adwolf1 Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 Hi, 1996 L AWD with about 120k miles on it, Over the past couple of months a noise has been coming from the right-rear, like a "whomp-whomp-whomp" that gets faster and louder with speed, and today it finally turned into a horrible growl/squeal. (loud enough to be embarrassing.) I'm guessing that this is a wheel bearing, and its reaching the end of its life. About how much should it cost my local shop to replace it, and considering the cars age, should I consider doing the opposite side as well? (or do these things sometimes go for 200k without a problem?) The car is also scheduled to get its brakes done (first time since new, i drive like a granny), and there's apparently an oil leak somewhere, so i'm trying to tally up all the costs in my head b4 i bring it in, to see if its worth doing at all.) thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manarius Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 $120 for the bearing - 60 for the bearing and 60 for the labor. Don't bother doing the other side if it isn't howling. From the thump though, I wonder if it's not a back half-shaft doing that. Inspect the boots of the half-shaft to see if they're all right. The thumping noise sounds like CV's going bad, not wheel bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wondercow2 Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 Could even be a worn tire with a flat spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88HatchMonster Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 It will be at least $150 to replace the bearing. Consider replacing the CV axle on that side as well, since what usually causes wheel bearings to fail in high salt use areas like VT is a rusty outer CV cup tearing up the seals allowing dirt and water into the bearing. If the other side is still good, leave it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adwolf1 Posted November 1, 2006 Author Share Posted November 1, 2006 thanks for the help! If it turns out to be the bearing, i'll be sure to get the CV joint replaced too. I've had the old beast since new (11 years, where does the time go..) and am starting to get the dreaded "new car itch". I find myself drawn to the new legacies, but... $30k for a new beast that'll get destroyed by vermont roads.... nah! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manarius Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 I personally wouldn't replace the CV unless it's busted. No point in doing preventative maintence on something that usually lasts the life of the car unless a boot goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adwolf1 Posted November 2, 2006 Author Share Posted November 2, 2006 I managed to get the car in this morning (barely.. what a horrid noise). It wasn't the wheel bearing, apparently the right-rear brake "froze" (guess the caliper got stuck). Apparently when they took the wheel off the brake was hot as hell... as they told me "the only way this brake is coming off is in pieces" :-) I needed a 4-wheel brake job anyway. Also said the links on the rear sway bar were goners & needed replacing. And there were big leaks in the valve cover gasket. Whole thing is going to run around $1500. They are very good sube mechanics, and otherwise the car is sound, so I figure its worth it to keep the old beast running for a few more years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manarius Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 1500!? What are they doing? Replacing your entire engine? Jeez. All that work together isn't more than 8-900. Brakes on these cars are a joke and valve cover gaskets aren't a challenge for even the most basic mechanic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcspeer Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 I agree it does seem a little high, the rear links are 58.00 dollars each and it will need two, I know I just bought two. 1500!? What are they doing? Replacing your entire engine? Jeez. All that work together isn't more than 8-900. Brakes on these cars are a joke and valve cover gaskets aren't a challenge for even the most basic mechanic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adwolf1 Posted November 3, 2006 Author Share Posted November 3, 2006 It might be a bit high, but the shop is known to specialize in subes, and they've always done a great job. Trust is worth some $$ to me (especially b/c when a car breaks down in the dead of winter in VT, the results can be lethal... not a lot of passers-by on the desolate routes I drive. I'd be like Cartman, they'd discover my frozen corpse 500 years in the future or something .) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcspeer Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 I know what you mean, I have went with cheaper prices before only to regret it because of poor work. If you trust these people then they are probably close to what someone else would charge considering the damage that was probably done from the brakes being struck. It might be a bit high, but the shop is known to specialize in subes, and they've always done a great job. Trust is worth some $$ to me (especially b/c when a car breaks down in the dead of winter in VT, the results can be lethal... not a lot of passers-by on the desolate routes I drive. I'd be like Cartman, they'd discover my frozen corpse 500 years in the future or something .) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sailhard Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 1500??? Sounds like a dealer.They sized you up and went from the $1000 butt tapping to the $1500 full-on ream-job. How much labor? Should only be about 3 hours MAX for a pro. Mark up parts much??? If you do feel compelled to "just get it done" ( we've all been there ) make sure you get a lifetime warranty on those brakes. BTW. from autozone I got 4 brake rotors for $160, all the pads ( lifetime warranty ) $35 And 2 valve cover gaskets for 20 bucks and gasket sealer for 5 bucks. Most places mark up parts 100%....still that labor just doesn't add up. If you really needed the links, your car would fail inspection. