SOOBOUTLAW Posted June 25, 2006 Share Posted June 25, 2006 My '83 Brat EA81 just won't stay running. So far, I've changed both fuel filters, swapped carbs, coils, fuel pumps, dropped a nice 20k rebuilt motor, removed the fuel tank and cleaned it and the fuel lines real good, cleaned the PCV valve and hose (nasty) and Seafoamed (cool smoke show). Nothing. I drove it home when I bought it in May. Crapped out half way home, but managed to get it going again. It drives, but craps out when it warms up. BTW, the new motor is SWEEEEEET! It's not engine related, but I just can't figure it out. It's like one post on 'you know you're a soob owner if... there is no sciencific explanation it won't run, yet it wont". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IdahoJak Posted June 25, 2006 Share Posted June 25, 2006 When it quits running are you not getting fuel or spark? If I had to guess, I'd think the engine computer might be cutting out when it warms up. You could get a used one at: http://www.car-part.com/ for about $25 plus shipping. Even it that doesn't fix it you would at least have a spare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOOBOUTLAW Posted June 25, 2006 Author Share Posted June 25, 2006 No computer, I checked under the dash. The fuel pump still pumps, the coil still sparks. This is really driving me nuts. It's the first time I can't fix a problem on a car. And I've worked on lots of cars (backyard mech). Many of the probs on my '80 wagon have been fixed by bypassing and improvisions. But, I'd like to fix the Brat as stock as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 25, 2006 Share Posted June 25, 2006 I've had problems on the Hitachi with them just quitting - I think it's the float needle's, but the one that I have that does it has defied all attempts to fix it. The carb has been on my Brat, and for a while was on my wagon. Durring that time it's had three engines under it. I rebuilt it 8 times that I can think of, and it runs oh-so-perfect (amazingly well actually - better than any Hitachi I've ever seen), and then all of a sudden it will start bucking and lose power. It truely is possesed by demonic communist gnomes. If you hold the throttle wide open the thing will sputter and the car will do about 2 MPH.... shut it off and let it sit for a while and it works flawlessly again. All the engines/cars run flawlessly with a Weber. It IS the carb, but for the life of me I can't figure out what it's daft problem is. I thought the float might be sticking partially closed so I replaced the needle and seat, and polished the hinge pin. All was well for a while and then just the other week it died again about 1/4 mile from the house. Got it home sputtering as usual.... I'm totally sick of the Hitachi carb. I pulled it and put the Weber on. My Brat is getting SPFI, and I've half a mind to use the sledge on the crate of Hitachi parts I have just to insure they will never cause anyone harm again. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOOBOUTLAW Posted June 25, 2006 Author Share Posted June 25, 2006 I'm gonna swipe Hatchy's Weber. He's in Vancouver WA on a new job. But his hatch is still in Everett. But, I have his old Hitachi laying around somewhere, I'll try that first maybe.... or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOOBOUTLAW Posted June 25, 2006 Author Share Posted June 25, 2006 Yup, pretty sure the carb now. Just took her for an illicit spin (haven't registered yet cuz I gotta pass emissions, and the current tabs expired in June of 01). Not even warmed up, squacked the tires at low rpm from the stop sign on level ground(this motor is soooo smooth and quiet and healthy), but halfway up a hill around the corner from my house, crapped out again. Made a u-turn and coasted back home. Will a Weber pass emissions, especially all the junk that'll be removed when installed? Or, do I have to modify the float bowl thingie so it never cuts off fuel? Cuz I will if I have to. Just for emission test, or I should move somewhere emissions isn't required. Test is way cheaper than moving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted June 25, 2006 Share Posted June 25, 2006 depends. If your county/state has under the hood inspection, probably not. If they just do a tail pipe test, the yes it very well could pass the test. Get it adjusted right and it'll pass fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOOBOUTLAW Posted June 26, 2006 Author Share Posted June 26, 2006 Overhauled the carb, it was gunked up. Don't think it helped anything. I might do a full rebuild(I got a kit laying around and at least two Hitachis for the kit, maybe two more in storage and another Hitachi mechanical secondary, I have sooo much Subaru parts everywhere!!). I hope to buy a used Weber on Saturday. I might be on the market for an adaptor or two, both EA81 and EA82(my JDM EA71 carb seems to have same baseplate as EA82). I might just swap an EA82 manifold on the Brat (probably will). That spfi swap GD is doing sounds cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOOBOUTLAW Posted June 27, 2006 Author Share Posted June 27, 2006 Found a hookup on a used Weber for $120. Gonna check it out on Saturday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOOBOUTLAW Posted June 29, 2006 Author Share Posted June 29, 2006 IT IS THE CARB!!!! Just took her for a spin, stays running, but, kinda hesitated a bit, might tear the carb back apart and put a brand new float needle valve in. Still getting a Weber though. Or two. Or three. Got an extra engine or two, maybe hi-po buildup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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