Dummy With A Brake Problem

[forester01]

I've searched through the posts and now believe my low brake pedal may well be caused by my neglecting to flush the brakes oftern enough. The car is a 2001 Forester with drum rears, 85000 on the clock, second set of front pads. the first brake work was done by the dealer at the 30K service I think, nothing since. The brake pedal is very low. Front pads have life left, rear shoes are just about ready to be replaced along with the drums. My main question, are there rebuild kits for the calipers and the rear slave cylinders? I have the double piston calipers but they look easy to rebuild. I'd like to be able to buy the rubber parts and maybe new pistons if the original can't be cleaned up. Should I just go with rebuilt calipers and new slave cylinders. Can I use DOT 4 in this system. I do not want to go synthetic do to water pooling problems.

Thanks for any advice.

[nipper]

Firts off flushing brake fluid wil not cause a low pedal, but worn shoes and pads may. Contaminated fluid or air in the system is the issue. Air can cause a low or spongy pedal all the time, contamination will cause brake fade.

The "slave" cylinders are called wheel cylinders. Why do you want to replace everything? It can be easier to get rebuilds instead of rebuilding them yourself, when time is taken into considertaion. 80 k is awfully early to have any major brake issues, but it happens.

 

nipper

[idosubaru]

agree with nipper.

80k is early for major brake issues. subaru's don't typically have many brake problems in my experience. i'd flush the system properly and replace any warn pads first before needlessly replacing parts. have you checked the fluid level? could it be low enough that on a bad hill or corner it sloshed and sucked in some air? i think a basic brake check, pad replacement and fluid flush will get you going just fine. if not, move on from there.

 

calipers can be rebuilt and it is fairly easy to do, though i've never done the 2 pot variety. it's only one seal, the circlip and dust boot for each piston, only takes a couple minutes. but nipper is right, price out your options and see what you want to do. in the ones i've taken apart the pistons have never been rusted or needed replacing. i've scored complete rebuild kits for less than $10 and the ones i've always gotten (Beck Arnley) cover both sides.

but i'm doubtful this is your problem anyway.

[Setright]

I disagree.

 

Worn pads cannot cause a low pedal, the fluid fills the brake lines to compensate.

 

Worn brake shoes can cause extra pedal movement, if the automatic adjustment isn't working.

 

You could remove the drums and give the adjustment mechanism a click or two more to push the shoes outward. The drum should fit snugly over the shoes, but not drag on them.

 

 

Start there, then flush. Or flush anyway, since it's probably a while since the last time. Yes, DOT 4 is good in these systems.

 

However, if there's DOT 3 in there now, you might want to continue using that, unless you want to bleed the system two or three times - if you have ABS. Flush, drive and brake hard enough to activate ABS. Flush, drive and brake hard enough....

This will ensure that you also replace the fluid in the ABS pump.

[BigMattyD]

I agree with setright. I think you need to do a good brake fluid change. I have replaced my pads and rotors, and the pedal still feels soft and will travel almost to the floor when I really step on it. I think I may have a small amount of air in the lines from when I tried to change the brake fluid last year. I am going to do it again, but with better technique this time.

 

Last time, I was trying to do it by myself without the aid of a pressure bleeder. This time, I will either get someone to help me so that I can regulate the flow thru the bleeder valves, or I will invest in a pressure system so I can do it myself.

 

Matt

[forester01]

I'm more inclined to think the rear shoes might be stuck. Yes, I did say it's been a while since a flush, but I actually do care pretty well for the car. The fluid level is fine and the fluid in the reservoir looks pretty clean. I have a pressure bleeder so I'll take care of this. Does the car originally come with DOT-3? I'll stick to that if so. The drims are very grungy on the outside edges. The also came off with no resistance or drag. I'll swap out the drums and shoes for new and super clean the adjuster. This is most likely my issue. I removed the calipers, well moved them, so I could pop out the pads. They have many miles left to go. I was abl;e to move the pistons by hand so they aren't frozen. When I bought the car for my wife I didn't even realize they had back drums. Haven't done drums except on my 58 Mercedes in many many years.

Thanks All.