JuliusLinus Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 Good day to all! I was wondering if anyone knows the red flashing codes for a 89 GL Sadan. Any help would be great. Thank You. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misledxcracker Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 I am not sure that write up is entirely accurate as far as the location of your test connectors and ECU. On your sedan, the ECU is bolted to underside of steering column. If your car is SPFI, Your test connectors are either under the hood, near wiper motor and brake fluid resevior. IF it is Turbo, MPFI, then the connectors are under dash, near the ecu. "TEST" connector is green. "READ" connector is black or white. Also, I don't believes you can read the codes off of your "ECS" light. They must be read from the led inside of ECU. It's visible through small hole on front of ECU. Other than tode details, the write up is correct as far as codes and there meanings. One other note is that if no codes are found, the ECU will flash a "model" code. 1-8 flashes depending on Engine type, Trans type, and 49 state or Cali model. Let us know what you find. I have an 89 FSM here and can look up troubleshgooting proceedures for ya when you get the codes. Is your ECS light on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JuliusLinus Posted March 30, 2007 Author Share Posted March 30, 2007 I took the panel off under the steering wheel to find out what it was flashing because the hole was covered. But what the ECU light is falshing are three long and four quick, that should equal to 34 right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 Yup, code 34. EGR solenoid. It's job is to keep the EGR valve from operating until the engine warms up. Then the ECU grounds the solenoid and it opens, alowing vaccum to go to the EGR valve. it's either disconnected, or busted. It can be replaced with almost any vac solenoid from Subaru, toyota, mazda, suzuki, etc. You'll need to swap plugs. Or you can wire in a resitor in it's place. Anyone remember the specs for that resistior? In reality, it's not going to affect much not working. If you really want your EGR to function, you can just remove the solenoid and plug the 2 vac lines into each other. Note that you will still have a code, and your EGR will be opening even during cold(initial startup) operation, so you could get hesitation. Why are you checking codes in the first place? are you getting an ECS light? driveability problems? Only thing I could see the EGR solenoid affecting is start up drivability, if it's stuck open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 Yup, code 34. EGR solenoid. It's job is to keep the EGR valve from operating until the engine warms up. Then the ECU grounds the solenoid and it opens, alowing vaccum to go to the EGR valve. it's either disconnected, or busted. It can be replaced with almost any vac solenoid from Subaru, toyota, mazda, suzuki, etc. You'll need to swap plugs. Or you can wire in a resitor in it's place. Anyone remember the specs for that resistior? In reality, it's not going to affect much not working. If you really want your EGR to function, you can just remove the solenoid and plug the 2 vac lines into each other. Note that you will still have a code, and your EGR will be opening even during cold(initial startup) operation, so you could get hesitation. Why are you checking codes in the first place? are you getting an ECS light? driveability problems? Only thing I could see the EGR solenoid affecting is start up drivability, if it's stuck open. See the "Purge Solenoid INSANITY" thread for the resistor values. Well, for a lively DEBATE on the resistor values. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JuliusLinus Posted March 30, 2007 Author Share Posted March 30, 2007 Driving problems!? Yes the car has stranded me twice on the freeway once because of the rotor screw came off while driving. The second was possible fuel filter problem. The car sat for about three months. I finally was able to have a friend look at it and the fuel filter, rotor, dist. cap, and spark plugs were all replaced. The car runs fine but I'm afraid it might die on the road again. Also, when I first bought the car the engine light was flashing then after a while it stayed on. But that did not keep the car from driving for almost 30K plus miles. It also has a leak from the windshield in through the back of the dash and onto the floor boards. So when ever I turn on my hazard lights the car dies. Thanks for all your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 Driving problems!? Yes the car has stranded me twice on the freeway once because of the rotor screw came off while driving. Not too big of a deal. Can't really harsh on it for that. Just be SURE the screw is tight and use blue threadlocker and it'll never happen again. whoever installed the last rotor didn't do it right, or it had been neglected way too long and worked loose. The second was possible fuel filter problem. The car sat for about three months. I finally was able to have a friend look at it and the fuel filter, rotor, dist. cap, and spark plugs were all replaced. [/Quote] All of this stuff is great to do. And needs to be done regularly(15000), along with 3000 mile oil changes[/Quote] The car runs fine but I'm afraid it might die on the road again. [/Quote] I meant does it have drivability problems now. Sputtering, hesitation, rough idle, no starts? Also, when I first bought the car the engine light was flashing then after a while it stayed on. But that did not keep the car from driving for almost 30K plus miles. [/Quote] Are the green test connectors plugged toghether? they should not be for normal driving. They are for testing, and having the green ones connected will make the ECS light flash and the fuel pump cycle on and off in time with the flashes. This is to test for ECU and fuel pump function. It also has a leak from the windshield in through the back of the dash and onto the floor boards. So when ever I turn on my hazard lights the car dies. Seriously? car dies everytime you hit the hazard lights? Instantaniously? or gradually? Pull the dash. The whole thing. (there is a good write-up in the USRM under heater core swap that descibes the process. Then all the wiing totally clearly and easily accessed to look for damaged wiring. And get in there with sealer of some sort. on that leak while you're at it. Ohh,,,and I guess that,,,, or and don't hit the hazards. It would STILL be very helpful to know the Model, year, and engine setup. ie: Carb, MPFITurbo,SPFI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JuliusLinus Posted March 31, 2007 Author Share Posted March 31, 2007 The car starts and drives fine now but don't know if I should take it anywhere. I don't want it to die on me again. Where are the green test connectors located? The car dies as soon as the hazards are pushed on. With all the problems that I have stated would I have a problem driving it? Could the problem have been a clogged fuel filter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 The green plug should be right next to the ECU or in front of the windshield wiper in the engine compartment. I think pulling