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the gr-2's (from visual observation) are identical to oem. the problem you'll run into (as did I) is that if you order from tire rack, the fronts did not include the tab to secure the abs wire and i was not about to use zip ties as they had suggested. order from jason at auburn sube and you'll get a pretty fair price in mid-80's each. 99 leg l sedan 5mt 2.2l

99 leg l sedan 5m 85k miles. not slipping yet and probably 50/50 city-highway. but, 21 yo original owner till 55k miles.

would have to look up the bleed sequence but have used the motive products bleeder on a 928, corolla and 99 leg l sedan 2.2 5mt. the german cars have a screw-on master cyl cap, the japs just are a cap, so the product uses a couple of small chains on some j-hooks to hold the device to the top of the master cyl. the unit holds plenty of fluid, 2-4 qts, not sure. first, test the seal by pumping the tank tp 10 psi. that is all you use. if good seal, unscrew pump from tank, fill, pump to 10 psi and start loosening bleeder screws. have a catch bottle (8 oz oj/plastic) and some small tubing. it works and is worth the $$. i got the kit with 3 attachments including for american vehicles and it was like $80-100. you need one!

lemme tell you about subaru seats -- they stink. on long trips you'll arrive with a dislocated right hip. i'm now experimenting with a piece of 2" foam cut inside of the side bolsters and about 3-4" back of the thigh support. since foam will degrade and marr the seats with direct contact, it is contained within the packing plastic bag that it came in. this is a real jerry rig but the other choice is some nice aftermarket seats -- at least the driver's side! the seats are too thin in width, the mid-40's rear end was not considered by the 6-sigma design group. this problem really is a PITA. 99 leg l sedan 2.2l 5mt 30th anniv

hey a97obw, great pic of the sep plate. what are the two "dowels" at the bottom of the engine? i see a pin about midway up on the right side. also, does anyone have part numbers for the plastic and aluminum plate in order to determine whether it is on a particular car? the sube parts listing may just show the superceded part number to the alum part. thanks 99 leg l sedan 2.2l 5M 30th anniv.

it's funny, you don't know you need wheel bearings until you go for an alignment. no noise, no problems. pull the hub assy's and deliver them to a shop with a press. someone will give you torque specs for re-assy. depending on miles you're probably due for shocks, ball joints and outer tie-rod ends. my estimate: 50 each for bearings, 50 total to install, 75 each for shocks, 50 each for ball joints, 50 each for tie ends, plus 75 for an alignment. your bill: ouch.

did you have to tilt the engine rearward in order to gain clearance to slide the tranny off? how much distance between tranny and engine before it broke free? my only reference point is a clutch change on a 91 zr1, this looks to be a little more complicated.

what's being missed here is that the packed up snow/ice can smash out the plastic splashguards contained in the wheelwells either when turning or bottoming out. it will dust the plastic push-pins as well. no good solution other than close monitoring at fuel stops etc.

have you removed your old tranny, if so, how difficult was it? i may have to do a clutch on mine and the thought is just dreadful... 99 leg l sedan 2.2l 5M 30th anniv.

my 99 leg l sedan 2.2l 5M 30th anniv is a cal emission car and was originally sold in oregon. it does not have a maf sensor. it has a map/speed density sensor like a 92 vette. also, the airbox intake system is less convoluted as some i've seen. imagine that: a more desireable system on a california car. i backed into some good luck.

friend got in over his head and i told him i would go to the oracle for an answer. he's got an 03 baja and it has a shimmy from the rear upon brake application. he got the caliper out of the way and also removed the cv axle bolt but then got flustered and quit. question is: how is rotor removed from this point? he said there were some threaded holes where i guessed that some bolts could be inserted to push the rotor out. of course, he doesn't have metric bolts of proper length etc. i wonder is this setup like some hondas where the entire control arm has to be removed due to inside-mounted disc mount bolts? i'm not too sure about that though as i assume that there is an e-brake assembly behind there. it's not really my problem but i volunteered to attempt an inquiry. any quick answers guys?

