pisces_0

Care to give me a rundown on that? I burned b10scan.iso to a CD, and told Windows to boot from that drive first but still nothing pops up. Basically, explain it to me like I'm a five year-old.

Did you have to boot your laptop in DOS, or can the program be run through Windows in the DOS command prompt?

ABS Pump You'll need the ABS pump that all the brake lines come out of and route to each wheel. With the RX never having ABS as an option (I'm assuming...) you'll have to bend your own brake lines and add a good bit of hardware to the engine bay. I'm with 91Loyale on this one. Much too much work to have something that was never really meant to be in that car in the first place. Besides, most all of the early ABS systems (late '80s - early '90s) left quite a bit to be desired.

Yep, got 'em both still. The turbo harness is fully stripped and modified for use in an EA82. One switched 12V hook-up, one constant 12V hook-up and a few underdash wires to connect and she's good to go! Quite a pain in the butt to do, but the harness looks almost like it came from the factory like this. The EPROM chip in the ECU has been removed and a ZIF socket put in its place for ease of removal/installation of the chip. Still quite a bit to learn about the fuel and timing codes, but work is slowly progressing. And are they for sale? As the saying goes, everything has a price...:-p

You all do realize why monstaru is getting so worked up, don't you? The EJ22T that came in turbo Legacies is a closed-deck, lower compression, tough-as-nails version of the dime-a-dozen EJ22E. They're getting tougher and tougher to find as many of the WRX/STi guys are snatching them up for builds. Quite a different engine than a N/A EJ22E. I pulled the wiring harness and ECU off of a turbo Legy in a local 'yard with the intention of coming back in a few days for the engine. Silly me, I thought it'd be around when I came back! Sure enough, gone and up on eBay that very same day.

Sorry, should have mentioned this in my first post. For all the turbo EJ22 info you could ever want check out Legacy Central: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/ Should be able to find the needed parts to piece together the turbo EJ22 setup.

I'm assuming you're planning on running the turbo setup, since that's what the engine is equipped with. That being the case, you'll definitely need a wiring harness and ECU out of a turbo Legacy. The turbo engine ran larger injectors, a different mass airflow sensor, different grind on the cams (not that it's a huge deal), lower compression and, obviously, boost. There are also a few sensors and solenoids that the turbo cars came with to deal with factory boost control. The long and short of it. Will there be a cost effective way to get the engine running? Probably not since you'll have to piece a lot of the needed parts together. Is it worth picking up the engine anyway? Most definitely. Those turbo 2.2's are stout little pieces. If anything you should be able to resell the engine and turn a profit off of it.

There are a total of three fuel pulsation dampers on an EA82. One right off of the fuel pump, one up in the engine bay between the fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator and one on the fuel return line off of the fuel pressure regulator. I've eliminated both dampers in the engine bay (the one between the filter and regulator and the one on the return line off of the regulator) with absolutely zero side-effects. I'd imagine they were put there more for the general public to keep noises down than for performance reasons. My opinion, bypass one (or all) as needed. You'll be fine.

'89 Service Manual - Part 1 '89 Service Manual - Part 2 -or- http://mshoup.us/docs/fsm/ Both have the same info, just different sources. The .pdf files are partial copies of the '89 FSM, but have all the needed info for the swap. The wiring schematics are on the last few pages of Part 2. Remember, the wires and wire colors I noted above were from the EJ22 wiring harness. You'll have to find their match to the stock EA82 wiring. Also, my wiring harness is from a '92 turbo Legacy and there's a chance your wire colors may be different. In the end, it's just a matter of stripping down the harness to the bare necessities and going through it wire by wire.

There's a HUGE difference between the various types of Bosch spark plugs. The Bosch platinums (all-white center electrode) in the single ground electrode, dual ground electrode and quad ground electrode versions are virtually worthless for all applications (Subarus included). I worked at an auto parts store for over five years and in that time I can count on one hand the number of people who actually had success with Bosch platinums. The Bosch "Super" plugs have a copper center electrode similar to a conventional spark plug and will give much the same performance. It's a standard 20K-40K mile spark plug and doesn't have any of the hyped-up crap the platinum series plugs have. Probably won't be quite as good as an NGK plug, but close.

