mrroot Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 Ok, Been a long while since my last post. Got tied up with other projects, but now back to the soob! It's a 1986 XT Turbo, 2wd, no air suspension. I've had to rebuild her from the heads up. Anyhow, everything is back together now, and I'm in the tuning phase, and have a few questions for you experts. I have several vacuum and electrical lines disconnected around my engine compartment that I'd like your opinion on. I have *lots* of pics for your viewing pleasure. I hope you enjoy this detailed account of an EA82 head job. I'll update the text more some day. http://www.mrroot.net/soob/ Anyhow, at the bottom is a list of suspects. If anyone can provide information on those guys and what they might do/need, I'd greatly appreciate it. Right now, the engine *runs*, but is running very rich ( exhaust is horrible, backfires occasionally ) and very rough. She won't run below about 900-1000 rpm ( coughs, chokes, stumbles and dies ) and appears to run best when advanced incredibly far; about 40 BTDC right now ( should be 25 BTDC for the turbo engine ). As always, I appreciate your insights. Hopefully they'll lead me to Subaru Nirvana! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 Did you put the timing belts on right? At the valve timing mark, not the ignition marks and with the cam pulleys with one mark up, one down? Like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 Hummm could I have the same problem ? my wagon dosn't seem to EVER idle below 900 and thats with the hellas on. 1k with them off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrroot Posted June 30, 2006 Author Share Posted June 30, 2006 Holy cow.. I have a confession to make. For some reason, I had it in my head that they both needed to point up, at the marks.. I think between the fact that you install the camshaft housings with the dowel pointing up and you slip the belt on with it pointing up, I made the [incorrect] assumption that they both pointed up when you're done. The amazing thing is that the thing still runs.. I just hope the damage to my pride isn't beyond repair. Thanks for pointing me to the Milesfox thread. I'm going to fix my mistake tonight and let you guys know how it goes. I am still interested/concerned about those suspects, though, so if anyone can speak with authority on those items, feel free to pipe up. I'm going to sit in a corner now with my dunce cap. Did you put the timing belts on right? At the valve timing mark, not the ignition marks and with the cam pulleys with one mark up, one down? Like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoorManzImpreza Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 "Suspect #6 I love this one. Here we have a sensor plugged into the crankcase just in front of the flywheel ( CAS? ) and some previous rump roast-clown just CUT THE WIRES. This one I'm *quite* curious about. If it is the CAS, that could explain a lot of the problems." Knock sensor.. Very important! your car is an 85-86 MY so I'm not sure where the rest of the harness is/goes. In 87 onwards it's just one wire that goes into the engine harness.. Kaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrroot Posted July 1, 2006 Author Share Posted July 1, 2006 Thanks for pointing me to the Milesfox thread. I'm going to fix my mistake tonight and let you guys know how it goes. Well, I fixed the belts and now she won't start.. I did notice that the front passenger injector is leaking a lot of fuel - I hadn't noticed that before, so I don't know if it just started or was always like that. Could this keep the engine from starting? I mean, she doesn't even cough.. Just crank crank crank crank crank. I'm getting fuel to all the cylinders becuase I removed each spark plug and blasted compressed air in each cylinder for a while to dry them out. Thought maybe I was just flooded, but no such luck. Still won't start. I checked spark for each plug using my timing light and they're all getting pulses.. Pulled out the number one plug and checked the spark in the plug - nice and blue. Any ideas? I've tried engine starting fluid to no avail.. At this point I'm rebuilding the fuel system - going to try and find new injectors and see how that changes things. Anyone have good suggestions on where to get these cheap? I'll look into ECU codes tomorrow.. Just strikes me as odd that she ran before with basically half the engine not firing ( timing belt fiasco ) but now with the belts properly set she won't run at all.. Maybe just a nasty coincidence.. Heading to the JY tomorrow for spare parts! Thanks for all your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrroot Posted July 1, 2006 Author Share Posted July 1, 2006 Knock sensor.. Very important! your car is an 85-86 MY so I'm not sure where the rest of the harness is/goes. In 87 onwards it's just one wire that goes into the engine harness.. Kaz Hrmm... Any ideas on where to get a good cheap replacement? Partsamerica wants like $150 for that knock sensor.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrroot Posted July 1, 2006 Author Share Posted July 1, 2006 Well, I fixed the belts and now she won't start.. *sigh* Ignore me. I know why it wasn't starting. In re-doing the belts, I just happened to pick the unlucky phase of the engine that didn't match up with my rotor. I had it set correctly before. Now it's out of whack again. Easy enough to fix. But I think I might put out a complete timing guide when I'm down with this. Not only the stuff milesfox talked about, but also how to check and get your distributor back in order. Note: this isn't a problem normally - just when you're rebuilding the timing from scratch, as I am. And if I'm just blatantly missing something here, feel free to call me an idiot. Any other input on those vacuum lines and electrical connections? I'm probably going to get a set of injectors as the notion of gas leaking onto the engine seems like a Bad Idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 Still won't start? Do you have the rotor (of the distributor) in the right position? It could be 180' off. And did you make sure that the harness to the distributor was connected nice and snug? