jchipper Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 Ok I've replaced the heads and gaskets because of a overheating problem so now I've replaced the water pump, T-stat (genuine Subaru t-stat) and took the car for a spin and now it has no power it almost sounds like someone put a plug on the exhaust.... and also just in a 1/2 mile drive the temp guage went to the red.... so what to do now? BTW how does that t-stat work? it seems to me it should be on the other side of the motor because hot water isn't going to go down to the bottom it's going to go up to the other side and if hot water makes it's way down there and the t-stat does open soon as cold water from the rad hits it it's going to shut down and the engine will still have Hot water in it... :-s I asked subaru about it and they seemed offended that I would even question them. so maybe one of you guys can help explain how it works... thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 It works perfectly well on the bottom of the engine. It keeps the engine temp constant. When something was fine before removing the timing belt, then isnt afterwards, the culprit is the timing being off one tooth someplace. I am assuming the car had power before you did the HG's nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jchipper Posted April 21, 2007 Author Share Posted April 21, 2007 I well it was constantly over heating..... but yeah it had power enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 I well it was constantly over heating..... but yeah it had power enough Well check the cam timing, and then do a compression test. These engines can only take so much overheating before something gives. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jchipper Posted April 21, 2007 Author Share Posted April 21, 2007 Well check the cam timing, and then do a compression test. These engines can only take so much overheating before something gives. nipper Cam Timing? how's that done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 Cam Timing? how's that done? Check the timing belt. Make sure it is where its supposed to be, that all the timng marks line up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jchipper Posted April 21, 2007 Author Share Posted April 21, 2007 Check the timing belt. Make sure it is where its supposed to be, that all the timng marks line up when I put it on I checked and double checked and spent almost 2 hrs on it... it's right.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jchipper Posted April 21, 2007 Author Share Posted April 21, 2007 What about Fuel filter?.... the car sat since October of last year.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 can be a fuel filter, but i would check the timing belt again, especially if you reused the belt, or didnt replace the tensioner or idler Which leads to the question, how many miles on this thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jchipper Posted April 21, 2007 Author Share Posted April 21, 2007 Ok another update.... I let it sit a couple hrs... let me back up a bit after sitting so long the battery is sooo dead and will not hold a charge I've charged it overnight and it Will NOT hold a charge so to start it I have to put the charger on 200A Boost then the car will start soon as I take the charger off the car don't run well it starts ideling really bad but the charger back on and it ideils fine and the alt is putting out 14V anyway I let the car sit and let it charge for 10 mins or so then started it up drove out the 1/4 mile driveway and then onto the road and got up to about 30 MPH so far so good sounds good, smooth good power etc.... then all of a sudden like someone threw a switch and the car goes Blahhhhh and takes bout 3/4 mile to get up to 60 mph turn around to come home and get in the driveway and the temp goes up the the hot still running really bad so I part it and come and post so what could that be? why did it run nice for a little while? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jchipper Posted April 21, 2007 Author Share Posted April 21, 2007 can be a fuel filter, but i would check the timing belt again, especially if you reused the belt, or didnt replace the tensioner or idler Which leads to the question, how many miles on this thing How many miles? 288000 I got it last May and I've hardly driven it since I bought it when I was visiting my g/f in Colorado, drove it out here to CA it overheated in NV once a trooper gave me some water then it was fine till I got about 30 miles from home and it overheated, so let it cool put water in and drove it home w/o a hitch, then took it to Washington and went fine all the way to Spokane then when I was about 5 m from my destination it overheated I limped there, pulled the t-stat out and made it the 800 miles back home with the rad cap cracked an the t-stat out and then drove it like that for a couple hundred miles more around here and then parked it for the winter and now am trying to fix the thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 That is an altenator and or a bad battery. Your running hot because the car does not have the power to run all the electrics. So you get a weak spark, slow running cooling fans, limping fuel injectors. Check the ALT output and the battery. Check your battery terminals. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jchipper Posted April 21, 2007 Author Share Posted April 21, 2007 That is an altenator and or a bad battery. Your running hot because the car does not have the power to run all the electrics. So you get a weak spark, slow running cooling fans, limping fuel injectors. Check the ALT output and the battery. Check your battery terminals. nipper The Alt output is 14.5v at the alt and at the batt. The batt terminals are clean but I'm sure it's a dead bat as it won't hold a charge for anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 The Alt output is 14.5v at the alt and at the batt. The batt terminals are clean but I'm sure it's a dead bat as it won't hold a charge for anything A bad battery can damage an altenator. