Ok guys....I am new to this forum, but I just picked up a 93 Loyale with Automatic Transmission and I need a bit of Help.

 

First off...how exactly do I pull the CEL codes for this model vehicle? I did a quick search on here, but came up empty handed.

 

I did notice that there are 2 connectors that are unplugged near the driver's side firewall, one green and one white. When I connect both of them with the keys on, I hear a clicking sound and the CEL goes out. What does this mean?

 

Any help would be greatly greatly appreciated!

Ok guys....I am new to this forum, but I just picked up a 93 Loyale with Automatic Transmission and I need a bit of Help.

 

First off...how exactly do I pull the CEL codes for this model vehicle? I did a quick search on here, but came up empty handed.

 

I did notice that there are 2 connectors that are unplugged near the driver's side firewall, one green and one white. When I connect both of them with the keys on, I hear a clicking sound and the CEL goes out. What does this mean?

 

Any help would be greatly greatly appreciated!

 

I dealt with the same thing when I bought my 91 loyale. To self diagnose the CEL, disconnect the green and white wires, then turn on the ignition and look under the steering column at the ECU, the light should flash a series of flashes, but if you said the CEL light goes out when you connect them, then I don't think you have anything to worry about.

 

Mike

But what about that clicking sound? Is that normal?

But what about that clicking sound? Is that normal?

 

I'm not sure on that one, I of course am a newb and my knowledge is limited. I know my ECU will click once when I turn the ignition on.

But what about that clicking sound? Is that normal?

 

The clicking is normal. You put the ECU into one of the diagnostics modes with those connectors.

 

The ECU LED is under the steering column. Easier to see if you remove the plastic panel.

The clicking is normal. You put the ECU into one of the diagnostics modes with those connectors.

 

The ECU LED is under the steering column. Easier to see if you remove the plastic panel.

 

So under normal circumstances those connectors should be plugged or unplugged?

So under normal circumstances that connectors should be plugged or unplugged?

 

They are meant to be unplugged. One set is used to initiate the dealer level diagnostics, the other clear the memory of codes. I'd have to look up the exact sequence for each.

 

Leave them unplugged for normal use. Turn key on. Read the blinks of the LED. The codes are sort of like morse code. There will be a number of short blinks and long blinks. Each set of blinks is counted to come up with the digit. Multiple codes have a slightly longer pause between codes. The sequence repeats in a loop.

 

I'm pretty sure there is a detailed procedure on this site.

Ok...I just took the center plasic piece out from under the steering wheel, plugged both of the connectors in and turned the key to the on position. When I look under the dash at the ecu I am not seeing any flashing LEDs. Anyone have a link to the details for checking the CEL codes?

 

really appreciate all the help so far.

Ok...I just took the center plasic piece out from under the steering wheel, plugged both of the connectors in and turned the key to the on position. When I look under the dash at the ecu I am not seeing any flashing LEDs. Anyone have a link to the details for checking the CEL codes?

 

really appreciate all the help so far.

Yeah, here is the site I used. http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-89.htm

 

Mike

Yeah, here is the site I used. http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-89.htm

 

Mike

 

I just figured it out. Here are the codes I pulled.

 

11 which is the Crank Angle Sensor

 

and

 

34 which is the EGR Solenoid

 

In past experiences do you all think I should replace both or will fixing one likely fix both codes? If so which one?

 

Thanks.

Here is my solution for the EGR solenoid:

 

http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html

 

I never had an 11 before. They are probably not related. The 34 is most likely the EGR solenoid open circuited, or the wiring to it open circuited.

 

I usually try to check the wiring and sensor before just replacing them.

 

The EGR solenoid should be under 100 ohms.

Here is my solution for the EGR solenoid:

 

http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html

 

I never had an 11 before. They are probably not related. The 34 is most likely the EGR solenoid open circuited, or the wiring to it open circuited.

 

I usually try to check the wiring and sensor before just replacing them.

 

The EGR solenoid should be under 100 ohms.

 

Do you know what model Toyota that came off of?

Do you know what model Toyota that came off of?

 

They were used on corollas, at the very least. I just walked around the junkyard and grabbed any that looked close to those in the pictures. It isn't super critical.

Thanks, Dave. I really do appreciate the help. I am going to head out to the Junkyard this weekend and see if I can't score one.