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Sad news for 5 lug swap peices...

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Hey all, new CRMO hubs with new studs are $262AU ea x .786849 makes them $206 US so you'd get the pair for $412. Postage is more economical if I send a few at a time so I'm open to anyone wanting to make a group buy.

 

These hubs will bolt wherever an XT6 hub bolts. At the time that I designed them I had never seen an XT6 hub in the flesh and have inadvertantly designed an 'XT6' hub with a thicker shank and face plate.

 

Gee

 

Wow, i couldn't help but notice (and of course, comment on it like a buffoon:banana:) you had been a member since 2004, yet this was your first post..

Hey all, new CRMO hubs with new studs are $262AU ea x .786849 makes them $206 US so you'd get the pair for $412. Postage is more economical if I send a few at a time so I'm open to anyone wanting to make a group buy.

 

These hubs will bolt wherever an XT6 hub bolts. At the time that I designed them I had never seen an XT6 hub in the flesh and have inadvertantly designed an 'XT6' hub with a thicker shank and face plate.

 

Gee

any real advantages to the thicker shank and face?

Will, the 25143GA280 part number is still good. Zero inventory, but still good. Try ordering it and see what happens.

 

I'm surprised they told you it wasn't available anymore, because they don't know. The only way to find out for sure is to order it.

 

If it's still available, it will backorder. It might take an extra week, an extra couple weeks, who knows? That's up to FHI.

 

It's fun cleaning out NOS out of SOA's warehouses. I, yes me, I bought the last Gen1 EA71 water pump SOA will ever sell. One was left in the country, I bought it, and rechecked the part number, and it went obsolete!

 

Anyway, try ordering that part number Will. Doesn't hurt to try.

  • Author

I did try to order it...they said it would not come as its IS an obsolete PN for Fuji. Its one of those part numbers that are in limbo right now.

 

Plus, if I cant get the other 3, than why order that one?

Weird.

 

I called SOA on a couple Gen1 part numbers that were still good but showed zero inventory and they told me I would have to place an order for them to find out whether they're actually good or not.

  • Author

how long ago was that?

 

As you know...there are different codes that relate to how avalible the part is.

 

25143GA280

 

Code 11-Standalone | Item Status: Active

 

Now, there shows to not be any changes in price since July of 1999...

 

That tells me it has not been any in the USA since about that time...and since there is no supercession info (rare to not have one, but not uncommon) that tells me even more that it is definatly not a popular part.

 

 

The definition of a 'good part number'...to me atleast...is one that atleast will show me status and some history. Like the front bumper cover for an RX. Its been obsolete/inactive for a while. Its a good number, cuz it'll tell me that it existed in the USA.

 

The defination of a 'bad part number' will give me this message:

 

The Following Item(s) Are Not Valid

25143GA282

 

Just because its a 'good number' doesnt mean we can still get it. ;)

 

But if its inactive and obsolete...it is DEFINATLY gone forever. :(

Several gen 2 Brat parts have gone obsolete. Like the fender tubs inside the bed. I'm wondering if the rear quarters are all gone. They show active when I look them up online. But I have no way of knowing untill I have the extra change to order them.

  • Author

if you've got part numbers, I can look them up.

7513 23240

7513 22350

7514 28300

7514 28310

7513 23040

7513 23050

7524 20140

 

These are the main ones I'm wondering about. I know some of them are probably gone from the world for good though.

 

If they are still around just let me know how many so I can maybe hurry up the saving process, LOL.

751323240 - IC Code: 11 - Stand Alone Item Status : Active

 

 

 

Zero inventory, but part number is still good. No supercession info on it. Could backorder, could go obsolete.

 

The Following Item(s) Are Not Valid

751322350

 

751428300 - IC Code: 12 - Obsolete Item Status : Active

 

 

 

Obsolete, no longer available, but price will still show up if you plug the number into subaruparts.com or the like.

 

751428310 -

IC Code: 12 - Obsolete Item Status : Active

 

 

Obsolete, no longer available, but price will still show up if you plug the number into subaruparts.com or the like.