i bought a factory carpet for my 99 leg l sedan 2.2 5M 30th anniv and it was about $300 plus. there was a part number on the old one too. there are some small plastic tabs on the sides that anchor it underneath the plastic door sill plates. don't just pull on the edges of the carpet to remove: carefully pry up the plastic door sill plates (they don't have to be completely removed) so you can release these plastic tabs. if you find the part number is unavailable you don't want to have pulled against these plastic tabs as the carpet may rip and you'll be up SC. careful on putting the front seats in too, I got one scuff by being a *********************. oops. also put in fresh speakers all around. yeah buddy.

can't help on the mechanic, but if yer heading through cathedral city you might stop to eat at el gallito for some of the freshest mex you've ever had. there's also a huge strip joint nearby although i've forgotten the name and street.

you may be right about that badge thing: my 99 leg l sedan 30th 2.2 5m has the badge and a build date of 12-98.

hey lawson, what kind of iron is your girl slingin' around?

if that combo works for you, i would have to say that you are a brilliant rugged individualist. i used to blend fork oil in a 90 katana 1100. honestly, manually trannys are somewhat finicky, i used mtl in a 90 zr-1 without any ill problems. these sube trannys seem very prone to gear clash and the mt-90 was the only stuff that cleared it up. mobil-1 and the other redline products did NOT solve the problem. tranny has 80k mi on it and i suspect PO did a lot of highway driving. clutch seems to be ok with slight judder only when extremely cold. we just changed out 92 ranger plow truck to mt-90 and it seems to have helped with worn 1-2 syncro. YMMV, of course.

the fact that mt-90 is a gl-4 doesn't matter a FF to me. i go by what works for the application. i have tried all the common synths in the 5mt and the mt-90 has the lowest gear clash. when you guys stop worrying about the label and use a lube that solves the problem, you will be set free. btw, i used mtl (a lighter grade of mt-90) for 210,000 mi in a 95 corolla transaxle over a 10 year period (even though the label called for a 75w-90) without any dire effect. to each, their own. go out and test everything out there, i know you'll eventually come home to mt-90.

try MT-90. the 75-90 and NS are way to slippery to allow syncros to properly slow down. it's a shame to see this issue come up time after time. once and for all, the MT-90 is the way to go.

stalling at idle could be a fuel blockage or vacuum hose issue, but, i would check the battery strength as it could be low and not enough voltage to power the computer. this was an issue for me on an old POS 928 that i would occasionally drive in the winter. snapped the headlights on to check operation of the motor and BLAHHHH to the side of the road. check the obvious first and don't pay that $1,100. i agree, no code equals coil packs ok. as an easy deal, spray out your pcv valve with some carb cleaner, this could affect vacuum but it's a shot in the dark. btw, i've got a 99 leg l sedan 2.2l 5m and have not ever had this experience. you'll eventually find what's wrong.

had this code, usually popped when lugging uphill in 5th gear. dealer replaced both cats under fed emission warranty (80k?). no more codes. original 02 sensors. it's your cats man. if your out off warranty try a boneyard.99 leg l sedan 2.2l 5m 30th anniv.

my 99 leg l sedan 5-sp ej-22 cal emissions uses speed density for airflow monitoring, it does not use a maf sensor. build date 12/98.

i have a 99 leg l sedan 30 anniv 2.2 5-sp. this is really an interesting vehicle considering the "hybrid" type engine and the last year of this body style. anyhow, your clutch will go for at least another 1000 miles after it starts slipping, so long as you take it easy on it. btw, stay out of overdrive. you probably know a slipping clutch creates heat. if you drive it for long with this condition plan on a new or boneyard flywheel as imho it will warp or overheat and be fubar'd even with a new disc and pressure plate. find a good factory shop and pay the franklins to let someone else handle the job. it can be done on a garage floor (did a zr-1 like that) but you have to remove driveline, exhaust, loosen engine mounts to tilt engine rearward etc. if you don't mind challenges give it a shot. i know my limits, i am getting too old to roll on the floor to mess with a job like this. others might disagree, but i'm no longer a "hero". fortunately i'm at 72k miles and won't need a clutch for a while.

check out "super rupair" in boulder. i don't know their triple-dub, google them, they have a site, sell cars, repair cars, and have lots of used parts. a friend bought a used abs sensor for $25. sounded reasonable to me.

use redline mt-90. when 2nd best just ain't good enough.

you too, buy a new speedo. this is common for 99my. a c-note will solve yer problem.