SOOBOUTLAW

No the original were a small single filament bulb, and I meant the plug, not the socket that I suspect to be the problem. Never had a problem til I messed with it:grin:.

I just installed and wired dual filament bulbs and sockets to put the turn signals in the parking light lenses('90 Legacy). For some reason, I keep burning out my parking light fuse. Before I replace the 10 amp fuse with something like 15 amp, I'm wondering if the original parking light plugs, which I spliced onto the socket wire, could be causing too much resistance. Looking at it, the prongs are as thin as accupuncture needles. I'm using basic 1157 amber bulbs, reamed the lense holes out to make them fit. The turn signal lights are crimped on spade connectors well wrapped with electrical tape, the parking lights are the stock plugs spliced on(the bulb side). I'm thinking the plugs are the problem, but wanted other people's opinion and advise.

I'm rolling on 195/75 R14 passenger radials, stock suspension, no trimming whatsoever. Just a tiny tappy tap where it was kissing the fender on takeoff. I got pix but I really suck at posting them.

I used whitening toothpaste on my Legacy headlights, then sealed them with three shots of clear. Came out pretty nice. Much better illumination at night.

Damn, if Autozone pulls that $#!t on me, they'll get sued. The replacement GCK axles, that I got used at PAP, are now starting to act up and vibe. Wonder if it's the excessive low end torque output on my motor. It's like a f'n diesel, 1200 rpm burnouts. BTW, seems like only one axle ATM. The one I just replaced. Going camping this weekend up in the mountains so I'm bringing spares. And RWD stubs, just in case I break something in the front diff in the tranny (done it a couple times or so).

Been away for awhile... The problem turned out to be the DOJ on both axles, easy rebuild. Meanwhile I replaced them with..... GCK axles:grin:. Drives so much smoother. The problem axles were getting so bad I thought they were gonna break. I even pushed them hard to see if they would. Gonna take them apart and have a look see.

If the axle is 180* off, the pin holes won't line up right. It may look like they do, but they only line up one way. The resistance the mech felt may be the misalignment of the holes.

k I just bought a 81 hatch 2wd with ea81 for $50 the other day. was told it had a broken baseplate on the carb, so I replaced it and cleaned the carb out while I was at it. then I tried to start it, nothing, then I went through and checked plugs (bought new ones), coil wire(new one too), put on a new cap n rotor. tried again, nothing. so i hooked up my lil trigger started deal so I can watch the engine bay while starting it. pulled the #1 plug wire off of the spark plug and with a screwdriver in the end of the plug wire cranked the engine over with the key in ON position. and got no spark with it close to a good ground area. so i tried it with the coil wire and nothing. went and checked all the fuses, was told to check fusible links, but the hatch actually has none. so then I checked for voltage on the coil +, and there is power to it and its close to 12V. I have the feedback carb with the ecm under the steering wheel, there is a ballast resistor and an igniter. im told that it may be the distributor. is the little light on the ecm supposed to light up when the ignition is in the ON position? is there anyway I can get around having to use the igniter without having to change out carb, which is the 2bbl hitachi feedack carb. The disty is not a points style and has one vacuum port on it, Ive also followed the wiring to the carb and disty and coil/igniter/resistor, all of it is fine as in good grounds, no shorts or burnt wiring. dont have a manual yet so I dont know what to look for like resistance/voltage/amps of any of the circuitry. Im going to put the coil in my brothers (SOOBOUTLAW) brat tomorrow to see if thats the culprit. any ideas? or is there any gurus out around the everett, wa area that wouldnt mind stoppin over to try n help me out. is there any way that i can get my disty tested out? or could any of the electronics on the feedback carb may have crapped out? I may just end up doing an SPFI swap if possible if I cant figure this out within the week.

$50.50 plus tax and a $9.50 core charge at PAP. Bought a few trannys there over the years for various vehicles. All worked fine. One blew up from running 13 lbs of boost too much. And that one was the replacement for the other one that blew up. Gonna get another $50.50 tranny and see how long that lasts.

I've put like a mile on em so far. Only one axle seems to be the issue. I have a pair of old GCK's I scored from PAP that click a tad. Gonna put a few highway miles on them(new ones) and hope it smooths out.

I just installed brand new GCK axles (bought a couple years ago) along with new wheel bearings, seals and lower ball joints (also swapped primo vented rotors and calipers with brand new pads from PAP!!) in the Brat. The GCK's are so tight there is no play at all. They will even hold their position of whichever I turn it to, like up. But, it's so tight it gives me vibrations from a dead stop under acceleration. Anybody ever have this issue? If so, how long until they're "broken in"? I believe only one axle is really tight which makes it harder to turn (the CV/DOJ) that causes the vibes.

