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Found this on ebay. The harness in my car that plugs into the white connector here...it has a "burnt" looking connector on the end of my plug. How does this plug come out of the tank? Pull the whole plate and it loosens from the bottom? Could this plug be causing my jerking, stalling and hard starting? Remember, it's intermittent. Thanks

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The white connector looks like a pass through connector and is crimped to the plate, vrom what i can tell. When i had mine apart, it didnt look like it came apart. The entire plate comes off and you gently manuver it out of the tank. Take extra care to not loose any of those tiny nuts.

 

When you have yours connected, is the connector a tight fit?

ALso what are the porblems your having and when. How many liles are on the car, what year, engine, auto or stick?

 

nipper

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I couldn't get that link to work.

 

It's a 97 Impreza Brighton coupe, 2.2 144k with an auto. I've had it for 2 years. It's been in the family since it was a year old. It got hit when new and the wife's sister bought it rebuilt in 98. About 3 years ago it got pelted by hail, and there's bondo cracking open on the driver's quarter, but hey- it's a work car!

 

I've driven it every day for the last two years and for the last few months about 500-700 miles a week. One day it just started acting up. It almost felt like the tranny would make the car jerk hard every once in a while. I thought it was a tranny thing. Then when backing out of a parking space it died. It's NEVER died on me before. Drove about an hour towards home and it really started acting up. As long I as I could keep in the gas, it would buck and jerk a little but keep on running. If I let off the gas, as if coming to a light, it will die and be a bear to start.

 

It's been intermittent. I can start it right now drive it a few miles maybe and it might be fine. Seems like it does it more when it's hot maybe. Hard to say. I haven't driven it much since it's started cause I don't want to get stranded and have to tow it. But that seems to be when it acts up. I've got 10 acres and I've started it and run it up to the barn and back several times and it's been fine. But I drove it into town the other day and it gave me all kinds of hell after I got about 8 miles from the house. It sat while I got a haircut, I drove it home without a problem. I'm leaning in the direction of maybe the fuel pump. Maybe once it gets warm or hot it's not working properly. But I've read about some fuel pump controller or maybe an air flow meter? Twice the AT TEMP light has came on and flashed for a few seconds then went out. But the second time it happened, the car had only been running a few minutes. So I think perhaps has nothing to do with it?

 

 

Ok, now for my worry about the wiring harness/plug for the fuel pump. My father in law told me that there was once something wrong with the plug that plugs into the fuel pump that he couldn't find a new plug and that he "rigged" it. So, when I hear this I go looking expecting to find a ball of electrical tape and wires. But there's not. Nothing looks rigged He doesn't live close so he can't look and tell me what he did, and without seeing it he can't remember just exactly what it was he did do! When I unplugged it, the end of the plug -on the wire end, not the tank side,..one of the wire connectors looked "different" than the others. The plastic around it looked brown. Obviously it's not normal. But with the car in park and it idling, I pushed and pulled on the plug and wires a little bit hoping to get some reaction, but didn't. It idled fine. So it might be that, then it might not. Meanwhile I've got a car in my driveway that I can't drive!

 

Since I drive so much for work, it might be time to start looking for a car.

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ok the running problem is easy. Its the ignitor, I have had a few of those go on me and the first one in a GL drove me up the wall. Same problems till it finally died.

 

I guarentee you the ignitor is going bad (when it goes bad car wont run anymore). This is an electronic widget, hence why it fails more when the car is hot (actually its the electrics that get hot). That can even drive you more nuts in diagnosing it. The ignitor wont always trip a CEL.

Its not the fuel pump, not anything else. All the other thigs you mentioned would trip a code and wouldnt make the car run one time and not the next so intimittently

 

 

nipper

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I guarentee you the ignitor is going bad (when it goes bad car wont run anymore). This is an electronic widget

 

nipper

 

 

Ok, help me out. I'm a newbie. What's the ignitor, where's it at? and can I buy one at Advance or Autozone? And is it something that I, with slightly below average mechanical skills can change?

