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Hub Differences


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Hi, I am going to go the cheap route and just get some used hubs instead of replacing the bearings. I need to know if there are any differences between the d/r hubs on my 87 and hubs off of the push button loyales?

 

You have a Gl right?

 

I recently got a knuckle from the junk yard and im still not sure if the bearing is good. Its almost the same amount of work except instead of detatching the knuckle from the strut you can unbold it from the top and pound then bad boys out in no time... this is a bench or at least a floor job.

 

You can get a knuckle for under 40.... whereas the parts to change all of this might be 60-70$(per side)... but changing the bearings will give you a great deal more confidance in the long run.

 

This isnt a hard job.... remove the caliper... push the cv shaft through... remove the rotor (purely to make more room)..Remove the outer tie rod end and the grease seals and then I used a 6 inch 3/8 extrension.... pretty much destroyed it but it was soft enough to do the bearings both ways. I have a post on here somewhere from when I did it.

 

Working off the ground it was a bit over 2 hours for me , but it went supriseingly well.

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are the EA82 bearings the slide-into-place kind, like the xt6 with the little C-clip thingy that holds the bearing in place until your torque your axle down? if so new bearings are way better than used/questionable hubs, sure you get the whole hub assembly when you buy a used hub, but you dont know what the bearings are like. i cant seem to find any on ebay right now so i cant give you a price on how much it would be for new bearings.

 

 

~Josh~

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are the EA82 bearings the slide-into-place kind, like the xt6 with the little C-clip thingy that holds the bearing in place until your torque your axle down? ...

EA82 (and EA81) are press-fit. You really should use a brass drift to remove the old bearings, as any steel is likely to be harder than the cast iron of the bearing housing.

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