I think you're looking for MAF sensor. It's shorthand for Mrump roast AirFlow sensor. If it's not plugged in, or not in the intake system at all, the car will run VERY erratic, if at all. It is in the car and plugged in, correct?

I think I see the disty now. Is that it on the rear of the right side (passenger's side) head? Doh, I knew it'd be something simple like that!

I have no intention of ever removing the fuel injection system from my EJ22, but this carbureted business has piqued my interest from a purely mechanical point of view. I'm also assuming you mean an '82 Ford Escort w/ 1.6L engine. Here's a pic of the distributor: Maybe I'm missing something glaringly obvious, but how does it mount to the engine and what drives the distributor?

NO!!! These wires control your igntion spark/pulse and do not see a constant 12V. Leave them be and check to see that the coil is receiving a switched 12V as I mentioned above.

ECU pins F47-9 (cylinders 3&4 ignition) and F47-10 (cylinders 1&2 ignition) won't have any power/pulse with the key in the "ON" position. Only while cranking and running will they see power. Anyway, those two ECU pins go into the ignitor (which then goes out to the coil) so they're not the problem at this point. You need to check the main power coming into the coil with the key in the "ON" position. It should read 12V in every key position except for "OFF." According to my diagrams, and a '90 harness may be way different, but the switched power coming into the coil should be a yellow wire in the middle of the 3-pin connector. This wire should see switched 12V. Don't worry about the other two wires. They receive signals from the ignitor to control the ignition on this waste-spark system. Also, mods could you consider moving this thread to the "Retrofitting" section? It's got some good info for those working on an EJ swap.

Yep, those you can completely remove from the harness. TCU stands for "Transmission Control Unit" and unless you're running an EJ22 auto tranny you can remove them. Lemme trot out to the garage to check my harness and see which are left over to go to the dash. Just a sec... Okay, here's the skinny. Besides the wires going from the ECU to the engine bay and control relays, these wires go to the dash: Starter Switch - Blue Red ECU Backup Power - Yellow Red Coolant Temp Gauge - Whilte Blue Oil Pressure Idiot Light - Green White Check Engine Light - Red Yellow Tach - Black Blue Vehicle Speed Sensor - Green Black Clutch/Neutral Switch - Light-Green Yellow Hope this helps...

A couple of things going on here that could be wrong. 1) Your fuel pump is cycling on and off when the key is turned to the "ON" position? Are you sure the test mode & read memory connectors aren't plugged in? When these connectors are hooked up the fuel pump will cycle and the codes can be read. Not sure if the car isn't startable in this mode, but the on/off cycling sounded weird to me. 2) Is there a switched 12V source wired in to the self-shutoff control wire on the ECU? Without a switched 12V source to this wire the ignition relay won't energize and you won't get power to most of the needed components in the engine bay, ignition coil included. BTW, the self-shutoff control wire is light green and is pin F47-5 on the ECU.

Nice looking wagon! I like the integration of the hood scoop. Maybe I just have to be blatant about it. Who's that heading into the house in the background of the second picture?! Mmmm...

If you're looking to do an EJ swap, the easiest would be to find any '90-'94 Legacy w/manual trans. Nab the engine, ECU, wiring harness, fuel pump relay & ignition relay. From there, study Numbchux's EJ writeup and all the pertinent EJ swap threads on here. The auto trans Legacies come with considerably more wiring that has to be eliminated durring the swap. If an auto car is your only option then go with it, but find a manual for the swap if you can. That being said, in reality you can swap ANY EJ engine and wiring harness into your EA chassis, it all depends upon how ambitous you are. A 2.5L turbo out of an STi? If you've got the cohones for all the wiring that's needed, it's definitely do'able. OBD2 and all the add-ons Subaru tossed in along the way make the swap much more difficult but surely not impossible. Wiring schematics, a soldering iron and a little brain power can go a long way.

