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i had the same code. dealer replaced both cats under fed 6yr/80k emissions warranty. your dealer will have a printout of the in-service date if you are not the first owner. this one was on subaru, at least for me. would have been a $1200 repair ticket. see if they'll honor this warranty. the code, incidentally, was a cat low bank efficiency. 99 leg l sedan 2.2l 5-sp 25th anniv burgundy

yo, bro, you are spinning the joint in the housing. try coaxing a floor jack up underneath the ball joint or tie-rod end or what ever it is you are toiling with to put some pressure on it to stop the spinning and the bolt should then be removable. this is very common. if you can't get to it from the bottom with a jack, use a c-clamp or something from above to put some pressure on the joint. you'll get it loose at some point.

try a new thermostat first before you go tearing the engine apart. sure sounds like a corroded thermo, they can grime up and stick if coolant not changed regularly. had the same problem in a 92 bronco that used green coolant. yup, it was a corroded mess. easy to change and also cheap. good luck.

same deal, my a/c cycles on and off more than other cars i've owned. it's also not very cool when cycled "off". had pressure tested and it's ok. mech said "just the way it is". in my old and now gone 81 928 i did a 134a conversion and that thing would freeze the evaporator after about an hour or so. simply turned off the compressor, left the blower fan on, and 5 minutes later she thawed out then turned compressor back on. gotta luv it.

just go to the motive products website and get a pump bottle with the japanese master cylinder adapter. prob about $50 for the tank and pump and another $10-15 for the adapter. works like a dream. pressurize to 10 psi and open the brake bleeders with a tube and catch-can attached. this way, you don't break loose any junk in the master cylinder by pumping it full stroke to the floor.

dino oil... what a concept! it's all about what works for you. opinions will vary.

sorry to have to take the other side of this, BUT, i do use mt-90 in my manual tranny, and mobil 1 75-90 in the rear diff. (could use redline 75-90 but have a case of m1 to burn through) i tried redline 75-90NS in the tranny and it had shiftability problems just the same as when i used the mobil 1 75-90 in the tranny. it really matters not to me that it is a gl-4, it works the best. btw, i use redline mtl in my transaxle of 95 corolla since new and it is a gl-4 and it has 180k miles on it with better synchronization than the sube. not trying to be belligerant here, i just found from experience what works the best. the mt-90 really smooths out the 2nd to 1st downshift, ie: you don't have to come to an almost complete stop to make the shift. i think you'll need slightly more than 3 qts though. also, for the record, i used mtl in manual zf trannys on 92 vette zo-7 and 91 zr-1 and had no problems at all period. 99 leg l sedan 2.2l 5-sp anniv edition 75k miles

i used radiator.com for my 95 corolla, it was about a buck and a quarter.

i got the phase 2.

yo corsair, i think mine is a late 98 manufacture too, i'll check that. i think emission status is part of the inquiry too. just visit your dealer and get a printout from them and ask a mechanic some questions.the only thing that gets my goat are buzzy heatshields at about 24-2600 rpms. car has about 75k miles on it. haven't done timing belt or any front engine work yet. manual says 105k on timing belt. no leaks, i'll just wait and see, probably do it after another winter season or two. oh, i did replace the two drive belts and all of the heater, bypass, and radiator hoses. of course, there are two small formed hoses (the size of fuel hoses) that bring hot coolant through the throttle body, subaru has discontinued then. can you believe that, after 5 years? car had new potenzas when i bought it. they're ok in the snow, although i did get the car stuck once last winter in about a 1 foot drift at the end of the driveway last winter. manual tranny is real finicky and use redline mt-90 in it, mobil 1 75-90 in rear diff. change your auto tranny fluid and filter regularly to avoid toasting that electric tranny. couldn't be happier, it'll probably blow up on next start, you know how that is! pretty good luck with a lease return vehicle.

well, you know the old saying: "no better friend, no worse enemy."

