artistic_gore

They wanted $160 to pressure test the heads. I chose not to lap or grind the valves initially because I don't have a spring compressor. I'll have to see if I can rent one and invest in a lapping kit or grind tool.

I did not grind the valves but they were not leaking prior to tearing it apart. I guess I will have to get a spring compressor and grind tool and have another go. It will give me an opportunity to replace the stem seals as well.

I put a new headgasket on my ea82 and it's still going nowhere fast. I know I should have had the head checked and possibly shaved but I really don't have the cash. Anyway, now that I have the headgasket on air is escaping through the valves, is there a cheap way to have them rebuilt or should I be looking for a junkyard motor. I'm at a loss. Thanks

Nevermind, please delete.

First, the ticker is at 278,000 (this isn't a concern by itself) and I am curious as to what I should look for at that mileage. The CO (current owner) says it has a leaky valve cover gasket. Is that a common problem, I changed the gaskets on my dads 89 long ago due to a split but I'm just wondering if I can rest assured that it is the VC gasket and not the HG. Also, he says the throw out bearing is chirping. My question is what would be the average cost of having the bearing and the clutch replaced? My sister ran her XT in this condition for many several hundred miles (in fact I think it may have been thousands) so it's not a huge concern either, I'm just looking for a cost estimate so I know if I'll be able to afford it when it comes up (or hopefully before that) Lastly, what is the recommended interval for timing belt replacement? I think for my legacy it was around 130,000? (please don't smite me if I am wrong). CO says it was replaced somewhere around 80,000 ago. I tend to trust him, he is from seattle after all. Thanks, Bryce

I totally hear you on the budget thing, one of these days I'll punch out my forward cat to get rid of the damn rattling

My car did the same thing but it is an auto. I can't remember if it was the cam position sensor or knock sensor that caused it since I had to replace both, but once I did my car was running fine.

A lot of military bases have auto hobby shops, anyone with access to the base can use the shop as far as I know.

This sounds likely, it's a problem I have right now and my car takes a little bit to start but starts every time. However, some food for thought; have your car ran for codes again at a parts store, you may have a failing cam position sensor. Mine was going and as it got worse it got harder and harder to start (on occasion(usually while it was hot)) until finally it refused to start all together. I replaced just the cam sensor and she fired right up even with a near dead battery. I then replaced the knock sensor but that's besides the point.

I flipped a b*tch once; I then flipped the outback over down an embankment and into a tree. That was a bad day.

Just a quick hijack, is it possible for the cam position sensor to go bad over time? Like throw a code but not be dead yet and get worse and worse until it finally goes caput? My car has been throwing the cam position sensor code for about two months but today it wouldn't start at all, after I got to work of course. Today I ordered the cam position sensor, knock sensor and just for good measure the coolant temp sensor. I will have to wait to get the O2 sensor though since I am now all out of cash. Every time you think you're getting ahead....

Can the front O2 sensor be replaced with an after market unit? I am throwing this code currently along with a few others that I am trying to remedy. Also if it comes right down to it and I have to replace the cat would this be an acceptable replacement? It says bolt in but for $140 I don't want to be wrong.

My car vibrates when low on trans fluid. It also doesn't like taking off, it will run up to 4000rpm before it will take off from a dead stop. This is when the trans fluid is at the low warm mark, I add 1/2qt to 1qt of fluid and it goes away.

Hmm...Seems fine. I need to add some trans fluid and hopefully I can run her for another 37490mi. I want to break 200000 at least now that I am nearing a grand into the car. I guess I can look at it from the perspective that it has a new waterpump, hoses, thermostat, and timing belt it should be fine now

The shop says they drove it for 15 miles and couldn't get it to act up. They checked out my radiator, heads, and checked my coolant temp at the top and bottom of the system and says it was equal ?meaning I have good flow? I'm guessing there still may have been air trapped in the system and while they were running tests they may have fixed it accidentally , I'm not sure but on my way home I am going to conveniently drive past midas and if it starts to overheat by then I am going to pull in there, have them look at it and try to get a refund from the first shop. I really hope nothing is wrong but after 3+ days of fiddling with it I am skeptical.

