kimkathan Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 Different car from one previously posted... 96' Legacy been having problems starting after it's warm. Car will start fine if the engine is cool. Once it's warm though it won't start til it's cooled down some (problem at the gas stations!) It's not that the engine is over heating, just that something is not letting it restart. Also, the CEL has been on since this has started as well (code P1101: Fuel Air Metering Malfunction) Could this have something to do with it? What is it? What I've looked up in the search is that it's an O2 Sensor, and that shouldn't have anything to do with it, I don't think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 Hello. I've got a '96 Legacy too. Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (ECT) (kind of buried near the idle air control valve (IACV) is known for causing warm start problems. I have the alldata for the '96 and P1xxx codes are manufacturer specific so I'll see what I can find... edit: hm, well it says P1101 is neutral position switch circuit malfunction, does the thing not even crank, or does it crank but not start? If no cranking at all, then something may very well be botched up with that switch. alldata tells me there might be the same code for the TCU and the ECU but I didn't see anything else listed for this code. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimkathan Posted November 2, 2006 Author Share Posted November 2, 2006 If it was the ECT sensor, would it throw it's own code or not? The only code coming up is the Fuel Air metering one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 The ECU will throw a code only if it can tell there's something wrong in the circuit, like low input or high input, (like short or open), if the sensor is just grossly inaccurate, the ECU probably can't tell there's an issue. (Actually I did get a MIL for the ECT on my '96 last year and replaced it but I do mainly cold starts and never noticed any issue). Why do you think that P1101 code has to do with fuel metering? It does on some vehicles like Mazda, but P1xxx codes are manufacturer specific so some generic list may not be accurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimkathan Posted November 2, 2006 Author Share Posted November 2, 2006 I only thought that it had to do with fuel metering, because that's what my OBDII readed said that it was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manarius Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 Coolant Temp sensor replacement. Check a recent thread - it's the same procedure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 seems to me you couold actually have a temp sensitive Neutral Safety Switch. Next time it fails - see if kiggling/banging around on the shifter might help. I dunno Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwoens Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 for a meger 13-20 bucks I would replace the coolant temp sensor....it fixed my problem of similar issue. If I held the gas peddle pegged it would eventually start....so next time it doesnt start try the pedal to the medal. And swap coolant temp sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 for a meger 13-20 bucks I would replace the coolant temp sensor....it fixed my problem of similar issue. If I held the gas peddle pegged it would eventually start....so next time it doesnt start try the pedal to the medal. And swap coolant temp sensor. good idea! No pedal placement should start it if the NSS is bad.. Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimkathan Posted November 3, 2006 Author Share Posted November 3, 2006 I think that right now we are going to try the neutral safty switch (actually on parts sheets it's called the mode selector) I went yesterday to get an ECT sensor had it in my hand and the tech. asked what was going on with the car I told him and what the CEL was coming up with for a code (P1101) he looked it up and it was for the NSS, but said that I probably had the numbers mixed up. I told him what it was doing with starting and she said that the CEL was probably right. We have a "spare parts car" and are going to take one of before we go and buy one (quoting around $165) and see if it works. I'll try to keep posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delli50 Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 Different car from one previously posted... 96' Legacy been having problems starting after it's warm. Car will start fine if the engine is cool. Once it's warm though it won't start til it's cooled down some (problem at the gas stations!) It's not that the engine is over heating, just that something is not letting it restart. the starting problem may not be related to the cel. i have the same car that had the same problem. i would bet on the cam positiong sensor or the crank positioning sensor. easy way to tell is next time it won't start when hot (i.e., at the gas station) pop the hood and douse both sensors with some water to cool them off and then try to start the car again. if that works, you can later douse one at a time to determine which sensor is bad. i would replace both though if this is the problem. the nice thing about this diagnosis method is that it costs nothing. let us know what happens. regards, mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 Sounds good kimkathan. Does the engine crank but not start, or does it not even crank? I would think if there is something up with the NSS circuit (it might not be the switch itself, it could be out of adjustment or a bad connection) then it wouldn't even crank, you know like protection to keep from cranking it in gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweden Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 I'm with Mark. Cam or Crank Angle Sensor. For me it was the Crank Angle Sensor that finally solved the exact problem that you are having; although I ultimately replaced both. $60 and 5 minutes of time to replace it made going to the grocery store a 15-minute activity again... Sweden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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