of gears onto a LSD that they did not come from, then you have problems !

Only if the LSD came in that housing, with those gears, and it be re-assembled without rechecking gear lash.

But as I understand your auction description, You put different gears into that unit than it came with.

That unit needs someone to check it out, or there will be a set of trashed gears in it's future.

No to sets of gears are machined exactly the same, even if they are the same ratio.

You swap ratios, you toss what ever chance of the gear mesh being correct right out the window.

If I was you, I would look for a new friend, because he sure won't fix the thing for free when it turns the gear oil into metallic paint.

 

So again, I put the chunk and races and axle stubs from the LSD in the 4.11 case. I had never heard of any of you LSD swappers adjusting the gear lash. WJM said this was fine as I thought. I'd like to get some 4th and 5th opinions about this before I relist the LSD, so I can consider this settled for once and for all, and so I can amend the auction thusly. thanks!

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Andy, the point is you are putting the LSD kernal into a diff housing with the correct ratio, gears, and LASH. As long as that is the case you are not changing anything other than adding the kernal. Frankly, if the guy doesn't know enough how to change that, he shouldn't bid on it and not hassle you.

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Wasn't exactally clear, but did you swap the ring and pinion, or the LSD clutch pack thing and gear stubs? I just swapped the LSD cartridge and axle stubs on mine, and made sure to use the same number of shims as came from the factory on each side to keep the factory settings preserved. (Was it the shims from the donor or the other way around?) I marked the gears with spray paint to see how the gear faces were meshing, and it looked OK to me. My big horespower co-workers thought this was risky DIY job, but unless this is going into a 500hp full time rear wheel drive, I don't think the backlash introduced by the manufacturing variances is that big of a deal. If you have had this in a running vehicle, and there aren't pieces of metal in the lube, it is likely ok. Mine worked fine.

 

- James B

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hm. well, having never done that before, I don't know what the pattern is supposed to look like.. I'm guessing that the less smearing, the better?

 

 

 

Why don't you just check the tooth engagement and make sure??? Go down to NAPA/where-ever get some Prussian Blue, put it on the ring teeth, and turn the gears. Nothing beats second-guessing like actually checking.
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hm. well, having never done that before, I don't know what the pattern is supposed to look like.. I'm guessing that the less smearing, the better?

 

Not putting all of the technical jargon in this,

 

Paint a light coat of the blue stuff on the gear teeth, don't really need to do all of them, maybe 5 to 8 teeth, Spin the gears around by hand. Take a look at where the blue was transfered off of the painted teeth. The contact point of the two gears should be more-or-less centered on the tooth.

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