Synthetic or Regular Flush or Drain and Fill?

[1995SubaruImpreza]

Hi everyone,

I am taking my car in tomorrow to have an oil change and transmission fluid change and just want everyones expert advise...

 

I have a 2001 Subaru Forester with a little over 200,00kms and I want to know if I should go for a synthetic oil or regular oil as far as I know it has only ever had regular oil in it (I have only owned the car for 4 months) I have heard that synthetic is better, but how much better? and do I have to worry about any problems if the car has never ran on synthetic?

 

Also I am getting the tranny fluid changed my mechanic says just drain and fill it, is that right or should the system be flushed out? I thought it was supposed to be flushed but again I don't know anything about cars.

 

Any preferences on oils?

 

Thanks again to everyone for always such great support

[nipper]

Answer me this first, when was the last time your cam and main selas were done? Do you have any reason to suspect they are weeping.

 

I ask this because synthetic oil does not cause leaks, but it will make a seal thats leaking leak more. If you Feel your seals are good, go ahead and change.

 

There are a few ways to do the tranny.

 

1- For the next three oil changes (dino) do a drain and fill of the tranny.

2- Do a drain and fill three times (drain fill drive around block repeat).

3- Do a complete flush.

 

A simple drain and fill is basically useless as it only gets about 1/3 the fluid out.

 

nipper

[1995SubaruImpreza]

Answer me this first, when was the last time your cam and main selas were done? Do you have any reason to suspect they are weeping.

 

I ask this because synthetic oil does not cause leaks, but it will make a seal thats leaking leak more. If you Feel your seals are good, go ahead and change.

 

There are a few ways to do the tranny.

 

1- For the next three oil changes (dino) do a drain and fill of the tranny.

2- Do a drain and fill three times (drain fill drive around block repeat).

3- Do a complete flush.

 

A simple drain and fill is basically useless as it only gets about 1/3 the fluid out.

 

nipper

 

Well as for leaking I have a leak at the spark plug gasket because of a place way over filling my oil last oil change but I have got the seals and they are going on as well when it goes it (spark plug gaskets and valve cover gasket). Other than that when I got the car the mechanics that looked it over said it was bone dry no leaks at all. But I do not know when the seals were last replaced if ever, the car dealership I bought the car from did not know much about it's history or anything about Subarus.

I am concerned about starting problems with the seals I read alot of posts on here and have seen some indicating leak issues after switching, but I have heard that synthetic is much better for the car.

 

As for the Transmission flush the Mechanic said he would just drain and re-fill it, I don't want to have to get it done over and over because of the expense (100.00 a shot) I would prefer to do it once and get it done with but that being said I would want to do which ever is best for the car

[nipper]

200,000 KM is that like 120,000 miles or there abouts?

 

When was the last time the timing belt was changed?

 

Personally, if it was my car, i would stick with dino and flush the tranny.

 

If a timing belt hasnt been done, I would do it, change the seals, then switch to synthetic.

 

My logic is, I hate oil dripping on the exhaust of a subaru. Synthetic is awfully expensive to leak. Others will disagree with me i am sure.

 

The tranny should be flushed really once every 30,000 miles. You can do it yourself at home with a set of ramps. The AWD will love you for giving it a flush.

 

I am going to switch to synthetic soon, but my new engine has 10,000 miles on it, so I am not worried about my seals.

 

nipper

 

PS - Having synthetic is not an excuse to not open the hood and check the level at least once a month (though it should be once a week). Subarus may use 1 qt every dino oil change cycle and be considered normal. that can translate to two qts every synthetic change.

[cookie]

I've switched my 138,000 miles Forester back and forth between synthetic and dino oil a few times. I was trying to see if I could cut the piston slap a bit. I probably would use dino in your car if I had it. I'm currently running Havoline 5-30 which oddly enough is fairly quiet. I hate losing my extended intervals of synthetic but the Havoline is cheap and I only have to change it a couple times a year.

On an old engine there is little payback from synthetic as you burn and leak more.

[1995SubaruImpreza]

Ok I think I will stick to regular oil until I change my seals (which seals should be changed?) Dino, that is the brand of synthetic oil?

What about the transmission fluid is there a particular brand I should have put in?

