stevecd Posted March 1, 2006 Author Share Posted March 1, 2006 sighok you have a bad caliper. As the caliper get hot metal expands. As the metal expands things are binding. The slider on your caliper is hanging up due to rust crud or whatever. The calpier slider can be cleaned and lubricated. i recomend all four be done. The brake line price is very high, i bet you went to the dealer and not an autoparts store. Also ask yourself, is your life (or somone elses) worth the cost of new brake lines? Others here may have a better source for brake lines. nipper nipper thanks for the info, the lubrication I used wasn't made especially made for the brake slider so I will buy some that is and do it to all four calipers. not sure if this helps but i also want to buy everything i need for a timing belt job so if i could get a multidiscount i would go for that btw i only want oem stuff and I don't mind paying for it as long as its a "good deal". ~Stevecd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dxrflyboy Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 Pull the caliper off and try to push the piston back with a c-clamp, large channelocks, or whatever you have to retract it without damaging anything. If the piston won't go in, open the bleeder screw. If the piston goes in with the bleeder screw open, the hose is blocked. If it doesn't the caliper is seized and needs to be replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 that too. And if you buy name brand, most the time that is where OE stuff comes from, just re packaged. It is not necassary to buy OE for things like hoses. Alot of the guys here replace the OE brake lines with Braided Steel Hose, which is far superior to OE hoses. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 Most brake grease is silicone-based, because it withstands high temperatures and is compatible with rubber parts. Petroleum-based greases can swell and otherwise deteriorate certain rubber and plastic parts. Of course, be certain not to get any on pads/rotors. Flushing a brake system is not the same as bleeding it. The intent isn't just to get rid of air, but to remove "crud" as well. When flushing, don't stop just because there are no longer any bubbles visible, but keep going until what is coming out is as clear as the new fluid being poured into the master cylinder. Be careful when using a clamp or other tool to push back caliper pistons. If a piston is pushed back more than a small fraction of an inch while the bleed screw is still closed, any contaminants can be forced into the brake lines; if enough contaminated fluid is forced backwards, it can even get into the ABS hydraulics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAWalker Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 So have you ever check the parking brakes to see if they are working right and properly adjusted? Shoes adjusted to tight, parking brake cables hanging up? A dragging parking brake can (have seen it happen) cause enough heat to boil the brake fluid. When brake fluid boils, peddle goes to the floor, you have no brakes, like a bad master cylinder. And if the brake fluid is really old the water content is higher (brake fluid absorbes water) and it will boil at a lower temp. This is why Subaru recommends replacing brake fluid every 30k miles. Seems you have started by replacing the most expensive part of the brake system before checking the basics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevecd Posted March 1, 2006 Author Share Posted March 1, 2006 well i did check the little things first before replacing the mc like the piston does go back in with the bleeder screw open however i haven't tried to push it in while it was closed so i will try that after i get the brake lubracient, i'll try to check the park brake again but it seems ok but i'll get some lubracient for that also. thanks for all the help. might have to find some braided steel hose since i would rather have that. ~Stevecd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevecd Posted March 11, 2006 Author Share Posted March 11, 2006 So have you ever check the parking brakes to see if they are working right and properly adjusted? Shoes adjusted to tight, parking brake cables hanging up? A dragging parking brake can (have seen it happen) cause enough heat to boil the brake fluid. When brake fluid boils, peddle goes to the floor, you have no brakes, like a bad master cylinder. And if the brake fluid is really old the water content is higher (brake fluid absorbes water) and it will boil at a lower temp. This is why Subaru recommends replacing brake fluid every 30k miles. Seems you have started by replacing the most expensive part of the brake system before checking the basics. Well I feel stupid replacing the master cylinder and finding it not to be the problem but I noticed another thing after adjusting the rear brakes and regresse everything. it seemed to work at least for 4 days and then it did it again, this time I jacked up the car and while spinning the wheel noticed a scraping sound as if it was touching and letting go. first thought it to be the brake pads on the rotor but took the pads off and it was still there and found it to be the brake shoe’s against the rotor and after spending tons of time tiring to adjust it fix it i could not stop the sound. So do you guys think the problem is with a bad shoe or rotor maybe? Again thanks for the help guys and info let me know if you want any more