fubar Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 I like the idea of filling the rad from the upper rad hose. That should fill the block with coolant. I've used this method on US cars since the t-stat housing is usually easy to remove and I'd fill the block that way. Another thing I do is to drill a small hole in the stat to allow water and air to flow a tiny bit even if the t-stat is cold. I've done my ford NUMEROUS times due to a couple bad rads, a heater core and a t-stat. I could almost do it in my sleep.I do leave the heater on full since you can feel the air heat up as the coolant heats up. I've also done the rad in my soobie with no problems. I watch for the burp and squeezed the upper rad hose while filling the rad. I am suspicious of the soobie temp guage since it never moves once it's fully warmed up. Whereas the temp gauge on my ford moves up/down with load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 I like the idea of filling the rad from the upper rad hose. That should fill the block with coolant. I've used this method on US cars since the t-stat housing is usually easy to remove and I'd fill the block that way. Another thing I do is to drill a small hole in the stat to allow water and air to flow a tiny bit even if the t-stat is cold. I've done my ford NUMEROUS times due to a couple bad rads, a heater core and a t-stat. I could almost do it in my sleep.I do leave the heater on full since you can feel the air heat up as the coolant heats up. I've also done the rad in my soobie with no problems. I watch for the burp and squeezed the upper rad hose while filling the rad. I am suspicious of the soobie temp guage since it never moves once it's fully warmed up. Whereas the temp gauge on my ford moves up/down with load. OE tstats have the bleed hole. I can see my temp gauge work, but i can also see with the scan gauge it takes a big temp change to make it move in the mid range, like 20-30 degrees. I can see my gauge move climbing mountains under load with ac on, and the scan gauge will say it 210. mid point or a little lower ssms to be from 170-200. I do know the gauge is fairly accurate where it counts, up top. It's cheaper to make a gauge that is accurate in one section then one that is accurate over the entire range. Thats a littl backwards from convential (insert type of gauge here) design, where the middle or working range is most accurate, and the extreems less so. nipper nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artistic_gore Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 I think tomorrow I may limp the car to the shop, the heater is blowing cold and no matter how many tricks I try it doesn't seem to be working. I will have the shop do a flush and fill to see if that doesn't work it out. I thought I had it because when the car is sitting she won't overheat. It only happens under load. I have replaced everything but the radiator (I'm sure you have heard this a million times) in the cooling system and am about ready to throw in the towel. Just think, if this doesn't work; there will be a $300 legacy parts car available in michigan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artistic_gore Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 The shop says they drove it for 15 miles and couldn't get it to act up. They checked out my radiator, heads, and checked my coolant temp at the top and bottom of the system and says it was equal ?meaning I have good flow? I'm guessing there still may have been air trapped in the system and while they were running tests they may have fixed it accidentally , I'm not sure but on my way home I am going to conveniently drive past midas and if it starts to overheat by then I am going to pull in there, have them look at it and try to get a refund from the first shop. I really hope nothing is wrong but after 3+ days of fiddling with it I am skeptical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 I've had a few of them with a bubble i could not get out until I drove it. It seems to me that they rarely get them but when they do it is a bear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artistic_gore Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 Hmm...Seems fine. I need to add some trans fluid and hopefully I can run her for another 37490mi. I want to break 200000 at least now that I am nearing a grand into the car. I guess I can look at it from the perspective that it has a new waterpump, hoses, thermostat, and timing belt it should be fine now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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