daeron Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 Allright, I know I oughta do a search, but here is a (blurry) photo.. Now, where do I splice? I see no oxidation on any connector, but do I remove the large round black plug, or do the leads unplug from the body of the sensor? Also, I have not the time to solder today, but this issue needs resolution NOW. will butt connectors work for the time being? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holmes Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 Don't try to pull those wires out of the sensor. They're not removable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted February 6, 2007 Author Share Posted February 6, 2007 thats exactly what i thought but i thought i had read about bullet connectors now, testing for resistance THRU the sensor, with the engine off and dead cold, i should be able to get a relatively low resistance, right????? because im getting open circuit.. ill go try different range and ive got NO time, i need to be at work in 30... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pisces_0 Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 Coolant Temperature Sensor The coolant temp sensor has a small pigtail harness on it. It'll unplug about 4"-5" away from the sensor. And, I'll go on record as suggesting not to use butt/splice connectors. Solder everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holmes Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 Be advised if your going to buy a new one that they call it by a different name for an 87. They call it an "air charge temperature sensor", I suppose because it controls how much air is let in by the IAC. Check it out here - http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=GPS&mfrpartnumber=77919017&parttype=756&ptset=A And the standard sensor used on the Turbo models is always available. Like these - http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=GPS&mfrpartnumber=385029&parttype=290&ptset=A I used the one for the Turbo since it was cheaper and I wasn't aware that it had a different name at the time. It's worked fine so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted February 7, 2007 Author Share Posted February 7, 2007 oh, I know all about not using butt connectors to repair it. I made my post less than an hour before I was due in for work, and was contemplating cutting and butt splicing JUST to "test" the idea of fixing it. I am not sure that the CTS is my problem... but it probably is. Whats the best way to solder this connection? I've got solder and shrink tubing, should I just cut the wires, twist them together and then tin that connection, bend it back and slip the heat shrink over it? I am not as handy with a soldering Iron as I would like to be. Oh, and here is one of those "duh" questions.. the CTS *is* located on the passenger's side of the thermostat housing, right? I just looked at the overall schematic of the FI system in the FSM and it pointed at a spot on the driver's side intake runner... Naturally I went out to the car and checked that area, but found NO other sensor on the engine that looked like a CTS. I feel embarassed having to ask these details.. but I only posted the thread in the first place 'cuz I was in a hurry. I'm looking right now to find the specs on what kind of resistance values I should be getting cold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted February 7, 2007 Author Share Posted February 7, 2007 I just checked through the USRM quickly and didn't notice a proper write-up on doing this to the coolant temperature sensor.. would one be in order? I guess I am gonna go ahead and cut the plug and solder it, I may as well take photos. If anyone knows that there IS one in there already, let me know.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 daeron, the confusion here I believe is you are reading about and referring to the CTS found on the turbo model of your engine. That engine has the MPFI fuel distribution system. These engines (EA82T) have problems with the contacts on the CTS. (Most GL-10s where EA82Ts) From the picture and your write up it appears you have the SPFI model. The new sensor should have the barrel shaped connector (as in your picture). Thus, no splicing is needed. Very few problems have been reported with this type of connection. If you want to test yours here is a chart from the 87 FSM for the SPFI CTS note the inverse proportion. i.e. higher temp => lower resistance Deg F Resistance 14 ---- 7-11.5 K ohms 68 ----- 2-3 K ohms 122 --- 700 - 1000 ohms hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holmes Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 If you would have read my reply you probably could have figured it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted February 7, 2007 Author Share Posted February 7, 2007 Skip, thanks for the reply and the clarification... how I failed to note that this was typically a turbo model issue, I do not know. Once I got home last night, I found the relevant page in my FSM telling me the resistance values.. Holmes, I read your post.. I just did not click on the links, as I felt I had no need to see more pictures of my sensor.. mud on my face. Well then.. I wonder what is making my engine buck and stall whenever i give it gas, only when it is cold.. Well, to the multimeter now that its daylight AND I have the requisite information! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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