Uberoo Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 ok I am doing the ej-ea swap.figured I would get off my rump roast and do something this weekend.I have an 87' GL wagon that the engine is going into.The EJ has round mounts.I know I need to grind of the locating studs but do I need to dremel out the mounts in the engine bay? PT2. the flywheel If I dremel out the flywheel it it going to eat through a fat stack of grinding wheels or is the flywheel hardened at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 My EJ22 has round mounts (and had no stubs, oddly enough). I didn't need to grind (1986 EA82T car). I think that EA81 cars need to be ground but it may be that EA82 cars don't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted February 10, 2007 Author Share Posted February 10, 2007 is the ea82T crossmember different from regular EA82 crossmember? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted February 10, 2007 Author Share Posted February 10, 2007 I just bought a tunstein-carbide cutting burr.That should do the trick.then I overlapped the flywheels and sprayed paint down the holes so I know where to grind to.Just waiting on the paint dring.Of to go grind the locating stub off. the locating studs on the mounts must be some HARD stuff.cutting burr was useless because it would keep wandering.so I resorted to hacksawing the stud off.took a good 20 minutes to do one and it completely destroyed my hacksaw blade its all dull after one stud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
970subaru Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 do you have an angle grinder? if not go to harbor freight and get one for $20, plus a couple more grinding wheels, a pack of cutoff wheels and a 60 grit flap wheel. you will use it ALL the time. I used to do all my metal cutting with one but just got a sawzall and a metal blade for my skilsaw. and strangely enough the HF angle grinders actually last a while if you do not abuse them. that will take maybe 30 seconds a side to grind the motor mount nubs off. then you can drill another hole in the crossmember to where the mount bolts are supposed to go, and use a cutoff wheel in your new grinder to connect the hole to the rest of the notch. that flywheel is going to be some very hard, high grade steel. I'd imagine that it will take a bunch of abrasive bits rather than a carbide but I dont know for sure never done one. carbide bits take FOREVER on any kind of hardend steel, I only use them on aluminum. abrasives will actually do some cutting but you do go throgh a few. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 the turbo crossmember has an allowance for the downpipe - that's the only difference. I personally would not fink with the crossmember right now. When you're ready to put the engine in - presumably with a cherry picker - just lower the engine in without the clutch (so you don't have to worry about the trans/clutch matchup) , line up the lower engine>>trans studs, and see if the motor mount studs will line up. Odds are that they will, or if they don't you can mod the crossmember then instead of guessing where to drill now. Then you can pull the engine back out, install the flywheel and clutch, and drop it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 the turbo crossmember has an allowance for the downpipe - that's the only difference. I personally would not fink with the crossmember right now. When you're ready to put the engine in - presumably with a cherry picker - just lower the engine in without the clutch (so you don't have to worry about the trans/clutch matchup) , line up the lower engine>>trans studs, and see if the motor mount studs will line up. Odds are that they will, or if they don't you can mod the crossmember then instead of guessing where to drill now. Then you can pull the engine back out, install the flywheel and clutch, and drop it in. Everybody that has done this swap into an ea82 car has said you don't have to mess with the crossmember, its just the ea81 cars that you must moddify, oddly enough my motor had the round mounts and there were no locating nubs, nor were there on my extra square mounts. Got any pics of the mounts for comparison Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted February 11, 2007 Author Share Posted February 11, 2007 its is just a roundish mount with a threaded rod in the center and a locating nub offset...No worries about the flywheel I will bring them to the local high school or college and have them machine it out(no labor fees... still need to grind of the locating stub on the other mount.But I can do that at college(it is a welding shop,afterall.it is littered with grinders...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 heh.. I've seen plenty of posts that don't specify what crossmember needs messing so I like to spread the truth around and it's funny but my round EJ mounts didn't have nubs. Maybe I'm just speshul. Everybody that has done this swap into an ea82 car has said you don't have to mess with the crossmember, its just the ea81 cars that you must moddify, oddly enough my motor had the round mounts and there were no locating nubs, nor were there on my extra square mounts. Got any pics of the mounts for comparison Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_postie Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 I had a turbo xmember when i dropped a ej22 in and the header pipe would hit on the scalloped side of the xmember as it hung lower.I ended up swapping in a N/A xmember and everything cleared with a bit of tapping on the heatsheild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 I had a turbo xmember when i dropped a ej22 in and the header pipe would hit on the scalloped side of the xmember as it hung lower.I ended up swapping in a N/A xmember and everything cleared with a bit of tapping on the heatsheild. Yeah i've read somewhere about that as well. If you have a turbo ej use a turbo crossmember, n/a use an n/a chrossmember. The n/a version has spots for the y pipe to pass under, and the turbo does not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 Hm, I do have some minor clearance issues related to the crossmember. I'm going to address them after the car's drivable though, as I've already "adjusted" the Y-pipe a little bit.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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