I was heading to work one day and my car cranked over slow but started and didn't think much of it since it was cold out. Later on when leaving work it wouldn't start at all so I rolled it downhill and jumped it in gear, got home and parked on a hill so i could get to work and try to figure out the problem. The next morning and the past few days there has been no problems...until today. Again it cranked slow when I left a store and then when I went to leave my house it wouldn't start at all.

 

It doesn't crank at all, click and the headlights don't dim so it's not the battery. I am going to try jumping past the solenoid tomorrow but could it be the neutral safety switch on the clutch pedal? Any other suggestions? It's just odd to be the starter I think since it was fine, cranked slow and then the next time nothing, worked fine for a few days and then trouble again.

How old is your battery. Clean your battery posts, but since its sparadic im betting your battery is on its way out.

Have the entire charging system tested just to make sure.

 

 

nipper

Dam I meant to write also the battery is less than 6 months old...but since the headlights don't dim at all when you try to crank it the battery should be fine.

check all your connections, check your altenator. A bad alt can kill a battery, but im guessing its corrosion on the terminals.

 

nipper

Dam I meant to write also the battery is less than 6 months old...but since the headlights don't dim at all when you try to crank it the battery should be fine.

If the headlights aren't dimming when the ignition switch is in the START position, then it's likely the battery and it's connections are fine, but that for some reason either the solenoid isn't getting power or the contacts in the starter aren't making.

 

If you have a meter, check for 12V at the solenoid terminal (red/yellow wire) at the starter when the ignition switch is in START position. Based on the wiring diagram I have, if the 12V is there, then it's likely that either the solenoid is weak (there are two windings; possibly the pull-in one is failing) or the starter contacts are worn. If the 12V is absent at the solenoid terminal, then in addition to the clutch switch possibly being the problem, perhaps the starter interlock relay is the culprit (the clutch switch energizes that relay's coil by grounding one end of it), or even the ignition switch itself may be going bad.

Maybe the contacts are getting worn out.

i keep forgetting about those things. Too many years owning cars where you just replaced the starter.

 

nipper

And for everyone's reference:

 

My worn contacts at 89,000 miles ................and the $7 replacement contacts:

 

So even after the replacement, 51,000 miles later on the contacts, this is what they looked when the car hit 140,000 miles.

I cleaned all the connections and still nothing, there is 12V at the battery connection at the starter but I didn't check the solenoid hookup. I did try to jump the solenoid with the key on and still nothing, it is a pain to get a jumper cable in there and I might not have had the best connection but I tried this three times so I think the solenoid is dead.

 

Where is the starter interlock relay and is the clutch switch just the pin that rests against the clutch pedal arm and comes out as you depress the clutch?

 

I ordered a starter today but will check for 12V at the solenoid beforehand. Any tips on installing the starter, I didn't really look at the bolts last night.

 

If the headlights aren't dimming when the ignition switch is in the START position, then it's likely the battery and it's connections are fine, but that for some reason either the solenoid isn't getting power or the contacts in the starter aren't making.

 

If you have a meter, check for 12V at the solenoid terminal (red/yellow wire) at the starter when the ignition switch is in START position. Based on the wiring diagram I have, if the 12V is there, then it's likely that either the solenoid is weak (there are two windings; possibly the pull-in one is failing) or the starter contacts are worn. If the 12V is absent at the solenoid terminal, then in addition to the clutch switch possibly being the problem, perhaps the starter interlock relay is the culprit (the clutch switch energizes that relay's coil by grounding one end of it), or even the ignition switch itself may be going bad.

[...]

Where is the starter interlock relay and is the clutch switch just the pin that rests against the clutch pedal arm and comes out as you depress the clutch?

[...]

I'm not sure if the diagrams linked to below are accurate for the '97, but they should get you close. The clutch switch should be located pretty much as you described.

 

The starter interlock relay should have a red/yellow wire going to the starter solenoid, a green/yellow to the clutch switch and blue/red from the ignition switch:

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/elect_unit_loc/6-3_electrical_unit_location03.jpg

 

The clutch switch should have a green/yellow wire coming from the starter interlock relay:

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/elect_unit_loc/6-3_electrical_unit_location08.jpg

 

Dropping the dash lower panel should make it easier to find things. Checking for 12V on the red/yellow solenoid wire with the ignition switch in START is one of the best ways to tell where to look next.

Thanks all of you for your helpful suggestions. I'll be outside with my voltmeter in the morning.

 

Now I remember a few instances where the cranking was labored. It seems like dirty connections somewhere (at least I'm hoping that's what it is!).

[...]

Now I remember a few instances where the cranking was labored. It seems like dirty connections somewhere (at least I'm hoping that's what it is!).

In the case of labored cranking and/or clicking from the solenoid, the problem could easily be a weak battery or poor battery cable connections.

 

If the problem is actually in the starter, in addition to the info given previously in this thread, the following might help:

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/StarterServiceWin03.pdf