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Tex's RX thread for November


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Usually my threads are full of hate, angst, and depression regarding my RX. This one won't.

 

Know why?

 

 

I DROVE IT TO WORK TODAY.

 

I DROVE IT TO WORK YESTERDAY TOO.

 

:banana:

 

 

Now, I must say, everything is not perfect. Buts thats OK. Lets talk about what it does good first.

 

I'm only running 5psi on the TD04 right now, but currently it pulls damn good above 3700rpm. It idles are 1000rpm, only needing attention for the first 30 seconds or so on cold mornings. It starts first try, everytime. And has yet to stall out or die on me.

 

Now, lets recap the mods: brand new block, pistons, rings, etc.. heads. Copper HG's. Delta Cams (260 duration). TD04 turbo. Stock WRX DP, custom from there back. Custom fuel rails, FPR. WRX TMIC. XT6 flywheel, and clutch. Spider Intake.

 

Now... what needs work. Boost wants to come on at 2800rpm, but this just bogs the motor, especially in a load situation (going up hills, etc...) How to keep it from "bogging?"

 

Weird throttle issue. Try to hold throttle at 3000rpm, it will cutout and drop to 1000-1500rpm, then climb again... and repeat. Possible TPS issue, or throttle cabling issue. TPS checks out A OK so far with volt meter.

 

Possible low compression still... but need to just drive it and get rings seated. All cylinders about 110 psi.

 

I want to up the boost, to see if that does anything to the bog/lag issue, but am scared. Currently running just w/ factory boost solenoid and factory wastegate on TD04. I also want to try the little restrictor that the stock WRX boost lines have in them, maybe that would help...

 

Also, the car is stil FOR SALE. Asking $2800-$3k depending on options. OBO of course.

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We should try and prop open your waste gate and see what it does running no boost... i would also like to get a wide band o2 sensor on it to see what you read in boost, see what its really doing. i still think it's a fueling issue where you are not changing your fuel as it should to meet the boost... lets throw the boost controler on it tonight to see if it makes a difference...

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run a vac line from the reference port to the wastegate on the turbo. full wastegate control that way. good to hear that you're driving it now, I missed mine when it was down. good luck selling it aswell, I really want to see if you'll get that for it.

 

 

 

 

 

BTW if you want to chat on aim anytime my name is Supersportguy550.

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Oh, so THAT'S why there was an RX out front this morning.

 

BTW - do you have an XT of some variety also? black one?

 

 

I have a black '83 brat, brown '86 lifted wagon, and a white '87 RX. I drove a couple times last week my brothers turbo XT. Its a dark grey and auto.

 

I have to say... the turquoise looks better in person.

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I have a black '83 brat, brown '86 lifted wagon, and a white '87 RX. I drove a couple times last week my brothers turbo XT. Its a dark grey and auto.

 

I have to say... the turquoise looks better in person.

 

That must be what I saw last week.

 

The turquoise isn't bad. But there's some really bad scratching on both front corners, at least one rear corner, the bumpers are peeling, and there's a rust spot developing on the right front fender just above and behind the wheel well.

 

I'm thinking of creative/insane ways to take care of it, and give the car something to make it pop all at the same time.

 

I'm thinking of taking the areas of the car that still have paint in good condition, and masking off some simple graphics on those areas, then stripping down, priming, and painting the rest of the car, then clearcoating the whole thing. Maybe a two-tone look.

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I do believe he is refering to the vac. port on the turbo. Connect this straight with the wastegate, with no factory solenoid in between.

 

Thats how I have mine for the moment. Seems to work pretty well.. gets me 7psi on the TD-04 wastegate.

 

I have a homemade MBC and a turboxs MBC I have been using.. the home made one allows for more boost, but spikes.. the turboxs one is much smoother.

 

Now that its running well again, I will probably just throw down for something decent to control boost with

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That must be what I saw last week.

 

The turquoise isn't bad. But there's some really bad scratching on both front corners, at least one rear corner, the bumpers are peeling, and there's a rust spot developing on the right front fender just above and behind the wheel well.