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Ok, help me out. I'm a newbie. What's the ignitor, where's it at? and can I buy one at Advance or Autozone? And is it something that I, with slightly below average mechanical skills can change?

 

yes yes yes and maybe. Your going to have to wait till tomorrow for more detailed answer. im recovering from a back surjury, and right now to get to the manual i need help, and help is asleep right now. What it is is a signal amplifier (not like that helps you) and it fires the coils. This is a common failure. but also its a part that tends to get replaced once in the cars life. It is easy to get to, but i would suggest that you get a haynes manual for your car, as i have one for the legacy. Operation and diagnises is the same, but i dont know if the location is the same or not.

 

nipper

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I cannot find a manual for this car. Nowhere. Not even on the net! I went to the "ravens...something" website and looked at a technical .pdf about th ignition system which said the ignitor was placed by itself on the firewall of earlier cars and later cars was incorporated into the coil pack on the top of the motor. The picture it gave looked an awful lot like the thing on the top of my car that the four plug wires plug into. Sounds more expensive than one on the firewall too. Just my luck.

 

I wish I did have a manual. Seems like I've found them up to 95 or 96, but nothing for 97. I think I even went to the Haynes site.

 

Sorry about the back. For goodness sake don't get up on my account!!! Thanks

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HEY! i just noticed something .... has nothing to do with the topic at all..

 

 

under my name is Subaru Master .... aww:headbang:

thank You who ever did that im not a Master at it, i screw up and can be a bit pigheaded, but i admit it :)

 

 

nipper

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Try this

 

https://www.mail.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ej22t/28

 

Other item that could cause the intermittant issues is the MAF sensor. Mine would stall stumble and lose power at times. It didn't leave a code.

 

However the ignitor is probably going to be cheaper to replace then the MAF, so unless you can get a cheap MAF, you may want to start with the ignitor.

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I checked today and could find nothing like ignitor on the ravensblade website on the firewall of my 97 2.2 So, it must be integrated into the coil.

Just my luck too 'cause I bet it's a lot more expensive that way!!

 

The sure way to find out is call a dealers part department and ask them.

 

Also if your going to post a picture, take a shot of the firewall, where we can help you. For some reason you dont want to give me your email addy, and i cant post the picture of the part since it is a pdf file, so the ony way i can show you what it looks like is by email. Otherwise im going to stop responding to this thread.

 

 

nipper

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For some reason you dont want to give me your email addy, and i cant post the picture of the part since it is a pdf file, so the ony way i can show you what it looks like is by email. Otherwise im going to stop responding to this thread.nipper

 

 

I don't recall you asking for my email. Don't bother.

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You do have the newer coil pack, and I'm pretty sure the ignitor is integrated into it.

 

Here are the lowest priced coil packs I could find on the net. Of course, I didn't bother with Subaru as I figure they would be more expensive than most anywhere. Not of lot of places carry the coil pack for 97 and 98 2.2s. NAPA had it for $164. Then I found these, with two under $100.

 

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=190&ptset=A&searchfor=Coil

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Excuse me :-\

 

 

Those two plug wires on the right side of the coil in the picture are not stock items. Those on the left look correct, though.

 

Maybe that's the problem? Wrong resistance? Or broken internal cracks in the wires cause they are bent the wrong way to fit a car they don't match?

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Excuse me :-\

 

 

Those two plug wires on the right side of the coil in the picture are not stock items. Those on the left look correct, though.Maybe that's the problem? Wrong resistance? Or broken internal cracks in the wires cause they are bent the wrong way to fit a car they don't match?

 

I never thought about it. Wouldn't hurt to change them any way.

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I never thought about it. Wouldn't hurt to change them any way.

 

 

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=BAR&mfrpartnumber=1756124&parttype=5004&ptset=A

 

 

This set of wires has two that have the elbows on them too. Wonder why?

 

I don't believe the ones on my car would be the wrong resistance, just because it ran fine with them on their for such a long time.

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