New to the Subaru Family, Should I stay or Go?

[smidogg]

Hello Everyone Here is My story.

After a couple of years of saving I just purchased a 1998 Subaru Legacy L Wagon 5 speed , which is also my first car in 5 years.

 

When I purchased the car (for 2000$ with 117,000 miles) The reason it was so cheap is that it had obvious and severe torque bind.

First thing that I did was change the Tires (they were totally bald), this resulted in a substantial (95%) improvement in the binding, but it was still there especially in reverse.

Next step was that I flushed out both of the front and rear differentials. This also helped a little bit.

So from what I have read on this forum the next step in solving this problem in the MANUAL transmission is to have the Vicious Coupling replaced.

 

So my question is this. What would be the next thing in the drive train to go AFTER the vicious coupling? What I want to be wary of is doing another 500 dollar repair and then still having this problem. Or is the viscious coupling the last place that binding will result from and after replacing it the problem will be gone.

Also is it indicitave of another problem that it is worse in reverse? Also it will bind wheather or not the cluch is in, is that normal for this problem?

 

As far as I know the transmission is fine (shifts in and out of all gears, up and down, no problem), I took it on some windey roads and even a little off roading and the AWD seems to function perfectly (couldent get even a squak out of the tires on fast and tight mountain turns and no tire slipping on steep grades on gravel), and there is no whining from the differentials. As far as I can tell the rest of the car is in killer shape!

 

So what is all of your advice. Should the VC replacement fully fix this, thus having me make out with a killer deal on this car. Or should I just sell it again, save more money and get another subie.

Thanks in advance

[nipper]

How many miles are on this car?

What exactly are you feeling?

If the tires solved 95% of the torque bind on the manual, that was the cause, and also the demise of the viscous coupling. It seems like it hasnt been going on long, but still, there is nothing else you can do since the VC is a sealed unit.

Since you say it seems more aparent in reverse then forward, just double check to make sure the differential is ok.

 

nipper

[smidogg]

How many miles are on this car?

What exactly are you feeling?

If the tires solved 95% of the torque bind on the manual, that was the cause, and also the demise of the viscous coupling. It seems like it hasnt been going on long, but still, there is nothing else you can do since the VC is a sealed unit.

Since you say it seems more aparent in reverse then forward, just double check to make sure the differential is ok.

 

nipper

 

 

Hello

There are 117000 miles on the car. I am feeling a pulsing and binding when I make sharp turns at low speeds in forward and reverse. Also when in reverse, the car moves fine until the wheel is turned past a certain point, then it binds. So if I back out of my driveway in a straight line, then there is no noticeable problem.

I don't mind replacing the VC as long as that is going to fix the problem. I don't have the money to replace the entire drive train so I want to figure out if this is the last step in eliminating the Torque Bind Demon.

Also how would I go about making sure the differential is alright. As I said I have drivin it in the dirt and on windey roads and the AWD functions perfectly. Im assuming that is a good sign.

[nipper]

Hello

There are 117000 miles on the car. I am feeling a pulsing and binding when I make sharp turns at low speeds in forward and reverse. Also when in reverse, the car moves fine until the wheel is turned past a certain point, then it binds. So if I back out of my driveway in a straight line, then there is no noticeable problem.

I don't mind replacing the VC as long as that is going to fix the problem. I don't have the money to replace the entire drive train so I want to figure out if this is the last step in eliminating the Torque Bind Demon.

Also how would I go about making sure the differential is alright. As I said I have drivin it in the dirt and on windey roads and the AWD functions perfectly. Im assuming that is a good sign.

 

You have a solid car. Soobys arent even brokenin untill 200K. There arent many things to go wrong on a sooby, you need to investigate the timing belt to see if it needs changing.

Sounds like you have the beginings of VC failure (well technically it has already failed). I dont know how long it takes for it to go totally south. Sounds like the rear differnential is ok.

 

nipper

[smidogg]

You have a solid car. Soobys arent even brokenin untill 200K. There arent many things to go wrong on a sooby, you need to investigate the timing belt to see if it needs changing.

Sounds like you have the beginings of VC failure (well technically it has already failed). I dont know how long it takes for it to go totally south. Sounds like the rear differnential is ok.

 

nipper

 

Thank you so much for the piece of mind on this issue. I know that the timing belt was replaced at 71000 miles so I'm good to go there.

So I will go get the VC replaced in a few days and I will give you an update.

Also just to know, what are the signs of a bad differential?

Thanks again Nipper

[nipper]

depends upon the differnential, generically speaking. One way is the differntial will ROAR and get louder with speed. Also another mode of failure is a posi or VC Limited Slip differntial you will have what feels like torque bind all the time. The tires will squeel on turns.

 

nipper

[smidogg]

depends upon the differnential, generically speaking. One way is the differntial will ROAR and get louder with speed. Also another mode of failure is a posi or VC Limited Slip differntial you will have what feels like torque bind all the time. The tires will squeel on turns.

 

nipper

Yeah not having those symptoms.

Im gonna give the VC replacement a try.

Thanks

Smitty

[WoodsWagon]

Cheaper method might be to get a used tranny out of a donor car in the junkyard. What happened to yours was the mismatched tire sizes overheated the center diff, which then charred into a solid lump. If you swap out a used tranny, it should probably work just as well and the chance of it being seized too are slim. Replace all the shift bushings while it is out.

[Gnuman]

The VC is the last item in the chain that involves Torque Bind. Replace it and the TB will be gone. Welcome to the fold! Also to the board. What happens (and what torque bind actually is, is that the center diff (VC) locks up binding the front wheels to the back. This is the same effect that 4WD trucks have, if they drive on pavement with the center diff locked. On a 4WD truck (or car), the center diff can be engaged or disengaged as needed. on an AWD car (or truck) this is accomplished using a limited slip type center diff. The VC is that center diff, and it's failure results in the symptom called torque bind. Sounds like you got a really great deal. Enjoy this car with confidence now that you have the one major problem corrected.

[friendly_jacek]

One more think, before declaring a great deal on this car, investigate the head gasket, as many used subarus for sale MY 1997-1999 have HG problems.