details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distance Commuter Posted March 11, 2006 Share Posted March 11, 2006 ...I jacked up the car and while spinning the wheel noticed a scraping sound as if it was touching and letting go...So do you guys think the problem is with a bad shoe or rotor maybe?... Maybe a bad shoe or rotor, as you suggested. Or maybe a wheel bearing problem. Repack bearing grease or replace? Most cars have an inner and outer bearing set @ each wheel. I think it's a near-miracle that wheel bearings don't self destruct within a mile or so. They take a lot of use/abuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevecd Posted March 11, 2006 Author Share Posted March 11, 2006 Maybe a bad shoe or rotor, as you suggested. Or maybe a wheel bearing problem. Repack bearing grease or replace? Most cars have an inner and outer bearing set @ each wheel. I think it's a near-miracle that wheel bearings don't self destruct within a mile or so. They take a lot of use/abuse. I ruled out the wheel bearing also since after I took the rotor off the sound went completely away, so I wonder if its normal or maybe the rotor is out of round or something, I’m sure its messed up no matter what since it been so hot but maybe it was what caused the problem also. It sounds like the rotor has a bump or something and the shoe hits that spot every rotation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevecd Posted March 13, 2006 Author Share Posted March 13, 2006 While going up to school i had it happen again this time i noticed it right away since my rpms rose and my car felt "slow". anyways i got the idea of pulling my ebrake about half way up and releasing it really quick. anyways to make a long story short it did the trick and i was driving like normal again. anyways i guess i found a temp. solution if anyone is interested, just now i gotta find out how to stop it for good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted March 13, 2006 Share Posted March 13, 2006 While going up to school i had it happen again this time i noticed it right away since my rpms rose and my car felt "slow". anyways i got the idea of pulling my ebrake about half way up and releasing it really quick. anyways to make a long story short it did the trick and i was driving like normal again. anyways i guess i found a temp. solution if anyone is interested, just now i gotta find out how to stop it for good. Have you replaced the hardware in the Parking brake (springs and retainers) inside the drum. Hardware gets tired over time and needs to be replaced. Culd be the heat from normal braking is causing the springs to yeild and the shoes to drag. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevecd Posted March 13, 2006 Author Share Posted March 13, 2006 Have you replaced the hardware in the Parking brake (springs and retainers) inside the drum. Hardware gets tired over time and needs to be replaced. Culd be the heat from normal braking is causing the springs to yeild and the shoes to drag. nipper I haven't replaced anything for the parking brake yet, i think i will try to go to the junk yard this week and get a bunch of stuff to see if it does anything different i'm sure everything needs to be replaced in the assembly since its been through so much. If anyone knows of a kit of stuff to buy I would buy it or know part numbers. I also need to replace the dust boot that protects the piston since the one on my car is literally burnet and is cracking apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted March 13, 2006 Share Posted March 13, 2006 I haven't replaced anything for the parking brake yet, i think i will try to go to the junk yard this week and get a bunch of stuff to see if it does anything different i'm sure everything needs to be replaced in the assembly since its been through so much. If anyone knows of a kit of stuff to buy I would buy it or know part numbers. I also need to replace the dust boot that protects the piston since the one on my car is literally burnet and is cracking apart. NONONONONO Bad Biped no biscuit. NEW hardware. NEW springs and retainers. You may be able to get this from a autoparts store, but you will prbbly have to go to sooby. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevecd Posted March 13, 2006 Author Share Posted March 13, 2006 NONONONONO Bad Biped no biscuit. NEW hardware. NEW springs and retainers. You may be able to get this from a autoparts store, but you will prbbly have to go to sooby. nipper lol i guess i'll try the napa, anyways once i replace everything ill let you guys know if it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevecd Posted April 9, 2006 Author Share Posted April 9, 2006 lol i guess i'll try the napa, anyways once i replace everything ill let you guys know if it works. Well I had to order the springs from Subaru since no part stores carry them. The part numbers if you want to order new springs for your parking brake for one side is, 2 of 26265aa040 "spring bk shoe" 2 of 26265pa010 "spring s" and 1 of 26265aa071 "spring adj" and I'm guessing those parts are the same for all 90-94 Legacy's with 4 wheel disk brakes. Anyways hopefully that fixes the problem yet I'm not to optimistic the next thing on the list is brake hoses. thanks for you help everyone and hope this thread is useful for others with the same problem. ~Stevecd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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