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Pull engine and trans together?


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yes, i've done it. definitely pull them together. it's very easy. just have plenty of clearance to go UP with your lift to get the trans over the radiator top cross support beam. which also means don't jack your car up so far off the ground that you can't clear it when pulling the trans. not that big of a deal, you could help it over....but having all that weight swinging around that high is slightly unnerving too. it's actually way easier to pull them together you don't have to worry about separating them and wiggling, jiggling, prying, getting the angle right, getting to the torque converter bolts, getting the manual trans input shaft out....that's all much easier on the ground out of the car. if yo'ure not separating, then awesome.

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How about putting them back in (mated)?

 

Have seen posts about getting "the last 1\4 inch" right on the transmission seated back into the engine..(forcing of which reportedly can crush the transmission filter?).

 

Obviously seems that it'd be easier to wrestle them together outside.... If the clearance issues are adjusted when pulling out, can they be negotiated back in?

 

John

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How about putting them back in (mated)?
assuming you can do it right to get them out then you can do it right to get them in. is that what you're asking? it's no harder putting it back in. just be sure to be set up to carry that weight and be careful, lifting all that off the ground isn't anything to play with not to sound like you're mom, but don't get all that off balance weight swinging.
Obviously seems that it'd be easier to wrestle them together outside.
that's the beauty for him, there's no wrestling anything if you keep them together. pull out, install, nothing to line up or seat. but if you did have to seat them, it's not really much easier out of the car than in the car.
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Good to know and yes, please lets know how it goes...

 

I'm the kind of wus that gets ticked at how hard it is to even get to the damn plugs into my OBW (last car I did any work on was my 71' Nova, and you could bloody climb in and spend the weekend there!.... crescent wrench and a hammer and you could fix most things...). Still very much figuring out these tight compact aluminum computer deals.

 

Will have to start researching lifts\hoists next.....

 

Somehow seems that at least if you had the engine and tranny out and could see what the heck you were doing, you would at least have some purchase to grab ahold of different points and get them seated (obviously all theoreticaly for me since I've never done it). But clearly like the idea of manuevering a heavier, mated pair back in strategically versus busting knuckles in awkward positions for hours... but that just me...

 

Good luck.

John

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sweet, even easier. the manuals are lighter than the auto's, you'll be golden have fun!

gary,

 

2 questions:

what would you guess is the balance point for a ej22 w/ 4eat, the dog bone point or what??

 

did you find your slide pins fopr your brakes.?? pm me if you still need them. will 96 leg wagon 2.2 4eat workk? oh, and one more thing, how do you lose / ruin a slide pin for a front brake caliper.??

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First some facts (that made a difference). This is an EJ20 WRX motor in a GC chassis. Therefore the crossover pipe made a difference. I could not get it balanced left/right decently because of the Up pipe, turbo and coolant resiviour extra weight on the passengers side. But no big deal. The crossover pipe got hung up on the upper radiator support and it got twisted slightly. No big deal on this shell since it's going to the crusher eventually. If you weren't particularily concerned, it could easily be straightened. Non turbo engine should be a piece of cake.

 

I'm not going to try putting it in the new shell the same way. Since I'm also swapping front crossmember and and suspension, I'm going to try removing the crossmember, lifting the shell up and dropping it on the motor/trans unit. My son wanted to take it out that way and I'll bet that's the way the factory does it! I'll let you know how that goes.

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First some facts (that made a difference). This is an EJ20 WRX motor in a GC chassis. Therefore the crossover pipe made a difference. I could not get it balanced left/right decently because of the Up pipe, turbo and coolant resiviour extra weight on the passengers side. But no big deal. The crossover pipe got hung up on the upper radiator support and it got twisted slightly. No big deal on this shell since it's going to the crusher eventually. If you weren't particularily concerned, it could easily be straightened. Non turbo engine should be a piece of cake.

 

I'm not going to try putting it in the new shell the same way. Since I'm also swapping front crossmember and and suspension, I'm going to try removing the crossmember, lifting the shell up and dropping it on the motor/trans unit. My son wanted to take it out that way and I'll bet that's the way the factory does it! I'll let you know how that goes.

