I have a 91 legacy manual trans. that wont stay in 4th gear when driving.

any advice??

jesus christ mine is doing the same thing/.....just started acting up like 3 days ago....i was just about to post my complaint but i thought i'd try to search first...

 

 

lemme know what happens with ya...shoot me a pm everyonce in awhile

jesus christ mine is doing the same thing/.....just started acting up like 3 days ago....i was just about to post my complaint but i thought i'd try to search first...

 

 

lemme know what happens with ya...shoot me a pm everyonce in awhile

 

I dont know much about the transmission but ive been told it could be a bad sincronizer sp?? I asked if there was external linkage and was told everything is internal..

attatch a bungee cord to the center console that you can wrap around the stick and hold it in gear.

attatch a bungee cord to the center console that you can wrap around the stick and hold it in gear.

 

good idea ive held miine in place strong and hard and it jumps right out ...

maybe early on when the problem first started unfortunately its gotten worse..

hahah bunji cord, you people funny... and down right scary.

 

 

year and mileage on the car, which engine please.

 

A bunji cord, aside from silly, is not going to fix it..

 

From a Mazda repair site, but its the standard explination and they say it better then me.

 

A synchronizer is defiantly the culprit. The synchronizer is a bronze helitical cut gear that is positioned in front of a drive gear. Every gear except reverse has one and its primary purpose is to line up the teeth of the gear you are in with the next gear up or down. The gears are cut at an angle so when they are aligned at different speeds of rotation they will be able to mesh. This is where the term double clutching comes from. When a car with no synchronizers is driven "or one with broken ones" it will grind going into gears if you try to shift it in between gears without matching the speed of the gear you are trying to go into with the one you are shifting out of. Double clutching is when you push the clutch in once, pop the car out of its present gear, then release the clutch, which allows the transmission to match speed on all the components in the transmission, and then clutch again to engage the new gear. Now, the second function of the synchronizer is to keep the car in its selected gear. Because the gears are helitical "teeth cut at an angle" the direction the angle faces can have a dramatic effect on how the gear reacts. The gear is designed to act in a way that when you engage it the rotation of the gear and the direction of the teeth force it to disengage. If it were the other way around the disengagement of gears would be next to impossible at any speed. This is where the second function of the synchronizer comes into play.

It prevents the gear from backing out of gear unless the clutch is engaged and there is no load on that gear.

So, your synchronizer is internally worn and is no longer tight enough to prevent the gear from slipping out at or above a certain load or RPM

wow thats one hell of a good explanation :-\ so getting into the tranny im thinking i need to take every out and replacing the synchronizer is more trouble thanit is worth ?? better get a used one and drive in 1,2, 3rd and 5th gear ??

ty Bill

you can skip the gear, but its easier to replace the tranny then rebuild it.

 

nipper

thats what i figured it was...but i was hoping it could be something stupid....since i cant afford a tranny swap

 

"still wishing i had my own garage"

Ok I'll add to this one.

My 98 Outback Sport is jumping out of fourth also.....Doesnt grind or anything just jumps out....No strange noises ........

Any idea on bench time to replace syncro's?????Anyone? I'd rather repair what I have then pick up another problem child....Seems to be many out there....

Its a lot of time to properly rebuild a manual (at home). Then with the synchros you need access to a press to do it properly. Have youy tried chainging gear oil to redline?

 

nipper