i am just curious as to how a diff is welded. anyone got any pics? that would b cool. also would this be recomended for every day driving in my brumby?

several threads dedicated to this topic. try the search feature; pretty sure there's even a how-to thread or link to one.

Weld the side gears to the diff. weld the pin gears to the diff., weld the side and pin gears to each other.

U can use this in a DD, but I would recomend pulling 1 axle when on the street and put it back in when on the dirt.

I wouldn't weld the front diff unless you are just using it for drag racing. I have done quite a few rears that are still intact. The best way to do it is to remove the spider gears and do a fillet weld in between the teeth, one weld per gear. Don't actually weld any parts together, just make a glob to almost fill in the space between two of the teeth. The gears will rotate almost a full revolution before locking. This makes it much easier for street driving than a fully welded assembly.

 

This will allow the rear to float a few degrees while cornering so there's less binding.

 

This makes it real easy to change back to open diff if you don't like it.

 

I've done this on GM 10 bolts with built V8 engines without any problems.

 

You can also weld the spider gears while they are installed in the housing but you must make sure that all the gear oil is fully drained and cleaned with carb cleaner. Wait for the fumes to dissipate before stricking an arc!

 

This is way easy and there is a lot of info on "welding spider gears"

I have read about this method before, hows it hold up? I would think the 1st time U hit that welded spot with any power it would just snap of teeth from the pin gear:eek: U say U have done this to a 10B in a Chevy, did U do it that way? Is it still intact?

Not trying to dis your'e method here, honestly looking for 1st hand info on this:burnout:

I'd like to hear more on this real limited slip method too...

 

I welded my gears into a big glob and just do the axle install/removal method.

 

Looking for more first hand experience with this method

 

Tell us more...

Glenn

82 SubaruHummer--welded

84 GL Mad Max--the road warrier--unwelded

01 Forester--limited slip

I heard of this method before. I kinda think the shock loading would be worse than a solid diff. But the gears may be able to hold up. My ford beater had one of the bolts I had welded into the spider gears break off and get caught in the ring gear, and it stoped the truck dead. This does support the theory of the gears being able to handle it.

I have seen the method done on samurai front ends with good success though over time it will get more and more worn. Once it wears enough the gears can try to run over the welds and this can break the carrier. That is an extreme case though. The method is great for front ends cause it allows you to turn the front wheels easier while stationary or moving very slowly because of the extra play. It makes basically no difference over full welded once you are moving because that little bit of slack is taken up way too fast to be noticeable and then you are in the same binding situation.

 

Generally, welding the front is a no-no for daily driving (unless you're really hardcore ) Welding the rear is generally okay on the street but still isnt pleasant. Also welded rears can get a little hairy in the snow and rain.

Whatever method you use, you should preheat the parts before welding - they are probably a fairly high carbon steel. Heat to 150degC or thereabouts - slows cooling rate of HAZ and avoids formation of brittle martensite. Low hydrogen electrodes are a good idea too.

Has anyone done this in a Subaru before?

 

Wondering if Subaru use is theoretical or proven?