The timing belt I have been thinking about replacing actually since I bought my car, is it easy enough to get to to see if it needs to be replaced or is it difficult to get to? If it is not to hard to get at to look at I can probably get my mechanic to take a look at it to let me know if it needs to be done, but if it is hard to get at I might as well just get another one and have him replace it once he has put all the time into getting to it. It is too bad I do not know what the repair history is on the car, although it looks like it has been well maintained you never know

[nipper]

you cant tell the condition of a timing belt by just looking at it. It may look brand new but be at the end of its life. Its ina happy safe place so it doesnt get dirty.

 

Seals are:

Cam

Crank

Oil Pump

 

Also you change the tensioner and idlers at the same time. Do this once and your good for 106,000 trouble free miles, skimpo and you can end up with a very expensive engine repair.

 

Dino = Dead dinosaurs (oil)

 

Transmission fluid can just be any name brand.

 

nipper

[schlit]

Ok I think I will stick to regular oil until I change my seals (which seals should be changed?) Dino, that is the brand of synthetic oil?

What about the transmission fluid is there a particular brand I should have put in?

The timing belt I have been thinking about replacing actually since I bought my car, is it easy enough to get to to see if it needs to be replaced or is it difficult to get to? If it is not to hard to get at to look at I can probably get my mechanic to take a look at it to let me know if it needs to be done, but if it is hard to get at I might as well just get another one and have him replace it once he has put all the time into getting to it. It is too bad I do not know what the repair history is on the car, although it looks like it has been well maintained you never know

 

Here's another vote for dino and a trans flush. Unless you want to extend your oil change interval there really isnt much reason to make the switch to synthetic now.

[usaru]

*

[usaru]

"The tranny should be flushed really once every 30,000 miles. You can do it yourself at home with a set of ramps."

 

Could you explain the procedure please, Nipper?

[nipper]

Thought i did :-\

 

Everyone has a slightly differnt method. Esentially get the car up on ramps. Drain the tranny pan. Refill the tranny, then drive around the block. Get the car back up on ramps and repeat. DO this three times.

 

I have a freind with a low mileage car and he uses dino oil. At every oil change he drains then refills the tranny starting at 30,000 miles. AFter three oil chnages he leaves it be for another 30. It works for him.

 

If it hasnt been done in a while, i suggest the ramp method.

 

 

nipper

[usaru]

*

[usaru]

OK, but that's not going to give you a full flush, you're still left with 30% original fluid after 3 drain and refills. I think we've been around the block with this one before.

 

It takes 10 D & R's to get to about 2% original fluid.

[nipper]

OK, but that's not going to give you a full flush, you're still left with 30% original fluid after 3 drain and refills. I think we've been around the block with this one before.

 

yes we have, and mathmatically you will never have a 100% flush with that method, but you know, its cheaper and better then nothing, and its really one of the few times where its good enough.

 

 

Personally i am tired of shops charging rediculous prices for 15 minutes worth of work.

 

 

nipper

[usaru]

Agree with you there. I just do a D & R with every dino oil change. Its cheap and easy enough.

[mtnbob]

Can you pump out the tranny fluid with a pump? I've seen people changing their oil like that. Does anyone have experience changing their tranny fluid that way??:cool:

[nipper]

Can you pump out the tranny fluid with a pump? I've seen people changing their oil like that. Does anyone have experience changing their tranny fluid that way??:cool:

 

No.

 

Most of the fluid is inside the torque converter and other places in the transmission.

 

Laso those pumps are not worth the money. The ideal of a fluid change is to also get anything lying in the bottom of the pan in suspension. Drain points are at the low point of the pan to help expidite this, also it helps get all the fluid out.

 

The pumps leave to much behind.

 

nipper

[ericem]

if i turn on the engine while the drain plug is out, will it dump out the fluid from the torque converter? or is that a bad idea.

[nipper]

if i turn on the engine while the drain plug is out, will it dump out the fluid from the torque converter? or is that a bad idea.

 

Bad idea. WOuld you do the same thing during an oil change to get all the poil out of the crankase? No of course not. Its not only a medium to do mechanical work through, it's also a coolant and lubricant.

 

nipper