trxeslr66 Posted March 21, 2006 Share Posted March 21, 2006 I replaced coolent temp sensor and fuel filter exactly 3 months ago. Since then, the low idle went from being fixed to gradually getting worse and is pissing me off, however, in 3 months, no stalling and no CEL. The low idle has started shaking as it did before. I notice when stopped, if I put it in neutral the shaking stops, the idle dosnt change but it gets smooth. Also, it only happens when the car is warmed up. It seems to be more problematic morning and night when it is colder. I HAVE replaced the plugs with OEM, I have been considering replacing 2 things, the plug wires with OEM and the Injectors with OEM which have never been touched (seafoam has been used recently) and currently at 73k. Another thing I will try since it is free is when it acts up, I will take the hoses off of the fuel filter and connect them directly, bypassing the fuel filter. Since the new fuel filter fixed (or maybe just masked) the problem, this might reveal some crap in the gas tank clogging up the filter. It could have taken me a few times running near empty to get it clogged back up again. It does take a few seconds when stopping for it to get low. I just got new imprezza wheels and new toyo proxis tires as well as a brake/rotor job and otherwise, the car runs and looks great and I want it to last a bit longer and keep it for a second car for snow driving and such but this problem is burning my small brain up. I need help please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawsonmh15 Posted April 20, 2006 Author Share Posted April 20, 2006 I replaced coolent temp sensor and fuel filter exactly 3 months ago. Since then, the low idle went from being fixed to gradually getting worse and is pissing me off, however, in 3 months, no stalling and no CEL. The low idle has started shaking as it did before. I notice when stopped, if I put it in neutral the shaking stops, the idle dosnt change but it gets smooth. Also, it only happens when the car is warmed up. It seems to be more problematic morning and night when it is colder. I HAVE replaced the plugs with OEM, I have been considering replacing 2 things, the plug wires with OEM and the Injectors with OEM which have never been touched (seafoam has been used recently) and currently at 73k. Another thing I will try since it is free is when it acts up, I will take the hoses off of the fuel filter and connect them directly, bypassing the fuel filter. Since the new fuel filter fixed (or maybe just masked) the problem, this might reveal some crap in the gas tank clogging up the filter. It could have taken me a few times running near empty to get it clogged back up again. It does take a few seconds when stopping for it to get low. I just got new imprezza wheels and new toyo proxis tires as well as a brake/rotor job and otherwise, the car runs and looks great and I want it to last a bit longer and keep it for a second car for snow driving and such but this problem is burning my small brain up. I need help please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! BG 44K. Don't follow the directions. Use one can to a HALF tank of gas for best results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmyeds Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 Any update on this? My subie is doing the same thing. I intermittently get p1507 and p0507. Long story but I have replaced just about everything from a donor car and still if you don't let it warm up for awhile it dies. Only thing I have not yet tried was the nuetral switch which is listed on other threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trxeslr66 Posted March 1, 2007 Share Posted March 1, 2007 I know it has been a while since any posts were made here but... I will give an update and once again ask for HELP!! I have gone 1 year without stalling or a CEL. Problem is that the low idle is getting worse and i feel a CEL is soon to come. Jan 06 i installed a new ground wire and battery. This combo seemed to bandaid the problem. I think whatever the problem is, is killing the battery. My last battery (dihard gold) only lasted 1 year. After the current battery was installed for 3 months the idle began dropping again. I have noticed when checking the voltage it gets low when idle. The extra ground wire from engine to alternator seemed to initially help this. The alternator is original but was rebuilt 3.5 years ago. Any ideas? Is it worth trying a new alternator? Physically this car looks brand new, with the exception of the idle it runs like a new car. It is worth nothing on a trade so I really need to find a solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted March 2, 2007 Share Posted March 2, 2007 I am coming into this thread late, and havent read all of it but ... There comes a time to stop taking educated guesses over the net, throwing parts at the car., and take it to a dealer and let them diagnose it. http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/fuel/FtEmissionServiceS01.pdf there is one thing to look at. Have you soaked the engine with water while its running to see if there are any vacum leaks? You need someone that can check the engine parimeters better then most of us can do at home, like the dealer. After all the time and effort that has gone into this, its time to let a dealer look at it. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abeauch Posted March 5, 2007 Share Posted March 5, 2007 My 98 OBW tach does not have the ability to read below 500 rpm. It starts at zero and the first line is 500 rpm. I used to think I had a low idle until a big bright light came on in my brain and said Duh! Can youo read that low on your tach? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trxeslr66 Posted March 5, 2007 Share Posted March 5, 2007 Yeah, I agree, I think the first thick line on the tach is 500. The reason i say i knew i have been below that is because i plugged a code reader in. I can confirm that when it is on the line it reads around 500. Mine has gone down to 300. It is healthy that the engine can idle that low, but something is wrong. The next time it stalls I am going to the dealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjxtreme Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 I feel your pain and I am eager to hear what they say- I have a very similar problem- it idles at about 250 and shakes the whole car, but never stalls. A variety of non-dealer mechanics can't find anything wrong. I am scared of the dealer... very scared. I just paid $30 for an OEM brake caliper pin bushing kit... one tiny piece of rubber was all that I needed.... extrapolating on that, they will probably say that you can't buy just one part of the engine, you have to buy a short block cause thats all they've got. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjxtreme Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 I feel your pain and I am eager to hear what they say- I have a very similar problem- it idles at about 250 and shakes the whole car, but never stalls. A variety of non-dealer mechanics can't find anything wrong. I am scared of the dealer... very scared. I just paid $30 for an OEM brake caliper pin bushing kit... one tiny piece of rubber was all that I needed.... extrapolating on that, they will probably say that you can't buy just one part of the engine, you have to buy a short block cause thats all they've got. Oops. Not low idle... I assumed the ticks started at zero. Planning to look at timing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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