Your wheels could be out of balance.

I have '04 Sti springs pending installation on my '90 Legacy wagon. The front springs are too short for the Legacy struts, and the top spring perch has to be replaced with Sti ones, so I gotta get Sti struts and put Legacy tophats on them. The rear springs are tapered just like the Legacy rears. They almost double the stiffness over stock Legacy springs. (125 lbs per inch WTF?? mushy). Supposed to drop the ride an inch or so with Sti strut/spring combo.

True, but fwd sucks. IMO anyway.

I put Legacy seats in the Brat. I used 3/4"x1" steel stock to make adaptor blocks. The Legacy seats are a bit wider than the stock seats. The first blocks I made for the driver's seat were just 1/4" off center, but it really bugged me cuz I could tell it was off center just by sitting there. So I used those blocks on the passenger seat and made proper blocks for the driver's seat. The seats sit 3/4" higher because of the blocks. Plus, the Legacy seats are already taller to begin with, so it kinda makes the Brat feel like a big go cart.

Pretty sure they're the same. I went 2wd a few times myself in both my '80 wagon and the Brat, both rwd. They drove much better, no torque steer. The last time I had the Brat in rwd, it snowed and I had to drive all the way from Bothell. It sucked so bad I almost ditched the Brat to walk home and grab a pair of snow tires. I had to take off in third gear in low range to maintain traction. But, I made it home. And spent an hour rolling around in the mud and slush installing front axles. Then spent half the night tearing up the town. Never again in the Brat or the wagon will I do that again. I'll get another car just for rwd (my neighbor's fwd Hatch for $50!). Hella fun line lock burnouts in rwd.

Oh, that's a little longer than the Mountain Loop........

Thirteen hours!!?? I took my Legacy from Darrington to Barlow Pass in like 15 minutes last fall. At 50+. Float over the potholes like nothing. With 9" wide tires though.

I've been going up there about a dozen times in the last couple weeks or so. Went camping two weeks ago at Youth on Age campground. Tried to get up to Boardman Lake but the snow was a challenge. A friend in his Toyota had to struggle through the slush, but my Brat went through it a bit easier, but there was more snow just ahead, and we had to get the Toyota unstuck. Some dude in a lifted Wagoneer with boggers couldn't even get through it. Can't get to Three Fingers trailhead(Green Mountain rd) because the road is washed out a few miles up from the fork off the pavement. Haven't checked the right fork to the summit of Green Mountain yet. Sunrise mine road is passable to the trailhead, most of the snow melted off(went there yesterday). Barlow Pass is now open (since last week or so). Been going up there almost daily this week. Might do some camping this weekend. And fishing.

You should check your lower control arm and tie rod ball joints. I've had a tie rod ball joint pop out on me once. Also recheck your axle torque. Can't hurt. Plus, if your struts are shot, you would likely get alot of wheel hop and loss of traction from a standing start pretty easy. I've had my front tires dribble like a pair of basketballs on bad struts. And plenty of torque steer when accelerating.

The linkage might need some greasing too. Just a thought.

I've been seeing quite a few different Brats lately and wondering if they belong to members here. Black gen 2 with canopy, Rubatino Refuse, east north Everett. Black gen 1 in alley off Lombard, Everett. Black gen 1, Warm Beach. Blue gen 2, saw once parked on side street off 19th, east of Broadway, Everett. Black gen 2, Machias. Blue gen 2, northeast Briar.(been parked there a long time) Real nice white gen 2 with tinted windows, Arlington (you honked at me going in the opposite direction). White gen 2 with canopy, Park n Ride on 128th at McCollum county park, south Everett.( I think I saw you on the Lowell Snohomish River road too). Gen 2 with brush guard parked on side of the road on old Broadway by Olympic Boat Center, Everett. Red gen 1 with black hood with scoop. Saw you a couple times, once on Everett Mall Way, another on Evergreen way, Everett. Tan gen 1 off State st, north Marysville. Gen 1 off 67th, Arlington. Blue gen 2, 87th (Marysville Pilchuck road) Getchell (north of Lake Stevens).

There's tons of aftermarket parts for the EJ20. Hardly anything for the EJ22 though(but there is some).

OMG that sandrail is badass!! I think the EG33 can handle 5 lbs no problem. Some dude was selling a supercharger kit on this board and said 5 lbs is fine with a stock motor.

Here's mine. Love it.