gbrand Posted April 12, 2006 Share Posted April 12, 2006 Ok, replaced clutch about 30K ago, and cable about a monthor so ago. today car will hardly go into gear. First look indicates hill holder does not seem to have enough "oomph" to return clutch fork to "returned' position. Pull on clutch fork, and it will "pop" back to engaged postition. But even with the cable adjusted all the way tight, the car will barely release clutch-car will not move into gear with engine running. Can start engine in gear, and any movemetn of clutch pedal will get car moving-and will continue to move. Temporarily put a return spring on to pull release fork back, but am mystified by onset of symptoms. Rigging a spring and disconnecting hillholder toget proper return action no big deal, but the inability to get the clutch released enough to change gears is the big issue, and a bad time as I am racing time to get my pool rebuilt before a rain-another story. Fort I have spare vehicles-any ideas/ TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted April 14, 2006 Share Posted April 14, 2006 So even with the hill holder removed, the clutch fork won't pop back to where it's supposed to? It's possible one of the clips came off the throw out bearing, and you're not getting the travel required. You can try peaking down the bell housing hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted April 15, 2006 Share Posted April 15, 2006 there is nothing wrong with the hill holder. Weither you have a bad clutch fork, or a throw out bearing problem. COUld be the throw out bearing is cocking and getting stuck. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbrand Posted April 16, 2006 Author Share Posted April 16, 2006 thanks guys-was secretly hoping was not something needed to seperate engine and transmission to fix. Pool re-install turned into nightmare (whole nother story for OT) but back on track-so will not get to Legacy unitl after this weekend-will keep the board posted when I get to it. Thanks again. At least weather cooperating no rain, warm/hot but wind hers at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbrand Posted April 23, 2006 Author Share Posted April 23, 2006 OK-pool in, not in time to use on 100+ days but got pump running 2am sat morning and continued to work on rest of daturday. Pulled Legacy in garage today, and peered down fork hole, sure enough problem visible-portion of clutch fork that pivots on ball stud worn, cracked and ball stud is "Blowing through" the fork. So i need to replace fork. Obviously I want to minimize this job's difficulty, as I have replaced the clutch,PP, TO bearing about 30Kmiles ago. How far do you thnk I need to seperate the trans from engine to do this, aw I remember there are some clips holding the TO beraring holder to something, I think the fork. Any thoughts on not havng to fully disconnect the axles, exhaust, shifter to gain enough room for replacing the fork? I decided at the time for the clutch that pulling the engine was tempting, but definitly looked to be more work. I had a similar situation in my 80 wagion, TO bearing went bad on a relativly new clutch job, think there I moved engine forward after removing radiator to get enough clearence to do job. Thnak in advance, will keep all posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beegeer Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 I just had the same thing on my 98imp. Though it was clutch, nope fork. I replaced my from a ea82 5speed d\r, worked fine. No need to pull cv joints. Exhaust needs to drop, motor needs to come out. I guess you could try the 'no pull and only sepated the trans and motor'. I'd be worried about causeing more damage. Swaping the fork is easy, pull The TO bearing. then there two spring steel clips. hardest part is getting the fork thru the boot... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbrand Posted May 1, 2006 Author Share Posted May 1, 2006 OK, did fork job. Removed radiator and almost everything connecting on the engine except theA/C and moved forward in the car. Lost one of the little spring clips to attach to the through out bearing, but before closing time at Teape Subaru in Hurst so got another. Pic of old and new fork side by side, and also the setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted May 2, 2006 Share Posted May 2, 2006 Nice. My other thought if it hadn't been the fork would have been a siezing pilot bearing, which would continue to spin the tranny shaft. Somebody doesn't look happy to be pulling the engine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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