I want to thank all you guys for the help trying to suss out my torque bind issue. You guys have been real patient with me. Tomorrow I take the car to Gresham Subaru to have the TCU checked out. If they tell me what's wrong I can probably fix it. I hope it's worth the 1/2-1 hour labor he tells me it should take. I'll let you all know tomorrow evening what I find out. Thanks again.

Well, the dealer says the problem is in the tranny. They want about $2600 for another one. They said everything electrical checked out so it has to be in the tranny. They also said that I could replace the clutch pack but it may not solve the problem. I am going to give myself a couple of days to cool off but I think this car has got to go. Thanks for all the help & suggestions you all made. I do appretiate it.

Ok, here is what I have done. I cut the wire going from the TCU to the duty soenoid c. (#3 connector b33) I hooked up a switched 12v source to the wire going down to the solenoid. With that configuration, there is no binding whatsoever. There is still a code 24 in the computer but I am going to clear it. It turns out the service advisor was not even sure if his tech hooked up the TCU diagnostic. I think all he did was drive it. Any more ideas? Thanks.

there's not much diagnostic stuff for the early computers. You can pretty much do all the diagnostic stuff yourself. All the procedures are on my site, including for the tranny.

 

I don't remember, but when you put the FWD fuse in, it didn't fix the binding? Sorry I've read & responded to a couple threads like this.

 

If the 12v to the solenoid fixes the binding then I'd say the solenoid is ok. If the FWD fuse holder didn't fix the binding, I'd say it's wiring or TCU.

Josh,

 

The fuse would fix the binding but every once in a while the voltage would just drop to 0V. Then the binding would start again. If I shut off the car & restarted it, the voltage wouyld be back up to 11V & no more binding.

when the voltage dropped to 0v.......did the FWD fuse light go out?

John,

 

The light was always on.

 

Pat

it's josh.....

 

One thing I'd try doing is running a separate line from the TCU pinout for the duty c solenoid, and connect it to the solenoid.

 

If problem still occurs, I'd highly suspect the TCU.

pat,

 

am I reading right that you used a sw to dump 12V into the solenoid? And that worked, right?

 

Dealer's "you need a new trans" is bunk. Youv'e already proven that it's an electrical problem.

 

With the fwd fuse in, V should never have dropped. Being that it did suggests wiring (again) or TCU.

 

Now, you've got code 24. Dunno what this is, BUT, if you self-wire the solenoid, and the trans comp no longer "sees" it, it could'should trigger a "something's not quite right" response, which maybe what it's already doing, since the circuit is not always in tact as it is.

 

I like the sw idea. Only Q I had was if the solenoid gets a straight 12V or if it goes through a resister to limit current first (would be in the TCU). Sounds like it's straight tho...

 

Mike

Mike,

 

I just hooked up a 12V that was through the ignition switch. When I had my volt meter hooked up the computer was giving the slenoid 11.65V with the fuse in. This just bypasses the TCU & everything that feeds it. If this continues to work what I need to do is start checking components & grounds from the TCU & sensors. Code 24 is the duty solenoid c. Even with the solenoid wired the way I have it, the TCU poped the code after I cleared it.

 

Pat

Let's try this again. Sorry

 

 

Ohhhh purdy :-)

 

Hmmm would converting it to manual solve all its problems maybe?? (just throwing an idea)

found the wire from the selinoid to be cut in the harness, fixed wiire fixed problem, took me 11hours to find and fix problem though, and i was lucky my custamer didnt care, it cost a fortune to fix 1 wire, i nearly had the transmision out before finding it, was up near the connector at the engiine, inside the housing cover of the wire harness, looked cut clean but the housing was untouched, anyway theres my 2 bits

Hi all,

 

OK, here is what I found up to now. There is never any binding when I have a 12v source going to the solenoid. Never skipped a beat. What I did find this morning is that my voltage that the TCU outputs is not correct. With the fuse out & the car in "1" gear & the pedal floored there should be less then .5V. I have 4-7V. I have also checked all the TCU ground for resistance at the body & there is no bad ground. All read 0 ohms. There are four different grounds. What this seems to be telling me is the harness to the solenoid & the solenoid & the clutch packs are fine. I think either the TCU is bad or one of it's inputs. If it was one of the inputs I should get a code on the ECU but I am not. Just the TCU code 24. Does all this make sense? Am I missing something? I think it's the TCU.

Pat,

 

assuming all your tests on the TCU are correct, I'd try and find a used TCU at a junkyard & try swapping it. If that works, then you've found your problem.....a screwed up TCU. Someone on the board may even have a spare....

Josh,

 

Exactly what I am going to do. I am not going to pay for a new one. Hopefully we can put this tread to rest & I can enjoy my car. Thanks for all the help.

Well. I got another TCU today. It is not the right part number but it is out of a 93 Legacy AWD model sedan. It has a big EE on it instead of the GJ mine has. So far, no more binding & no TCU code 24. Seems to drive & shift fine. Any ideas if the different TCU could hurt anything? It was $20 so I figured I can't go wrong plus it seems to have proved that the old TCU was bad. Any thoughts?

nope....you should be fine.

Well. I got another TCU today. It is not the right part number but it is out of a 93 Legacy AWD model sedan. It has a big EE on it instead of the GJ mine has. So far, no more binding & no TCU code 24. Seems to drive & shift fine. Any ideas if the different TCU could hurt anything? It was $20 so I figured I can't go wrong plus it seems to have proved that the old TCU was bad. Any thoughts?

Could you tell me exactly where the TCU was located? How hard was it changing it. I seem to have your exact problem but its a 1990.

Could you tell me exactly where the TCU was located? How hard was it changing it. I seem to have your exact problem but its a 1990.

 

The TCU was right under the dash to the left of the steering wheel if I remember correctly. I don't have the car anymore but if you take off the trim panel to the left (as you drive) of the steering wheel it should be right there. It is hanging from to 10mm nuts. Very easy to change out. Two nuts & three plugs & your done. Make sure the rest of the system is up to snuff. It took me about a month with allot of help from this forum to figure out my problem. Subaru wanted to replace my tranny. Good luck.

This was a great thread and a success story. Dealers are too quick to change parts. I had TPS replaced recently for a tune of $330 and the problem in retrospect was loose connection (recurred after the replacement).

 

BTW, what happened to the car?

This was a great thread and a success story. Dealers are too quick to change parts. I had TPS replaced recently for a tune of $330 and the problem in retrospect was loose connection (recurred after the replacement).

 

BTW, what happened to the car?

 

A guy came up to my door one day & asked if I was selling my Sube. I had been thinking about it & so I sold it. Now a few months later I have my 95 Legacy/Outback with a 5SPD.

Follow up question to this great success story.

 

MY 98 Impreza OBW is exhibiting intermitent AWD capability. I wonder if it's possible to reset the TCU? I've disconnected my battery for 2 hours, reconnected it and still get no AWD after a few minutes driving.

 

Lot's of snow here in the Northeast now. Plenty of opportunity to test my AWD.

 

I'm leaning toward the switch to control the DS #3 solenid myself.

Loved the posts. The symptoms are the same for our '90 Legacy AWD Auto. With all that info I really have somewhere to start. Next break I get I'll be busy. Thanks!