 

751423040 -

IC Code: 22 - Forward Only (Limited Application) Item Status : Active

 

 

That means it superceded to the part number 751423041 -

IC Code: 21 - Forward Only Item Status : Active

 

 

Same thing. Zero inventory. Could backorder, could go obsolete.

 

751323050 -IC Code: 22 - Forward Only (Limited Application) Item Status : Active

 

 

 

 

That means it superceded to the part number 751323051 -

IC Code: 21 - Forward Only Item Status : Active

 

 

which, believe it or not, shows 4 left in the country!

 

752420140 -IC Code: 12 - Obsolete Item Status : Active

 

 

 

Obsolete, no longer available, but price will still show up if you plug the number into subaruparts.com or the like.

So basically I can get a d/s rocker panel...

 

Fabrication here I come.

By the way, rereading Will's post... when I say "good part number" I mean that one still has the potential to get it. That's just poor semantics on my part.

 

So, three of the part numbers I just looked up are "no good" because they're obsolete. The other ones (besides the one that says 'not valid') are "good" because there is still the smidgen of a chance that they're still available, even if they backorder.

  • Author

Cant resist. Sending PM.

Legacies / Imprezas \ Svx´s, Maybe? ... :confused:

Here there Aren´t XT´6 in Junk Yards...

If I ever decide I hate my pugs, which will be never so.... If I ever decide I need perfomance brakes, I will be getting my swaps from an impreza, there abundant, at least the L's are, and Ill find a way.

Actually Im sure someone on here will find it very quickly!

If I ever decide I hate my pugs, which will be never so.... If I ever decide I need perfomance brakes, I will be getting my swaps from an impreza, there abundant, at least the L's are, and Ill find a way.

Actually Im sure someone on here will find it very quickly!

 

Work in progress...

Can't forget that one still needs xt6 hubs (or bratgeebah) for the back even if one uses ej stuff for the front, in fact I recommend the ej stuff if you sort out the rear handbrake using honda/240sx calipers or bratgeebah's adaptor plates and more ej stuff, bigger brakes is good! ;)

 

If I ever decide I hate my pugs, which will be never so.... If I ever decide I need perfomance brakes, I will be getting my swaps from an impreza, there abundant, at least the L's are, and Ill find a way.

Actually Im sure someone on here will find it very quickly!

Can't forget that one still needs xt6 hubs (or bratgeebah) for the back even if one uses ej stuff for the front, in fact I recommend the ej stuff if you sort out the rear handbrake using honda/240sx calipers or bratgeebah's adaptor plates and more ej stuff, bigger brakes is good! ;)

welder, and friend who owns machine shop---- Little bit o money for materials, slight coaxing with a bought dinner--- adapter for GL-10 Turbo with Brembo brakes... hahahaha yeah right but.... well........ not with my wallet.

welder, and friend who owns machine shop---- Little bit o money for materials, slight coaxing with a bought dinner--- adapter for GL-10 Turbo with Brembo brakes... hahahaha yeah right but.... well........ not with my wallet.

 

Well I've got a full metal shop at my disposal. And I'm planning on using 1st gen legacy brakes with an upgrade planned for the future. I've got the ideas in my head for putting the complete suspension from the rear, minus the legacy struts, under the Brat. We'll see if it pans out.

hers 3 ways of fitting 5 stud on the back without xt6 parts.

1/ turn down aset of ea drums to remove the drum and make hub like the legacy. redrill 5 stud pattern space legacy backing plate to suit[this one gets a bit of feedback]

2/machine out spline section of ea drum [you need the spline part intact] machine out legacy hub to except spline ,pin and weld.

3/legacy hubs can be resplined to suit the ea spline.

all the above needs accesss to lathe and mill

hers 3 ways of fitting 5 stud on the back without xt6 parts.

1/ turn down aset of ea drums to remove the drum and make hub like the legacy. redrill 5 stud pattern space legacy backing plate to suit[this one gets a bit of feedback]

2/machine out spline section of ea drum [you need the spline part intact] machine out legacy hub to except spline ,pin and weld.

3/legacy hubs can be resplined to suit the ea spline.

all the above needs accesss to lathe and mill

 

I'm thinking complete suspension overhaul. But after looking a little closer today, I think its too big of a b*tch to do that. XT6 is looking good now.

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