I'm in the middle of the engine & trans removal on my '98 OBW (AWD) and trying to remove the front axles. Already have the spring pins out. I pulled the BJ pinch bolt out of each spindle (and sprayed with WD40), but I can't get the ball joint and spindle to separate (even with a big pry bar). Do I just pop off the lower ball joint nut and try to pop it out of the control arm? Is that any easier? I really don't want to chance ruining the dust boot. Hopefully tomorrow it will come out after soaking all night. All I really need is one side to pop, once that axle is out I can shift the trans over to get the other.

 

Any ideas appreciated,

Steve H.:-\

I'm guessing you did relieve the torsion of the anti-roll bar by disconnecting it at one of the hubs, didn't you?

I did release one side, and I just went out to give it a good spray of PB Blaster. I'll try again in the morning. If that doesn't work, I'll go another route. Next would be either the ball joint to control arm, the 2 strut bolts (and tie rod), or maybe one of the control arm bushing bolts (front I think).

 

Thanks,

Steve H.

I'm in the middle of the engine & trans removal on my '98 OBW (AWD) and trying to remove the front axles. Already have the spring pins out. I pulled the BJ pinch bolt out of each spindle (and sprayed with WD40), but I can't get the ball joint and spindle to separate (even with a big pry bar). Do I just pop off the lower ball joint nut and try to pop it out of the control arm? Is that any easier? I really don't want to chance ruining the dust boot. Hopefully tomorrow it will come out after soaking all night. All I really need is one side to pop, once that axle is out I can shift the trans over to get the other.

 

Any ideas appreciated,

Steve H.:-\

 

First of all, just replace your ball joints anyways. They're not too old, but they're cheap to repalce, and you're already removing them.

 

Second, I just did my ball joints, and employed a couple of tricks to get them out of the knuckle. Remove the cotter pin on the base of the balljoint stud. Now loosen the castle nut, and back it off. But make sure it's still well attached, only that it WILL come off when you're ready. Then I'd suggest removing the bolt that connects the sway bar and end-link. with this out of the way, the control arm is free to drop down.

 

With a pry bar, position the end between the knuckle and the control arm, and pry down on the control arm. If this does not work, I;d also suggest trying the following. Get a piece of metal rod or pipe about 3/4" or thicker and place it upright against the control arm near the ball joint. Then use a heavy hammer, preferably 3 lbs (I used a 5 lb sledge:grin: ) and giver a whack or five. Should come out of the knuckle nicely. To get it out of the control arm remove the castle nut and try whacking it on the base with the hammer. Probably won't work, then try smacking it on the top with the hammer (hey, you're replacing it anyways, right? ). Should knock it out or at least loose, then try whacking the bottom again.

 

You can also use a pickle fork to get it out of the control arm too.

 

BTW, get some real penetration fluid, not WD40. I use liquid wrench, I hear PB blaster is good (not available in Canada I think).l

 

 

Good luck!

I;d also suggest trying the following. Get a piece of metal rod or pipe about 3/4" or thicker and place it upright against the control arm near the ball joint. Then use a heavy hammer, preferably 3 lbs (I used a 5 lb sledge:grin: ) and giver a whack or five. Should come out of the knuckle nicely.

That was the method i used to get the ball joint out of the knuckle and it worked fairly easily and i used a 3lb hammer and a 2x4 if dont have a metal rod or pipe.

if the ball joint still moves through its motion smoothly and the boot isn't cracked, try taking the ball joint out of the control arm instead.

I bet it was 25 years ago that I bought my pickle fork. I won't say it was the best investment I've ever made, but it sure has saved me a lot of aggravation over the years.

Pickle fork to the rescue.... was able to get the ball joint separated from the control arm (once I got the cotter pin out (in 6 pcs.)). I did try prying with a large prybar as well as hammering on a large pipe vertically onto the control arm - nothing budging either way.

 

Thanks for all of the ideas.

 

Steve H.