I think tomorrow I may limp the car to the shop, the heater is blowing cold and no matter how many tricks I try it doesn't seem to be working. I will have the shop do a flush and fill to see if that doesn't work it out. I thought I had it because when the car is sitting she won't overheat. It only happens under load. I have replaced everything but the radiator (I'm sure you have heard this a million times) in the cooling system and am about ready to throw in the towel. Just think, if this doesn't work; there will be a $300 legacy parts car available in michigan

The first time I took it straight, the second time as in two days or so ago I let it run without the cap until it came up to temp and then turned the car off and refilled the coolant. I wasn't going to go for a spin but I got the best of me and figured what the hell. I ran it last night with the cap off but haven't got it up to temp yet. I started glub glubbing and I cut it off and posted my question about the bubbles. The air bleed screw is already dead from what I can tell. I found it's location when I checked the manual but then I cleaned the area to get at it I found this lovely conical shape staring back at me where there once was a phillips slot. This morning I am going to go put my fans and overflow can back on and run the car up to temp with the cap off, topping it up every so often and then when I am sure there's no way in hell it will take more coolant I will test drive it.

Ok, I'll take it for a drive tomorrow to see if it all worked out or not. To be honest I was excited when it started. Thanks for the help nipper.

What bubbles should I be looking for? should I be looking for a glub, glub, glub, kind of slow bubble or a faster boiling bubble. Also my exhaust is blowing very white. The first style bubble is what I am experiencing, but this is right after startup. Thanks, Bryce

For those of you who do these repairs on a regular basis... This Bud's for you. And I just want to say...AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!

Could you possibly pull the heads and apply a coating of High temp RTV to the offending area? Thicken it up a bit. Maybe use some permatex spray-a-gasket on the sealing surfaces before reapplying to get a firm seal. That's my ghetto idea for the day. all i've got.

Will do. Sorry about the other thread. I honestly was on auto pilot when I wrote that and didn't even realize until I read it this morning. I'll throw out an update tomorrow if I get her running right.

Simple, stupid I definately feel that I fit into one of those categories. Anyway, I changed the thermo back to the old one and ran it, no bubbles (I think) It came up to temp but sitting it didn't overheat. I then turned it off and the coolant level instantly dropped and I could see small tufts of ?steam, smoke? coming from the front of the engine/back of the radiator area. I topped off the coolant and took it for a drive and it overheated within 100yds of my house. I may go to the dealer tomorrow to pick up an OEM thermostat and gasket so I can change it as well as the water pump. I will probably also go to the hardware store so I can get a few items to pressure test my radiator, or borrow a test kit from advance auto. Haven't decided yet. I guess since I am cringing at the thought of $22 for the thermostat I will probably have to go the borrow route. If none of the above works I will just do the engine swap on my truck and put the subie by the wayside for a while since it is most likely the HGs, and I don't even want to think about something like that.

I'm not sure if I cooked the engine or not. I overheated it until it started lurching and then pulled over and let it cool. The temperature seems to be intermitten coming out of the vents. One minute it will be hot and the next cold. Another thing I didn't mention is that I'm pretty sure the timing belt has never been done before either and I've been planning on doing that for a while so it shouldn't be too much more of a hassle to do the water pump at the same time. I just need hope that and an oem thermostat will solve the problem. I guess as a precaution I will heed your advice and change the oil.

ah here it is. Anywho, my car started to ?overheat? I think, about a week ago. It would be going fine, the temp would look ok and then I would turn off the car and go to turn it back on a few minutes later and it wouldn't start. I had to let it sit for like 10 mins and then it would start and run fine. So in the finest traditions of doing the right thing the wrong way I figured the cooling system could use some help. I replaced the hoses, thermostat (non oem replacement(I will be putting the old one back until I can get to a dealership) To get back on track, why did my car not start? And what is this airbleed screw in the radiator I keep hearing about but can't seem to find. Also the car has 163,000 on it and I don't think the water pump has ever been replaced. Could this be part of the problem? I think I am going to replace it as well as the timing belt this week (I have both). Any advice would be appreciated since my car is OOC until I get this resolved. Thanks, Bryce