Has anyone seen or heard about a bolt on supercharger kit for the ej22? i read about it somewhere a while ago but i forgot where.

 

i was thinking about using the ej22 stroked to 2.5 and supercharged in my brumby when i lift it and get the bigger tyres.

on www.nasioc.com/ there is a guy with a supercharged legacy wagon named reddevil. he has a pretty good write up on his setup. good luck with the build, sounds interesting.

i read remember reading about a supercharger manifacturer making a bolt on kit. but i cant remenber where i read about it

anyone make a supercharger for ea81????

i found these links on nasioc.com

http://www.hotkey.net.au/~shatteredfx/reaperscsystems.html

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=605625&page=1&pp=25&highlight=supercharged+legacy

the prices on that first page look a little outrageous to me though....

hope those help.

Do searches for "rimmer supercharger"

 

They are out of production, were not reliable, and are hard to find.

Someone who bought one had to take the kit to a machine shop to have it shaved down to be at the same angle as the rest of the block so it wouldn't thow belts.

 

2 styles:

Mounted along one head, piped to the manifold and driven by the accesory belt off to the side. Reddevil is a member of this board and has this style built himself using a mercedes electic clutched M62

 

Mounted under the intake spyder, pully where the alternator used to be. Custom manifold feeding the heads. The style I will be building for my EJ22. Lot more work, but i think it looks much better and should preform well.

 

Electric clutches make s/c easier, in that the engine is only being stuffed when you want it to be. Unfortunately for me, my M62 is straight drive, so the only controll I have is a vacuum opperated bypass valve. I will be dumping boost any time the clutch is pushed in, which is an attempt to drop the torque being applied to my EA82 5sp, which are not known for being the strongest. I will also have my bypass hooked up so that the pushbutton 4wd switch will operate the vacuum motor for the bypass.

 

Water injection can help keep combustion temps from getting out of contoll and prevent detonation. Some good methods are out, most expensive. One low budget method used the jet pump theory to pump water into the intake using the boost pressure.

 

Belt drives:

Serpintine longitudinal grooved. works well, but you have to have idlers to get the maximum wrap around the S/C pully and the crank pully. Other wise it will slip and you will loose boost.

 

Cog belts: (timing belt style) will not slip, so boost stays constant. Drawback is that if the engine backfires, it will strip the belt. Eaton S/C's have a plastic pin that is supposed to shear inside the gear drive to save the rotors in case of backfire. PITA to replace once everything is installed.

Theres a dude in NZ I think with a Supercharged EA81(?) on LPG. His mostly on AUSubaru. Forgot his name tho Steve at "Rising Sun" (here in Adelaide) has a MPFI EA82 with modded intake manifold with a carb(?) and supercharger. I think his helped someone supercharge a EJ, but I'm not to sure.

ME!

 

The puzzle is still not complete.

 

I have one grainy photo of his old donk,

His was also EJ22 and the pumps (1GG toyota) are identical.

Its just the differences in layout between a liberty and a Brumby in the mounting layout.

 

I am still working on it, its just the Wonder Brumby is going so damn well at the moment, I hesitate to mess with it. (engine wise that is).

 

The problems he had with detonation and pinging will be eliminated by feeeding it on LPG.

 

I am currently getting an experimental distributor made up which will retard under boost instead of advancing.

 

Read the Redevils whole saga. Its worth it.

Theres a dude in NZ I think with a Supercharged EA81(?) on LPG. His mostly on AUSubaru. Forgot his name tho

 

LPGSuperchargedBrumby is his name

Posting in this thread yesterday got me inspired. I went down to try and clean some of the carbon off of my supercharger using carb cleaner. Now, carb cleaner doesn't just evaporate without a trace, and all the carbon it washes off puddles with it. So, if you are distracted by dinner, sleep and school, the puddle of carb and gunk in the bottom of the s/c sets up and locks the darn thing. Tight. So now I have to figure out how to free it. Oh well...

This is my supercharger:

 

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/Beav/5073.gif

 

However, mine is not on an svx motor, and it will have belt drive, not invisible force fields turning the s/c

 

 

It's off of a buick park avenue ultra 3.8l. should move enough for a 2.2 i think.

I think you're confused. That picture is obviously a low-profile laser cannon.

Current setup. I installed a ported manifold and FMIC.

 

 

Wow reddevil. That FMIC looks great. Will we see it again at this years WCSS?

 

-Brian

OH yeah baby!

 

My kids are amped to get back up there and cause more stress to more parents!

 

And I doubt that I will blow this motor up. Damn.....

 

I am actually hoping to have the wiring cleaned up this time. And if I get lucky, the second supercharger mounted as well.

 

Your AWIC belongs to someone in Washington now, and the pump belongs to Vicash.

hehe ya your supercharger set up is awesome reddevil!

 

i was wondering why your car was so awesome at wcss8 and why it hauled so much arse! lol i also wondered why it spat carbon gunk all over my parents 01 white legacy rear bumper after being parked behind you for a couple hours... (rev rev rev...):-p

 

a sweet car none the less!

I will be installing a skid plate.....

 

Not for the oil pan....

 

But damn that IC hits ************!

 

I slammed it into my driveway tonight! Biff! Wasnt horrible, but I now have incentive to make one.

 

I am going to order a sheet of 3/16" aluminium, cut to size, have it bent at a sheet metal shop at the right spots, and then install some various other parts on it to protect the side hoses and what not. Or so goes the plan.

 

I am going to order a sheet of 3/16" aluminium, cut to size, have it bent at a sheet metal shop at the right spots, and then install some various other parts on it to protect the side hoses and what not. Or so goes the plan.

 

I would recommend 5052 H32 aluminum alloy vs. 6061 T6 or T4. At that thickness 6061 needs a lot bigger bend radius to prevent cracking along the bend. My chart on this is at work but if I remember right 5052 needs a radius of about 1-1/2 the materal thickness where 6061 needs about 2-1/2. I'll try to look this up tomarrow.

get the people who are cutting and bending your alloy to anneal it along where it needs to be bent, then you can use 6061 T6 rather than the softer 5052