March 2, 200719 yr I have a 91 Subaru Legacy Wagon LS I have already replaced a strut and the compressor for them but now My ABS is leaking, I took it to the shop, and they said that its dead. I have to replace the whole freaking box. The part is going to cost more than the car is worth. I love my car, I dont want to lose it. Does anyone know anyting about picking one up from a salvage yard and replacing it or would that be a bad idea?
March 2, 200719 yr Author I guess Im a little worried cause its not covered in the Hayes Manual, at least not that I've seen. I guess I could pay really close attention when taking it out then doing it in reverse, Would I just have to make sure to bleed the breaks after or are there other things to worry about as well? I'm just more comfortable when I have instructions to follow. LOL
March 2, 200719 yr its striaght forward, just like replacing any other brake part http://www.endwrench.com/archive/sysbrak.html this should help. The subaru system is fairly straight forward and easy to replace. Be thankful its not built into the master cylinder like some cars do. nipper
March 2, 200719 yr Author its striaght forward, just like replacing any other brake part http://www.endwrench.com/archive/sysbrak.html this should help. nipper You are the best thanks so much, I think I'll go try and find one if the snow ever dies off....
March 2, 200719 yr I have a good ABS unit for you. How's $60 shipped FedEx to a business, add $5 for a home address. Lmdew@homtail.com Later, Larry
March 3, 200719 yr Great link nipper, thanks! My ABS works TOO well. It will work for about a minute after I start the car and the ABS will engage when slowing down for a turn, then the ABS light comes on in the dash and they no longer work at all.
March 3, 200719 yr [...]My ABS works TOO well. It will work for about a minute after I start the car and the ABS will engage when slowing down for a turn, then the ABS light comes on in the dash and they no longer work at all. You're describing what is usually a wheel sensor problem. The ABS ECU runs two basic sensor tests each time the car is started. The first is done before the car is moved, and checks for electrical continuity. The second happens after the car is moving for several seconds at sufficient speed, and looks for signal from the wheel sensors. If the ABS ECU sees something that isn't correct, the ABS is disabled and the dash light comes on. Things to check for are proper gap between the wheel sensor tips and the tone wheels (also make sure the gap doesn't vary much as a wheel is rotated), no damage to the tone wheels (severe corrosion or missing teeth), and that there isn't some foreign material packed between the tone wheel teeth.
March 4, 200719 yr I have a 91 Subaru Legacy Wagon LS I have already replaced a strut and the compressor for them but now My ABS is leaking, I took it to the shop, and they said that its dead. I have to replace the whole freaking box. The part is going to cost more than the car is worth. I love my car, I dont want to lose it. Does anyone know anyting about picking one up from a salvage yard and replacing it or would that be a bad idea? Plan "B" would be to convert the car to a non-ABS vehicle. If you do this, it is important to make sure that you use all the appropriate parts. (i.e. you COULD just couple the master cylinder output pipes to the pipes feeding the calipers, using little more than "T" pieces and various fittings...but you need to find out how the non ABS version is set up...i.e. does it use the same part number master cylinder, does it have any proportioning valves which are not included in the ABS equipped car, etc. This is important to insure proper brake balance for safety. It may be that you don't need any parts other than fittings, but you need to research it first; a half-baked non abs conversion could be dangerous. Do it right and it'll be just like it left the factory w/o ABS + one less thing to go wrong. Nathan
March 8, 200719 yr Author Plan "B" would be to convert the car to a non-ABS vehicle. If you do this, it is important to make sure that you use all the appropriate parts. (i.e. you COULD just couple the master cylinder output pipes to the pipes feeding the calipers, using little more than "T" pieces and various fittings...but you need to find out how the non ABS version is set up...i.e. does it use the same part number master cylinder, does it have any proportioning valves which are not included in the ABS equipped car, etc. This is important to insure proper brake balance for safety. It may be that you don't need any parts other than fittings, but you need to research it first; a half-baked non abs conversion could be dangerous. Do it right and it'll be just like it left the factory w/o ABS + one less thing to go wrong. Nathan That is something that my dad suggested, but not being quite as mechanically inclined, and him not around to help, I think I've decided to try the replacement box, I mean unless you live in the area and want to come and give me a hand LOL
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