Just got a phone call from a friend who HAD a 83 gl wagon, seems someone pulled out in front of said wagon. My friend Tboned the inattentive idiot at about 30 to 35mph, here is where the problem/questions come to play. My friends seat belt was on properly and secured, only problem is it didn't function properly and my friend ended up get partially ejected. After many internal and external stitches to my friends scalp and right elbow everything is as well as can be. Now I am asking these questions because only last week I had a problem with my seatbelt in my 87 hatch, it would lock half-way and would not release. I pulled it and replaced it with one from my parts hatch, so far seems to be working fine.

 

-what is the life expectancy of a stock seatbelt?

 

-what have you guys done for replacement belts?

 

-anyone know where to get OEM style replacement seatbelts?

 

Oh by the way my friends wagon was DOA, another old soobie gave its life.

if you just yank on the seatbelt as fast as you can it will just roll out, but try and do it while bouncing over some rough terrain, and they should catch as you yank on them. Then you know they should work in an accident.

It was either a Volvo or Toyota owner's manual I was reading last year, that said to their seat belts were designed to be replaced every 10 years!

 

I've replaced worn/frayed webbing, but if the retractor mechanism gets worn, I'd look hard at the replacement one. If it was a 'yard one, it'd get a good cleaning and lube. A lot of junk gets into them.

Anyone else have any other ideas, or dealings with seatbelts?

 

Thanks..

on my 86 spfi a/t fwd sedan , the seats belts would not pull out at all , there are 2 springs at the bottom , one of mine fell off or broke off , i had a parts car which had good ones and replaced them , and the belts work good . :wave:

The JC Whitney catalog has OEM style seatbelts and replacement webbing, visit their website for a catalog. http://www.jcwhitney.com . Also I believe that the later model Soob seatbelts work on a pendulum--if the car stops short (sudden braking or an accident) the pendulum swings forward and locks the belt. So if the belt is stuck try reversing and slamming on the brakes to free the pendulum if that's the issue, or cleaning out any gunk around it.

ok ok, here's what you do...

1. remove old worn out seatbelts

2. Look in a catalogue

3. Find 5-point racing harnesses

4. Buy harnesses

5. Install harnesses

6. No more problems with retactors

 

 

I hope this helps:brow:

Nice idea Caboo, I was think'n of a four point. I would use the exsisting bolts to mount the lap belt and the rear seat belt bolts for the shoulder straps. I guess I'll have to decide if I want to put the rearseat in or just leave it out.

Originally posted by asavage

It was either a Volvo or Toyota owner's manual I was reading last year, that said to their seat belts were designed to be replaced every 10 years!

 

I've replaced worn/frayed webbing, but if the retractor mechanism gets worn, I'd look hard at the replacement one. If it was a 'yard one, it'd get a good cleaning and lube. A lot of junk gets into them.

 

I believe that they want them replaced every 10 years because of UV deteriorating the thread. That would cause a possible strap break during an accident.

 

 

EJ, I'm sorry to hear about your friend. I hope he recovers well.

As for the internal latching mechanism I don't think they have a rated life. They should work forever. I think you're friend had one of those weird incidents were everything lined up the wrong way. Same thing happened to my mother in 1998 in her 1998 honda accord. Someone pulled out in front of her and she t-boned them at 30. Seatbelt didn't latch AND the airbag didn't go off. Honda could give her no reason why they didn't work.

 

Keith

I know that the belts of my brats jumpseats lock if you don't pull them out slow, if you pulled on them like normal seatbelts they would lock after an inch, seroiusly.