 

I'm thinking of creative/insane ways to take care of it, and give the car something to make it pop all at the same time.

 

I'm thinking of taking the areas of the car that still have paint in good condition, and masking off some simple graphics on those areas, then stripping down, priming, and painting the rest of the car, then clearcoating the whole thing. Maybe a two-tone look.

 

Know whats better than paint?? VINYL graphics. I could do some cool stuff.

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Know whats better than paint?? VINYL graphics. I could do some cool stuff.

 

Vinyl graphics are good, but I'm going to have to paint the car anyway to take care of the places where it's peeling, scraped off, or rusting.

 

If I screw up on masking graphics, I can just finish painting the whole car, and go over it with vinyl later. :)

 

(You've seen the Kia, right?)

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I'm avg. 8 a day... :lol:

 

OK... more about the RX.

 

This morning I put in the "restrictor" in the boost line (going from the boost solenoid to the wastegate actuator). Used the factory OEM pill... and boost is way smoother!!

 

Score one for the home team.

 

Still a problem... bogging/chugging under load (like hills) when the car is under 3500rpm and boost starts to go positive. Have to back pedal like crazy, which is hard. Its like trying to accelerate up a hill, without touching the accelerator.

 

Also seems like there is a lot of "play" in the AWD system, takes a split second to load up on accel and decel, causing a jar or shake... Normal?

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Maybe your spark plug gap is too big, or your timing is too advanced? If its bogging it may be going uber rich, ,maybe dial back the rising rate fuel pressure dingus, or make sure that the stock one is good.

 

Gap is .040. Timing is at 20 degrees. My rising rate is just bigger than factory... still a 1:1 though. Its set at factory pressure 34 or 37psi, can't remember off the top of my head.

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Update!

 

Well, Last week I bought an Innovate LM-1 unit. Its a wideband controller, came with the handheld unit, oxygen sensor and some other doodads. I'm still waiting on the Aux. input cable to come, so i can take advantage of the data logging features of the unit.

 

I moved the stock o2 sensor back, from the custom bung I had put in right after the turbo, to the stock spot ont he WRX midpipe (that had been plugged). Then I placed the Wideband o2 sensor in the bung right after the turbo.

 

I did try to simulate the regular sensor with the wideband unit (built in feature) but I wasn't satisfied that it was working 100%. So thats why I decided to move the o2 sensor back.

 

On my first drive like this, car seemed bogging/laggy like usual. With any sort of throttle I was seeing 12:1 AFR's. With boost I was seeing 10:1 and 9:1 AFR's.

 

This morning I had a couple minutes free before I left for work, so I decided to try some things. First, I knocked the fuel pressure down a touch, seemed to help idle (although the car has been idling fine...). Then I adjusted idle adjustment screw on the TB. Again, it helped the idle become more stable.

 

Then I put the manual boost controller in. I left the stock wrx "restrictor" inline with it too. Made sure it was turned way down, and decided I better head to work.

 

WOW.

Car pulls hard now, all the way to 8psi. (before I was hitting 5, almost 6) So, not a huge increase in boost, but boost response and driving feel was greatly improved. I drove up the hill to work today, at 40mph, 3rd gear, with car in vacuum! So nice to not have to keep it from boosting. Then, when I did put my foot into it, it accelerated. Not quite as good as when not on a hill, but way better than before.

 

AFR's were pretty identical to before, so the increased boost really didn't cause me to run any leaner.

 

I also disconnected the SAFC. Its still "installed" but its not changing the maf voltage anymore. But still tells me throttle, maf %, and rpm.

 

So yeah, I'm stoked.

 

Oh yeah.. Cars still FOR SALE!

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Wohooo... its a rocket ship :) is it yet comparable to when we had it running before it blew up the last time? I'd be curious to now re-check your compression after having been driving it so much, i'm curiouse weather it may have gone up some... I don't know if i'll see you tonight, if not, i'll give you a call...

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