Legacy engine transplant

[dahirolla]

I want to put a 1.8 TBI (throttle body injection) engine from a '89 Subaru Legacy wagon into an '89 DL wagon that had a 1.8 SPFI (single point fuel injection) engine in it. Can you tell me what kind of changes I'll need to make to the DL Wagon to be able to put the Legacy engine in it. Also, will the air conditioning systems be compatible? I can tell you that the air conditioner lines are routed a little differently. Also, the instructions in the Chilton's manual tell you to take off a lot of the ancillary parts of the engine before you take the engine out. Is this necessary or can you just unhook the wires and hoses and pull the whole thing out like that? I've never attempted to do anything like this before, so any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated. Thank you, PW

[MorganM]

1.8 TBI 1989 Legacy?

[Snowman]

The legacy only came with multi-point fuel injection, not TBI/SPFI. Please clarify.

 

If you're talking about putting an EJ22 from a legacy in, it's a substantial job requiring either a tranny adapter plate or putting the whole legacy drivetrain in. It can be done, but is not a small project.

[dahirolla]

I want to put a 1.8 TBI (throttle body injection) engine from a '89 Subaru Legacy wagon into an '89 DL wagon that had a 1.8 SPFI (single point fuel injection) engine in it. Can you tell me what kind of changes I'll need to make to the DL Wagon to be able to put the Legacy engine in it. Also, will the air conditioning systems be compatible? I can tell you that the air conditioner lines are routed a little differently. Also, the instructions in the Chilton's manual tell you to take off a lot of the ancillary parts of the engine before you take the engine out. Is this necessary or can you just unhook the wires and hoses and pull the whole thing out like that? I've never attempted to do anything like this before, so any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated. Thank you, PW

 

My mistake: I'm transplanting a 1.8 TBI from an 89 Loyale (4wd) into an 89 Wagon DL (1.8 SPFI).

[Snowman]

Everything should be absolutely identical between the two models.

[dahirolla]

1.8 TBI 1989 Legacy?

 

I'm sorry, it is a Loyale, not a Legacy! (We have another Legacy and so got confused.) Does that help? What kind of wiring changes will I need to make? Thanks for your help!

[dahirolla]

The legacy only came with multi-point fuel injection, not TBI/SPFI. Please clarify.

 

If you're talking about putting an EJ22 from a legacy in, it's a substantial job requiring either a tranny adapter plate or putting the whole legacy drivetrain in. It can be done, but is not a small project.

 

I'm sorry but we are putting a 1.8 TBI from an 89 Loyale (4wd) into an 89 Wagon DL that has a 1.8 SPFI. Does that make more sense?

[Skip]

SPFI is TBI, same thing, equal, no difference

 

Just use the intake manifold from the DL

 

no worries

 

 

Now if you happen to mean MPFI

same thing - use the intake manifold and all it's bits from the DL

[Snowman]

SPFI is TBI, same thing, equal, no difference

 

Just use the intake manifold from the DL

 

no worries

 

 

Now if you happen to mean MPFI

same thing - use the intake manifold and all it's bits from the DL

 

????

 

Unless I'm confused, SPFI uses single port heads and MPFI uses dual port heads, so you'd have to use the intake, wiring harness, and computer from the other car, but that would work.

 

This is ONLY if it's MPFI, which it sounds like is not the case.

[Skip]

right you are S man

 

sorry, been a lng one

[Snowman]

It's all good.

[dahirolla]

Thanks for responding to the engine transfer question. It would help me if you could answer a couple more questions. I'm good at doing my own car maintainance and repair,but I haven't ever swapped out engines in a car so it's all kind of new to me. As I noted before, the engine I'm using is out of a 89 Loyale wagon. This particular model has power accessories, such as windows, cruise control, power seats, etc. The car the engine is going in is a 89 DL wagon and it doesn't have power anything, nor does it have cruise control. One question is: will the wiring interface? Am I going to have any problems with the wiring that hooks up to the different engine components? Sometimes they leave out pins in the plugs of wiring harnesses for different models with different options,but the plugs and the wiring are the same. Is that what I'm going to find in my situation with the DL wagon? And what about the brain box or the computer as it is sometimes called? Another question I have is: If I follow the directions in my Chilton's Manual for pulling the engine out of the Loyale, the manual tells me I need to pull off all kinds of ancillary stuff like the starter, alternator and the compressor, etc. It looks to me like I could just pull the engine out with everything attached. Can I or do I need to pull that stuff off so I can get to the bolts and nuts to disconnect the engine from the car? One final question: As stated above, this engine is going into a plain jane DL wagon that has no power options. And of course, I'd like to be able to put the engine in another Loyale or anything with a lot of nice power options. What would you do if you were looking for a good body to put a good engine in? In case you're wondering, the Loyale I'm pulling the engine out of was in a wreck and is totaled, except for the the transmission, and the engine. Thanks for taking the time to answer this long letter. When you don't know exactly what you're doing, it helps your confidence when you can find someone willing to help you out like this. Thanks Again, PW

Everything should be absolutely identical between the two models.

[Skip]

PW,

Okay I'll start in hopes someone else, Snowman (as he knows his stuff) for instance,

will fill any gaps or fix any of my fox paws (sic).

 

Your best bet is to retain the top part of the engine which is called the intake manifold.

This devise has attached to it all the sensors and electronic parts

(except for the 02 sensor - which is in the exhaust)

that your brain box is used to seeing. (i.e. no problems with the harness connectors or devise interfacing)

 

It has been done by removing this unit all connected (6 bolts - three on each intake to head connection)**,

and raising the entire manifold into the spare tire area.

