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Cam belt Q

Featured Replies

OK, I don't get it!!

I got a '91 Loy. wagon that needed a D side timing belt done. So I had Adam put a belt on for me (I had no time) and he put a new tensioner as well, that is what caused it to go. So now I have driven the car for 3 days, and yesterday it tore the D side belt a new one:banghead: It started with a strange rattle type of noise, so I looked under the hood and couldn't find anything wrong. I tryed to drive it home (about a mile away) and made it about 2 blocks before the belt had a ton of teeth chewd off and the engine quit runnin'. There was NO belt squeel, all the gauges wer good, including the oil pressure. Looking at it in the driveway now I can see that the teeth wer riped off the belt.

SO wat givess!?!? I have not pulled the belt yet, (havent don anything but look at it so far) but it would seem to me that only the oil pump drive pully (I'm gessing that's what it is) could do this, but I had good oil pressure:-\

Any ideas?

  • Author

Thinking about it now, I don't think it was a rattle (DUHHHH!!) I'm sure what I was hearing was the timing belt theeth draging/jumping somthing. But it was constant with RPM, not speratic at all.

  • Author

Any one? Can an oil pump sieze? Is the oil pump drive the cog pully on the driver side?

If the oil pressure was ok and constant, not fluctuating, I doubt that it was the oil pump... did he replace the Idler as well as the tensioner? sounds to me like the idler bearing seized up

If the oil pressure was ok and constant, not fluctuating, I doubt that it was the oil pump... did he replace the Idler as well as the tensioner? sounds to me like the idler bearing seized up

 

Exactly what I was thinking.

Definitely sounds like a tensioner... thats what mine did about a month ago. I would make certain that you had that pully replaced, and that it was the right one/ it was in good shape. Otherwise you have something creating un-do stress on your belt maybe.

  • Author

I have an EA82 ('91 1.8L) and I have never done the timing belts on one of these before. So I'm gessing that the tensioner is the smooth pully, and the idler is the coged pully just to the inside of the cam pully? If that is the case then I would think it's the idler pully. The back (smooth) side of the belt looks just like new, but the inside (cog) of the belt is riped up somthin'fearce! He put a new tensioner on it when he put the new belt on (Adam NDJ, he knows Subarus very well)

You are correct.

 

The idler doesn't go bad as often as the tensioners, but it should always be checked when doing a belt change, which is often overlooked.

my tensioner froze right up and ripped a good half of the teeth off a brand new belt. I think that it put so much resistance towards motion that teeth started getting tired quick and finally they just failed.

 

It has to be one of the pullys touching the belt is either turning too hard and or has bad bearings. I suppose that plastic touching the belt could wear it away farily quickly as well... or maybe you got a defective belt.

  • Author

Anyone still have that diagram that shows how everything should be lined up? I had it 2 or 3 crashes ago, but now I can't find it or my hard copy:banghead:

It was just a black and white full front dia. of the timing belsts, ect. and how it should all line up.

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