mine was originally sold in oregon and states california emissions on the underhood decal. the air filter is directly behind the throttle body. the only real problem is that prior numbnuts owner hit something, my guess a dog or something, and front cap need to be removed to replace the plastic push-pins and holders. i thought that all were certified to cal emissions at this model year and i don't know anything about the air filter housing being located on the passenger side. there is some type of plastic intake box there, though. there were phase 1 and 2 2.2l engines, you can get more info in an old article at endwrench.com. see what your underhood decal says regarding emission status. what was manufacture date (month/yr)? obviously the later model run was phase 2. go to sube dealer and have them print out a warranty repair history on your car.

welcome mr. corsair. i got a 99 leg l sedan 2.2 5-sp anniv edition (winestone pearl). is yours anniv too? i could not be more pleased with this model. last of the series and bulletproof like it's no-ones business. plus 30mpg on the highway. it's unfortunate that it's my winter only car and it just gets trashed 5 mo out of the year. how may miles on your sube?

so, am i correct in that it is a closed system with no pressure release? what blows up if you by chance should boil over?

very ingenious. did the pan rot and drop out prior to the install, or did you have to cut it out? (joke hour) i admire your initiative. did you utilize the overflow hole or simply plug it?

triple7, generally a conversion uses 70-75% of the amount of r-12 previously used. don't fill to the same capacity, it will be too much. i'd say that not only is there not enough r134a in there, but there is probably some air in there too. just let an a/c monkey do the vac and fill. btw, how new is your receiver/dryer? i hate giving advice to a captain, just say so if it is out of line:)

thanks gents. i guess i'll get into the owner's and haynes manual and deal with this. thanks again.

99 leg l sedan 2.2 5-sp my trunk release cable does not open the trunk, it did when i bought the car, but i don't think it's tensioned properly. the key works just fine. does anyone know where the adjust points are so that i can take care of this? TIA at least it's not a head gasket...

ditto on the mt-90. it seems this is the best stuff to use in sube manual trannys. tried mobil-1, redline 75w-90NS. too slick, not enough syncro. use mtl in 95 corolla transaxle even though it is a lighter viscosity, no prob, car just turned 180k miles. mt-90 for the sube: no other, except maybe an amsoil product.

p0420? that's sube's code to indicate time for a smoke break! seriously, i had the same code on my 99 leg l sedan 5-sp ej-22 75k miles. the code was set at least 2 times. one time was when the car was somewhat cold, i was accelerating uphill in 5th gear at low rpm's and lugging the engine. dealer replaced both cats under fed emission warranty, 6-yr 80k mile. free. it's obviously bad older cats as all sensors were fine. parts guy said it's happened with other late model cars and that he thinks the cat design has been changed or there was a bad batch or some such other excuse. i don't know if there has been a parts number revision. bill would have been about $1000 for parts alone. thankfully it was warranty covered. what's one to do? good luck.

also, have you noticed the General offering more awd variants? i wonder where they're getting that technology, oh yeah, they BOUGHT it.

as i understand it, the upper bolt is smaller in diameter than the lower, thus enabling the movement of the spindle within the shock bracket, and camber adjustment. i know it's flintstonian, but that's the way it is.

hey, just read usa today that detailed saab-subaru awd vehicle. saab 80% owned by GM and soob 20%. i think this is some dangerous inbreeding, what's next, some kind of smoking 2-cycle engine? once the general gets involved, it's a race to the basement.

hey, i (think) i had that same code (low bank efficiency), it kept setting the cel, sube replaced both cats under fed emissions warranty, 6 yr 80k miles. parts would have been about $1000. 99 leg l sedan, 2.2l 5-sp

i have a 99 leg l sedan 30th anniv w/ a 2.2l 5-sp and am damn glad for that! from what has been a litany of complaints here, i would never own a 2.5l under any circumstances. i have driven a 2.5l equiped car and didn't notice any increase in get-up-and-go over my 2.2l. all at a cost of lower mpg. don't be a chump, either buy the h-6 or caveat emptor. this is my first sube so don't think i'm a basher. i genuinely love the awd but it really won't deal with a blazing blizzard too well or slush for that matter. still, to have the all weather capability with 30 mpg on the highway, i am really pleased with MY car. i just won't mess with anything that has head gasket issues. i just got rid of an old 928 that had a seeping drivers side head gasket. thankfully, that is no longer my problem. i would say either find a nice 2.2l or go with the h-6. if i were advising a family member, it would be the h-6, hands down.