 

i droped an engine / trans out of a 96 that way. it's reallly easy coming out of a junker cause you can cut away all of the front cross members for the bumper, and radiator.

 

but i left the wheels on and that made it awkward. but again removing is easier. sliding or rolling the unit in to place on a furniture dolly or balanced on a jack would do the trick if wheels are off and you are on concrete. but the car has to be really high. i wonder if an engine hoist / lift would be strong enough to lift the fron of the car??

 

good luck.

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I'll use the same thing to lift the car that I do to pull the engine, a come along to the rafters of the garage. I've already lifted the back end of a Loyale wagon that way and this shell is stripped at this point; no doors, no windshield, no interior, no trunk lid so no weight.

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if the trans oil pump is crushed.... what is the repair, new/used tranny or can the oil pump be replaced economically??

 

thanks,

john

 

What breaks is the impeller for the pump which is what engages with the tube on the back of the TC. Since I had another trans sitting there (it was being replaced because of torque bind) I simply swapped pump assemblies from one to the other.

 

The pump section is about 1" wide section between the main body of the trans and the front diff area.

 

It requires pulling the front diff section off the case, and also the rear part where the center clutch pack is. You then must pull the lower shaft out which is as simple as pulling the rear gear off and then it slides all the way out the front. Then you can unbolt the pump section and do with it as you need. It's not a fun job, especially considering that you have to take the trans out of the car to do it.

 

Keith

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What breaks is the impeller for the pump which is what engages with the tube on the back of the TC. Since I had another trans sitting there (it was being replaced because of torque bind) I simply swapped pump assemblies from one to the other.

 

The pump section is about 1" wide section between the main body of the trans and the front diff area.

 

It requires pulling the front diff section off the case, and also the rear part where the center clutch pack is. You then must pull the lower shaft out which is as simple as pulling the rear gear off and then it slides all the way out the front. Then you can unbolt the pump section and do with it as you need. It's not a fun job, especially considering that you have to take the trans out of the car to do it.

 

Keith

 

sounds like a tranny swap to me.

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What breaks is the impeller for the pump which is what engages with the tube on the back of the TC. Since I had another trans sitting there (it was being replaced because of torque bind) I simply swapped pump assemblies from one to the other.

 

The pump section is about 1" wide section between the main body of the trans and the front diff area.

 

It requires pulling the front diff section off the case, and also the rear part where the center clutch pack is. You then must pull the lower shaft out which is as simple as pulling the rear gear off and then it slides all the way out the front. Then you can unbolt the pump section and do with it as you need. It's not a fun job, especially considering that you have to take the trans out of the car to do it.

 

Keith

does the torque converter get damaged?? in other words, do i need to buy one with the used tranny?

 

also, since the tranny is already bad, can i tow it with rear wheels down, front wheels up, or vice versa?? or will the thing destroy it self causing other problems, like broken torn up rear diff or axels?

 

thanks.

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bump up

 

what happens to the TC when it crushes the trans oil pump??

 

thanks,

john

 

Depends if you start the engine or not, and if when you break the pump it seizes the tube to the torque convertor. What happened to me was that I managed to get the engine to start, but it turned very slowly with the starter. What happened was that when my pump impeller broke it jammed the tube to the torque convertor in place. When I started the engine it proceded to flare out the end of the torque convertor where it met with that tube. So it did damage my torque convertor. If I would have realized it before starting the engine, there would have been no damage. Don't know if that helps or not. Attached is a picture of what my pump impeller looked like once broken, and what happened to the tube that attaches to the torque convertor. Unfortunatly I don't have a picture of the torque convertor.

 

Keith

post-960-136027619438_thumb.jpg

post-960-136027619441_thumb.jpg

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Dropped the shell over the engine/trans and it was no big deal. Did it by myself (no one to help me) and it took less than 2 hours from the time I pushed the engine/trans under the shell until I had the front crossmember and trans cross member bolted in place and the engine/trans setting on them and bolted to them.

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