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve455 Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 $1500 isnt bad if there putting slotted and drilled rotors, performance calipers,ceramic pads,and steel braided brake lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 I managed to get the car in this morning (barely.. what a horrid noise). It wasn't the wheel bearing, apparently the right-rear brake "froze" (guess the caliper got stuck). Apparently when they took the wheel off the brake was hot as hell... as they told me "the only way this brake is coming off is in pieces" :-) I needed a 4-wheel brake job anyway. Also said the links on the rear sway bar were goners & needed replacing. And there were big leaks in the valve cover gasket. Whole thing is going to run around $1500. They are very good sube mechanics, and otherwise the car is sound, so I figure its worth it to keep the old beast running for a few more years. Got to be honest with you, this sounds to high. I always have to think twice when I go in for something simple and 1500 dollars later I am told everything is fixed. I recently brought my sub in for a state inspection and they wanted to replace my steering pump because it made a noise. I told them to tighten the belt and the noise was gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manarius Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 $1500 isnt bad if there putting slotted and drilled rotors, performance calipers,ceramic pads,and steel braided brake lines. Cross-Drilled rotors are a very bad idea. They heat up and crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adwolf1 Posted November 3, 2006 Author Share Posted November 3, 2006 Got to be honest with you, this sounds to high. I always have to think twice when I go in for something simple and 1500 dollars later I am told everything is fixed. I recently brought my sub in for a state inspection and they wanted to replace my steering pump because it made a noise. I told them to tighten the belt and the noise was gone. The price may be a little high, but again, i've been so happy with their work (and their customer service/attitude) in the past I don't mind paying it. They have a sort of unique business model, in that in order to become a client your car must be: 1) less than 10 years old when you start working with them and 2) a sube, toy, nissan, or honda. Assuming that criteria is met, the first time you come in they talk to you for like 45 minutes about the car's history, your "goals" for the car, and you go out on a 15 minute test-drive with the shop owner where he tests the car. It feels more like a trip to a doctor than anything else. They really get to know the guts and history of each car they service, and actually remember details about their clients and their cars between each service, etc... So, yes, their prices are a bit higher than most places, but it's amazing how with just a little "care" they can get away with bigger profit margins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 Here is my business model, the more cash I can keep in my pocket the better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlsimpso Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 Two words: Axel Nut. Be sure they don't tighten it too much. I got about 20K miles out of my replacement right rear wheel bearing on my 98 Legacy GT because the reputable, highly recommended shop made as slight error during the end of the installation. I don't need to say anything about how that quote seems a high, so I won't:) If they are as good as you say, spend the money and be confident you will get what you are paying for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hankosolder2 Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 The price may be a little high, but again, i've been so happy with their work (and their customer service/attitude) in the past I don't mind paying it. They have a sort of unique business model, in that in order to become a client your car must be: 1) less than 10 years old when you start working with them and 2) a sube, toy, nissan, or honda. Assuming that criteria is met, the first time you come in they talk to you for like 45 minutes about the car's history, your "goals" for the car, and you go out on a 15 minute test-drive with the shop owner where he tests the car. It feels more like a trip to a doctor than anything else. They really get to know the guts and history of each car they service, and actually remember details about their clients and their cars between each service, etc... So, yes, their prices are a bit higher than most places, but it's amazing how with just a little "care" they can get away with bigger profit margins. I think people on the USMB are quick to cry "rip-off." I personally do all my own work (up to and including engine swaps) on my cars, but I feel that if you are in a position to afford paying $1500 for a skilled pro to do a good job (assuming that that is the case) why not? As someone who works in a repair industry (not autos) I can appreciate the difference between just slapping on some new parts and giving the car a thorough going over. Many chain shops like to turn old brake rotors, slap on cheap pads, not spend enough time cleaning up the brake hardware, overtorque your lug nuts with air tools, etc. Your favored shop may be using genuine Subaru OEM parts and doing things the right way. They may be replacing calipers and doing all sorts of preventive work not even mentioned on your invoice. It's all down to one's budget and comfort level with the skill and honesty of a particular shop. The only thing which constitutes a "rip off" to my mind is charging for work which is a.) not actually performed or b.) reccomending completely unnecessary work. Sponsor the mechanical arts, Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 LOL u GUYS u think 1500 is alot? I had spent 10k LOL 1500 that makes me laugh, but thats because i got screwed by a transmision shop, and 2k at subaru dealer to fix what the tranny shop f'ed up, and 2k in body work, and 2k in struts, waterpump, timing belt, then 200 on a new crank pulley because of the cheap shop who did the timing belt, and there is a long list of crap done, id really hope the dam tranny shop burns in h***! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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