the whole dash is a little drastic. Most of the elec relays and such are above the fuse panel. Pull the panel and check the relays above it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JuliusLinus Posted April 2, 2007 Author Share Posted April 2, 2007 With all the information I have listed does anyone think that I would have a problem driving this car? It runs fine but I just don't want it to die on me again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgh831 Posted April 4, 2007 Share Posted April 4, 2007 So just got done with the SPFI swap and have poor idle and am confused on checking the codes. I have the green and white test connectors they are connected allready green to green and white to white. so right now I get 5 flashes of the red light even while driveing. ummm what do I do now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 4, 2007 Share Posted April 4, 2007 So just got done with the SPFI swap and have poor idle and am confused on checking the codes. I have the green and white test connectors they are connected allready green to green and white to white. so right now I get 5 flashes of the red light even while driveing. ummm what do I do now? Disconnect those connectors. they are not supposed to be plugged in during normal driving. With BOTH of them plugged in you are in "clear memory" mode. you won't get any codes but the model designation code. 5= SPFI MT With both unplugged(u-check), the light will flash current codes. With just the green ones plugged in, run it at 2000 rpms for more than a minute, the ECS light will flash. This make the ECU do a diagnosis of everything and output codes. this is D-check. With just the white ones plugged in(read mode) you can output stored codes from the past, that may not be active now. This is good for tracking down connection issues. Code will set briefly when there is bad contact, then go away. but it will stay stored in "read mode" Plugging both in at the same time and running the car for 45 seconds clears all codes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 Disconnect those connectors. they are not supposed to be plugged in during normal driving. With BOTH of them plugged in you are in "clear memory" mode. you won't get any codes but the model designation code. 5= SPFI MT With both unplugged(u-check), the light will flash current codes. With just the green ones plugged in, run it at 2000 rpms for more than a minute, the ECS light will flash. This make the ECU do a diagnosis of everything and output codes. this is D-check. With just the white ones plugged in(read mode) you can output stored codes from the past, that may not be active now. This is good for tracking down connection issues. Code will set briefly when there is bad contact, then go away. but it will stay stored in "read mode" Plugging both in at the same time and running the car for 45 seconds clears all codes. I was reading my FSM thoroughly the other day, and realized that the FSM actually tells you to do certain things with the throttle pedal before starting, when trying to run a D-check. IIRC, you hold the throttle at WOT for 30 seconds, then half throttle for a moment, then zero throttle and start the car.. something like that... Is THIS all that important in doing a D-check? I posted a question somewhere, but I do not recall seeing an answer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgh831 Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 Not sure But he just went to unplug both and I'll get back to you after the test drive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgh831 Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 smoother run for sure going to get codes and chace them down tomorrow. thanks for all the help guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 With all the information I have listed does anyone think that I would have a problem driving this car? It runs fine but I just don't want it to die on me again. Seems like you should be fine to drive it. But the Hazard thing is the most alarming thing you have mentioned. As far as removing the dash, it's not as hard as it sounds. It's held by 3 bolts along the top(pry off little covers to get access)And 2 bolts under radio area, and one at each end, low. The center shifter cover/console has to come out to get access to the 2 in the middle. There are 2 cables, one for the drivers vent(easy to get once the dash is out slighlty) and one for the heater that's get's unclipped on the drivers side of the center hump, up near gas pedal. Then all the big electrical plugs at both ends of the dash need disconnected. Now undo the 2 bolts that hoild the steering column, and lower it. Your dash is ready to come out. I like this way because all the wiring and switches all stay inplace in the dash. This will give you the most access to really assess any corrosion and leaking issues. However, just a though, the hazard flasher could be malfunctioning in such a way that it is grounding the 12v power when you hit the button. I would think the fusible link would then blow and the car would die. So it is worth checking/testing that relay before going to extremes to solve. Is there any problem when you use the Turnsignals? the hazard/turn system uses the same flasher. I imagine that you're problem is somewhere in the Fuse no. 5 circuit. It is the 12v source for the hazards as well as for the ignition relay. Blow fuse 5, car dies. If he turnsignals do nothing, then I am guessing the Hazard switch itself may have a short? But if in fact you're problem is corrosion, then dash removal will make finding it(and sealing the firewall) Much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JuliusLinus Posted April 10, 2007 Author Share Posted April 10, 2007 I drove the car a few miles turned it off for 10 min. or less, tried to start it and it would not start until I pumped the gas and it started right up. What can the possible problem be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 If you haven't replaced the fuel filter I would start with that since this problem sounds like a lack of fuel. If that doesn't help then check the fuel pressure. You may need to replace a weak fuel pump. The problem also may be a lack of spark or you need to replace some old plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JuliusLinus Posted May 8, 2007 Author Share Posted May 8, 2007 If you haven't replaced the fuel filter I would start with that since this problem sounds like a lack of fuel. If that doesn't help then check the fuel pressure. You may need to replace a weak fuel pump. The problem also may be a lack of spark or you need to replace some old plugs. The fuel filter and all spark plugs have been replaced. Is it a difficult process to replace the fuel pump? Please Explain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 The fuel filter and all spark plugs have been replaced. Is it a difficult process to replace the fuel pump? Please Explain. On these cars, no. It is located on a little shelf just in front of the passenger side rear wheel. Just one hose in and one hose out, and connector for the wires. easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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