Some newer cars DO have a syncronized reverse, not because it's cheaper or it helps gears last longer, but so owners aren't worried or don't complain about reverse gear grinding.

Here are a few cars/ transmissions with synchronized reverse:

Mazda RKE 88-95 Thunderchicken SC, Cougar

Mazda MR51, MR52, various year Ford rangers

Mitsubishi FM145, ford rangers again

Audi TT's

Borg-Warner T56 6 speed

gbhrps I Redlined my OB trans, diff and p/s. A whole new ballgame now particularly when cold.

My Liberty does the same thing although i will have to try the second gear thing, We have a ford/nissan patrol, suv that had syncro on reverse.

It occured to me that one way to test for hydraulic problem would be to depress the clutch several time before selecting reverse. If it does go into reverse easily then it means that you have a hydraulic problem.

MTX transmission on Ford Transits (uk Van) had synchros on reverse 10 years ago.

 

My MX-5 Miata has synchroed reverse. No crunching engaging below 20 miles per hour, errrrrr just don't ask. 150k miles and transmission still in one piece.

ditto on the mt-90. it seems this is the best stuff to use in sube manual trannys. tried mobil-1, redline 75w-90NS. too slick, not enough syncro. use mtl in 95 corolla transaxle even though it is a lighter viscosity, no prob, car just turned 180k miles. mt-90 for the sube: no other, except maybe an amsoil product.

You might want to clearly explain how much a replacement transmission costs, and the fact that if bits of chipped (ground up) gears get into the oil, the fact that the transmission could self destruct randomly on the highway at any time.

 

"Honey, do you really want us to be stranded on the highway then stuck with a $4000 repair bill ? If you agree with this, then what you do is simply press the clutch, count to three, THEN put it in reverse. Agreed ?"

 

Make the woman see sense. If she still doesn't get it, a used Corolla auto shouldn't run more than $8000 for something decent.

I'm too lazy to go through 4 pages of posts, but has anyone suggested checking the clutch adjustment? Not enough pedal play will result in not dis-engaging the clutch completely and cause crunching; since reverse is the lowest gear ratio it will crunch earliest; as the adjustment goes out more, 1st gear will start to crunch also. I can't believe it's good for the gearbox. Check the adjustment and get it done if it needs it. Easy to do if you've never done it. It'll take you 5 minutes or less. Also, as far as Redline is concerned, I'm using 75W-90NS in my Brat; the NS should help the old synchos work better in the forward gears. (PS: If you have a hydraulic actuator, I'm not sure if there's an adjustment).