(note: you may need to remove some hoses and wiring,

each hose or wire you disconnect put a piece of masking tape on the hose and a piece on the barb it came off of.

Then label both like ... A - A, B - B ect.)

 

Then change only the lower part, called the block.

 

With care the intake manifold connections on each side of the block can be used for the engine crane lift

connection. Insulate the connection with wood or similar as to not damage the head surface.

 

Some ancillary parts, AC compressor and PS pump, can be removed by unbolting the bracket only (leave the hoses attached)

and moving the unit to one side. (e.g. The battery should be removed - it's tray will hold the AC compressor)

 

A tip you will no doubt hear or read is to do a timing belt, water pump and front end reseal to the new block before installation.

 

Excellent advise this, as doing it in the car is fun but easier on an engine stand or 55 gallon drum.

A simple use of the "search" function will yield many posts on this subject.

 

** This special note is brought to you by your friends at PB Blaster. This miracle in a can is excellent for

freeing frozen fasteners - intake manifold bolts like to corrode to the manifold, as do the exhaust pipe fasteners.

Gentle persuasion is best - ham fisted tactics usually lead to more problems.

The blue tipped hot wrench can be one of your best allies.

 

As a final epilogue to my diatribe,

please if you will, note how I used spacing to break this lengthy post into a more reader friendly fashion.

 

Long run on paragraphs tend to tangle themselves into a hard to read knot....

and for me..doing a spell check is a must

 

Another small bit of advise is to trash the "Children's" manual (Chilton's) and get a

Factory Service Manual (FSM) or Bentley manual.

- fishing one out of the bay of E is what most do.

 

Good luck and may the Power of the Pleiades be with you

[dahirolla]

Thanks for the information regarding removing the intake manifold. The original engine was having some electronic problems, I assume, because the check engine light stayed on continuously and no one could figure out why. Therefore I was hoping to change the intake manifold as well, along with all its electrical components. Could you answer a couple of questions?

 

Can I just move the whole engine with the intake manifold attached? Other than being a little more complicated, are there other problems involved?

 

Does the fact that the car that the engine is being dropped into doesn't have the power options change the hook-ups. Does the brain also control the power options such as windows and door locks? Or is that on a whole separate circuit? I don't understand the electronics part very well.

 

Thanks for your other suggestions, as well. I am new to this type of format.

PW,

Okay I'll start in hopes someone else, Snowman (as he knows his stuff) for instance,

will fill any gaps or fix any of my fox paws (sic).

 

Your best bet is to retain the top part of the engine which is called the intake manifold.

This devise has attached to it all the sensors and electronic parts

(except for the 02 sensor - which is in the exhaust)

that your brain box is used to seeing. (i.e. no problems with the harness connectors or devise interfacing)

 

It has been done by removing this unit all connected (6 bolts - three on each intake to head connection)**,

and raising the entire manifold into the spare tire area.

(note: you may need to remove some hoses and wiring,

each hose or wire you disconnect put a piece of masking tape on the hose and a piece on the barb it came off of.

Then label both like ... A - A, B - B ect.)

 

Then change only the lower part, called the block.

 

With care the intake manifold connections on each side of the block can be used for the engine crane lift

connection. Insulate the connection with wood or similar as to not damage the head surface.

 

Some ancillary parts, AC compressor and PS pump, can be removed by unbolting the bracket only (leave the hoses attached)

and moving the unit to one side. (e.g. The battery should be removed - it's tray will hold the AC compressor)

 

A tip you will no doubt hear or read is to do a timing belt, water pump and front end reseal to the new block before installation.

 

Excellent advise this, as doing it in the car is fun but easier on an engine stand or 55 gallon drum.

A simple use of the "search" function will yield many posts on this subject.

 

** This special note is brought to you by your friends at PB Blaster. This miracle in a can is excellent for

freeing frozen fasteners - intake manifold bolts like to corrode to the manifold, as do the exhaust pipe fasteners.

Gentle persuasion is best - ham fisted tactics usually lead to more problems.

The blue tipped hot wrench can be one of your best allies.

 

As a final epilogue to my diatribe,

please if you will, note how I used spacing to break this lengthy post into a more reader friendly fashion.

 

Long run on paragraphs tend to tangle themselves into a hard to read knot....

and for me..doing a spell check is a must

 

Another small bit of advise is to trash the "Children's" manual (Chilton's) and get a

Factory Service Manual (FSM) or Bentley manual.

- fishing one out of the bay of E is what most do.

 

Good luck and may the Power of the Pleiades be with you

[zyewdall]

The original engine was having some electronic problems, I assume, because the check engine light stayed on continuously and no one could figure out why. \

 

Did you look up the error code for the check engine light? Alot of times it is the oxygen sensor, if the light is on, but the car seems to run perfectly fine.

[Skip]

Dah,

 

Zye is correct use the link below and before you rip into this swap see why the engine check light is on.

The connectors you need will be under the hood in the area of the driver's side hood hinge.

 

link to the board's repair manual

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/subrepair.htm

 

link to checking the error codes

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/mick-usrm/electrical/ecucodes.html

 

 

The power options will be independent circuits they are no worry.

The AC may be different as there was factory installed and dealer installed.

 

Do as you wish on the intake manifold but some connectors may not be exactly the same,

even in the same year there could be differences - your call here.

You mention not having this type of experience.. I say well you make the call.

 

The lower two nuts holding the engine to the tranny are real buggers--- tight and a bit hard to get to.

 

Support the tranny during the lift with something like a floor jack.

 

Good luck

 

 

 

Minor point but using the "post reply" instead of the "reply"

will prevent the coping of the previous post -

like my last "book" for instance.