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonicfrog Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 I say it's a clogged catalitic converter. That will zap your power at highway speeds and make the car overheat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 Replace that battery before you fry the Alternator. Also, did you replace the idler pulley and tensioner? Did you check that they were still good at least? New belt as well? sorry if I haven't read if you posted this already. Timing belt could be slipping over the WP pulley, and not driving it fully enough to circulate properly. A bad tensioner could throw off both the pump and the timing. Causing overheating, poor performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 I say it's a clogged catalitic converter. That will zap your power at highway speeds and make the car overheat. It can be a long list here. I dont think its that since he said it ran fine initially then all of a sudden craped out. A clogged cat would be pretty much all the time. But what he can do is his the (cold) cat with his hand and see if it rattles. If it does its done. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jchipper Posted April 21, 2007 Author Share Posted April 21, 2007 I took the exhaust pipe off today and looked in the Cat with a light and looked clean to me I also took off the exhaust pipes at the heads and drove it and it was still just as bad but will try a battery and see what happens.... won't be able to till sunday though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 I took the exhaust pipe off today and looked in the Cat with a light and looked clean to me I also took off the exhaust pipes at the heads and drove it and it was still just as bad but will try a battery and see what happens.... won't be able to till sunday though Have the chargning system load tested after the battery is in. I have a feeling you have two issues, nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jchipper Posted April 21, 2007 Author Share Posted April 21, 2007 Replace that battery before you fry the Alternator. Also, did you replace the idler pulley and tensioner? Did you check that they were still good at least? New belt as well? sorry if I haven't read if you posted this already. Timing belt could be slipping over the WP pulley, and not driving it fully enough to circulate properly. A bad tensioner could throw off both the pump and the timing. Causing overheating, poor performance. No I used the old idler pulley and tensioner they were fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jchipper Posted April 21, 2007 Author Share Posted April 21, 2007 Have the chargning system load tested after the battery is in. I have a feeling you have two issues, nipper two sepperate issues the battery being one and the power being another? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 No I used the old idler pulley and tensioner they were fine. you think they were fine. A new belt can restore tension to the system and can make a border line part fail. They may seem fine to you, but at that mileage I wouldnt trust them. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jchipper Posted April 21, 2007 Author Share Posted April 21, 2007 so you'd change the pulleys and tensioner and the belt? that gets expensive!.... I don't know when anything was done to it though before I got it.... and like I said I haven't had it that many miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 so you'd change the pulleys and tensioner and the belt? that gets expensive!.... I don't know when anything was done to it though before I got it.... and like I said I haven't had it that many miles every 106,000 miles or every 120,000 (60x2) I change Timing belt Tensioner Idler Cam seals Main Seal re seal the oil pump (replace at 200K) Water pump T stat It may seem expensive, but what is your time worth? any one of those parts failing mean at the very least tearing the front of the engine apart again. Do ti once and your guarenteed not to have to do it again untill the next interval. DOing these things in peice meal is far more expensive then doing it all at once. And it can be extreemly expensive if you have an interfernce engine. Asking seals or idler/tensioner to last over 120K is asking alot of them. Look at all the time you have already invested. If it turns out you have a bad tensioner, guess what. You need to tear everything down again. Thats time lost. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jchipper Posted April 21, 2007 Author Share Posted April 21, 2007 every 106,000 miles or every 120,000 (60x2) I change Timing belt Tensioner Idler Cam seals Main Seal re seal the oil pump (replace at 200K) Water pump T stat It may seem expensive, but what is your time worth? any one of those parts failing mean at the very least tearing the front of the engine apart again. Do ti once and your guarenteed not to have to do it again untill the next interval. DOing these things in peice meal is far more expensive then doing it all at once. And it can be extreemly expensive if you have an interfernce engine. Asking seals or idler/tensioner to last over 120K is asking alot of them. Look at all the time you have already invested. If it turns out you have a bad tensioner, guess what. You need to tear everything down again. Thats time lost. nipper .... I suppose... gonna have to sleep on that one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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