For starters...93 Loyal EA82 SPFI 104K. Last month the Roter and cap, plugs, and fuel filter were replaced, and the car tuned by the previous owner. Last week I replaced the battery.

 

The Problem: Car starts fine, seems to idle nicely at about 800

after it's warm. Seems to have plenty of power in first and second

and third at 3k to 4k. On the highway at 3K to 4 k in forth at 55mph or 2500 in fifth I start to feel the car studder or hesitate,

and when I come to a hill it seems to loose a lot of power, I'll be

in forth at 3500 doing 55 and it will slow down to 45 at wich time

I have to put it in third with the car feeling like it['s going to stall

out. I ran injector cleaner through it with a spendy tank of

hi octane chevron, didn't make any difference...

 

The check engine light will come on with the key turned to "on".

The only code flashing is six short flashes (Haynes says this

indicates MT California car).

 

So...any ideas? Can I check the distributer shaft with out taking it out? Anything else I should look for?

 

Thanks for your help in advance!

Chris

well if you are loosing power you might want to tighten it When my 87 Hatchback started losing power like you describe, it was teh first sign that the fuel pump was going out. If the fuel filters have been replaced, I'd suspect the pump.

how many miles does it have on it you might be needing a new cat that why most of mine lost power the easy way to tell is go to your local lube place and buy a bottle of wynns v.i.c. fuel injection cleaner and run it through your pcv line with a funnel and hose this will clear your cat temporarly and give you some power back for a couple of months then it will go back to no power slowly

The car has 104K. Does anybody know how to check the catalytic

converter to see if it's plugged or not?

 

Cheers,

Chris

just try what i said with the wynns its only like $10.00 to $15.00 and its pretty easy to do

Chris, did you plug the "read memory" connectors together

before watching the 02 monitor for a code output?

Have you seen this site?

http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

Your connectors will be by under the hood by the drives side hood hinge, the color may be white or brown, but not green.

Green ones need plugged together for setting the ignition timing

 

Haynes should stick to making underware IMHO

Skip

Thanks for the heads-up on the "read memory" conectors!

The Haynes manual didn't say anything about that...

I'll give it a look again.

 

Thanks again,

Chris

After figuring out how to retrieve the codes, this is what I ended up with....

 

#11: Crank angle sensor/circuit.

 

#32: Oxygen sensor.

 

For the crank angle sensor....Ok it's in the dizzy, and that is all the Haynes book would give me....said if it was broke, it had to be replaced...Anybody have any other ideas about trouble shooting the distributor. Also, will the same type of dizzy from

an 87 turbo work? (only cuz I happen to have one...).

Several years ago I owned an 80 ea71 wagon. it had a loose

distributor shaft that caused the same "hesitation/loss of power

at certian speeds/RPMs" feeling I'm getting from the Loyal. Me

thinks this might be the problem.

 

02 sensor: Is it worth trouble shooting, or should I just replace it?

 

Thanks again for everyones help,

Chris

I'd just replace the oxygen sensor.

The dizzy from the 87 will work.. you will proabably have to swap the wiring pigtails though.. its really easy.. there a slittle screw on the underside of the dizzy, unscrew it and the pigtail unplugs, then plug the new one in

Same thing happened to me 1 time, turned out the coil was bad, worked fine at a low idle or rpm, but when a load was put on it like a hill the coil would fail, hard to detect cause it's hard to work on your car when it's under a load..