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrroot Posted July 2, 2006 Author Share Posted July 2, 2006 Still won't start? Do you have the rotor (of the distributor) in the right position? It could be 180' off. And did you make sure that the harness to the distributor was connected nice and snug? I'm sure it would start now. I *did* have the rotor 180 degrees out of phase. Right now I'm in the process of getting new injectors. Anyone know of any good places? I'm not too keen on paying $57 each ( new from partsamerica ).. I think suncarb.com will rebuild them for $100 ( all four ) - anybody have experience with these guys? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 Try this EDIT:Maybe not, those are rebuilts, I, for some reason, thought they were new Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hush777 Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 Suspect 7 and 8 should be for the air suspension I think. Suspect 9 is for the electric cooling fan. Suspect 1 and 2 should be connected to each other. these are the turbo sensors. Suspect 3 , check under the coil for a condensor that it might hook up to. 4 and 5 Have never been hooked up on any of mine. Hush P.S. Double check to make sure that you have a good battery to engine, engine to body, and battery to body ground or the computer freaks out and dumps lots of gas and it don't run for poop. I had a problem with that and managed to burn a half tank of gas in 14 miles......... (huge black smoke cloud out the back). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrroot Posted July 2, 2006 Author Share Posted July 2, 2006 Try thisEDIT:Maybe not, those are rebuilts, I, for some reason, thought they were new $35 isn't too bad - though suncarb does rebuilds for $25.. Thanks for the link, though - another website to add to my list. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrroot Posted July 2, 2006 Author Share Posted July 2, 2006 Suspect 7 and 8 should be for the air suspension I think.Suspect 9 is for the electric cooling fan. Suspect 1 and 2 should be connected to each other. these are the turbo sensors. Suspect 3 , check under the coil for a condensor that it might hook up to. 4 and 5 Have never been hooked up on any of mine. Now that makes sense on the air suspension. Electric cooling fan - duh - I should have remembered that. 1 & 2 I'll have to look at more closely - I think that vacuum line feeds the cruise control. As for #3, there's nothing around it could connect to. And as an interesting side note, at the junk yard yesterday I was pulling parts from an '86 XT and it also did not have that plug connected to anything, so I'm thinking it's a shared wiring harness that has use in some other car. BTW, on that JY run I scored: - starter - distributor - air filter assembly with MAF - coil - windshield wiper motor - knock sensor - camshaft sprocket and seal retainer - power steering pump - 4 fuel injectors - aluminum turbo intake air doohickey - coolant overflow reservoir - brake master cylinder - throttle body - AAV ( sensor on top of thermostat housing ) - spare radiator cap All for $100. Not shabby, methinks. And now I've officially started my spare parts collection. N Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoorManzImpreza Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 *sigh* Ignore me. I know why it wasn't starting. In re-doing the belts, I just happened to pick the unlucky phase of the engine that didn't match up with my rotor. I had it set correctly before. Now it's out of whack again. Easy enough to fix. But I think I might put out a complete timing guide when I'm down with this. Not only the stuff milesfox talked about, but also how to check and get your distributor back in order. Note: this isn't a problem normally - just when you're rebuilding the timing from scratch, as I am. And if I'm just blatantly missing something here, feel free to call me an idiot. Any other input on those vacuum lines and electrical connections? I'm probably going to get a set of injectors as the notion of gas leaking onto the engine seems like a Bad Idea. only book that shows u how to correctly position the distributor after installing new timing belts is the FSM..u can find a link to it somewhere abouts..even tho' it is for an 89 car that part of it is identical..it shows how the cam sprocket should be positioned to get number one at tdc without removing plugs etc.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrroot Posted July 5, 2006 Author Share Posted July 5, 2006 Anyone know of any good places? I'm not too keen on paying $57 each ( new from partsamerica ).. I think suncarb.com will rebuild them for $100 ( all four ) - anybody have experience with these guys? Well, I found this on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8020377783&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT Bring my per-injector cost to $17.18. Not a bad deal for remans, and now I've got spares. I ordered them, so I'll let you know how they perform, both the seller and the injectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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