Oh wow, been there done that! After pulling as much of the EJ22T harness as I could resonably get to, and a handfull of other spare/misc. wires, I was left with quite the rat's nest of wiring. I had it all sprawled out across the garage floor when my buddy walks in: SpeechlessFriend: "Dude, what in the hell is all this?!" pisces_0: "It's my EJ-swap harness. Just have to get it all rewired and routed." SF: "You're turning THAT into an engine harness?!" p: "Yup. Should take me the better part of a weekend or two." *he stares at me like I've got two heads* *crickets cherp in the background* SF: "'The better part of a weekend or two,' you say?! You're a braver man than I am! Have fun buddy..." He walked out shaking his head and mumbling something about mental illness and boxer engines, but sure as shootin' two FULL weekends of rewiring and soldering later I had an independent engine harness for an EJ22T. Saw these two pics and have to ask about them.Are you somehow retaining the EJ alternator wiring and SMJ? I was just planning on modifying the EA alternator wiring to work with the EJ alternator. Also, I completely removed the SMJ and modified the wiring so it was the correct length to run from under the driver's side dash where the ECU mounts, forward through the fender and then into the engine bay where it connects into the engine harness via three plugs. Did you do yours different? I guess that's the neat thing about these swaps. Everyone has there own little feng-shui mixed into the wiring and mounting.

Ran into this same problem a few months back. The power windows and auto seatbelts became very intermittent and finally stopped working all together. I had to dig into the relays and grounds located under the passenger's seat. All of the connections into the relays looked good, but I cleaned, rewired and slathered them in fresh dielectric grease just for peace of mind. Also, the ground (grounds? can't remember if there was more than one...) near the relays was in HORRIBLE condition. Corrosion had made its way about 2"-3" up the wiring. So, I cut out all the bad wiring and ran new stuff to the freshly sanded and dielectric'd ground location. Buttoned it all back up and the windows and belts went back to functionality! In short, don't trust that the wiring and connections are still good. It's too easy to just replace it all with known-good stuff while you're in there.

'Chux is right. Unless you're going for crazy power, an EJ22E will be more than sufficient. 300 horsepower in the light EA82 chassis would make one heck of a fun car! And yes, keep an eye out but don't hold your breath for an EJ22T. A turbo Legacy showed up in a local boneyard and I was able to score the ECU, wiring harness and turbo-specific solenoids and sensors. Came back two days later for the engine and it had been picked clean. Saw the engine on eBay a week or so later and it went for MUCH more than the boneyard was selling it for. These things fetch a premium price and unless you stumble across one you'll be looking for a while or be paying through the nose.

Nope, that's an OBD-2 EJ22 and is a bit more involved than swapping in a '90-'94 Legacy ECU & EJ22E. Most auto manufacturers switched over to OBD-2 in '95-'96 which included a few additional sensors and more emissions equipment. I'm not saying it can't be done, and I'm sure some on this board have done it, but it's not the "traditional" EJ22 swap.

First off, kudos for such an amazing swap and integration of parts! VERY inventive. I've been watching this thread closely as I'm collecting parts and pieces for an EJ swap. Glad you brought this up, 'Chux! The stock EA CEL gets constant ground and the ECU switches 12V to turn it on and off. The stock EJ CEL gets constant 12V and the ECU switches ground to turn it on and off. Opposites. So, to make the stock CEL in the dash work you've got to wire up one side to constant 12V and the other side up to pin F47-19 on the EJ ECU. Nothing a little time with some wire and a soldering iron can't solve, but I'd have been chasing my tail for hours trying to figure out why the CEL wasn't coming on even though there were codes in the ECU.

Probably not. I broke one off while trying to do that exact same thing (remove manifold bolt, take off a bracket & replace manifold bolt) and had a consistent coolant leak at the manifold gasket until I replaced the broken bolt and replaced the gaskets. In short, leave the manifold sealed if you don't have any current leaks in it.