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question about valve adjustment....


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the car/motor is a 1984 hatch, ea81 4 speed d/r, has solid lifters... not sure how to tell a hyd. lifter motor from mine, but when i pulled out the push rods they are one peice, thus being sloid lifters right? please correct me if im wrong. thanks- okay, got the gasket kit all in... everything is put back together, in the car and starts right up, sounds good, just a little loud on 2/4 side. i adjusted the valves after putting the heads back on. this is what i did. positioned the rotor to #1 on the cap, then i made sure it was on 0 on the flywheel. checked the gap on both... not so good, got them both to .10 for intake and .14 for exhaust... thats what my book tells me to adjust them to. the on to #3, right it goes in the order of the firing order. am i making sense? turn the crank 180 after each one, make sure the rotor is lined up with the # on the cap that i am adjusting, and to clarify, the exhaust are the valves on the inside, and the intake valves are on the outside... right makes sense... i cant draw a pic but.... yea. my questoin right now is that it runs, has oil pressure, all that... do i need to run it until it is warm, then re-adjust the valves? or do it cold? the book doesnt say to do it cold or warm.... anyone? thanks in advance! more to come too!

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well im not sure how to adjust valves but i can tell you that you def have solid lifters. All manual tranny EA81s in 83/84 had solid lifters. Auto trannys had hydro lifters in those years. 85 and on all had hydro lifters. You can tell that its a hydro lifter block by the valve covers. Ones with hydro lifters have a little sticker on them saying "dont adjust valve clearance".

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okay... got them all adjusted good. they are solid so yea... thanks on that one. more on this, i drove it about 7 miles, it warmed up to the normal temp line, but no warm air out of the defrost or heater... felt all the hoses, both main radiator hoses were warm adn so were both heater core hoses... hmmm. maybe a clogged heater core? or? what about the hot/cold switch, has anyone ever had them not turn from cold to hot?. or vice versa. another thing- my battery or voltage gauge is saying the lowest it can, doesnt go up when reved up or while driving... same with the oil, doesnt read, im thinking the wire isnt on a good contact... going to clean that tomorow. thanks again. other than those three things the car runs great now, no exhaust leak, no coolant leaks, i replaced alot of those little p.i.t.a. hoses.... later.

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could be a bad heater core valve. look under the driver side footwell where the heater core hoses come in, they go to a valve that usually has a black plastic cover over it. if u pull that cover off you will see the valve with a metal actuating rod that goes up to the hot/cold knob on the center dash. make sure its open all the way, sometimes they can get stuck, i had to put a spring on mine to get it to open up to hot when i turned the knob.

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  • 2 weeks later...

ok... is tha black cover thing inside the car, nto in the engine compartment.? and if i let the car warm up to temp then turn on the def/heat it blows warm for a few, 30 seconds then back to cool air. whats the deal? bad heater core, or clogged somewhere? im going to get new heater core hoses, the other two fro the rad. are new. question- is the knob vacuum assisted or on a cable? thanks for any help!

 

could be a bad heater core valve. look under the driver side footwell where the heater core hoses come in, they go to a valve that usually has a black plastic cover over it. if u pull that cover off you will see the valve with a metal actuating rod that goes up to the hot/cold knob on the center dash. make sure its open all the way, sometimes they can get stuck, i had to put a spring on mine to get it to open up to hot when i turned the knob.
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