On my 80 GL wagon the shifter is all over the place, i heard that there is a bushing that is below floor board and above the tranny does any one know or where to go to fix?:cornfuzz:

first question before i give an answer. is it a loose shift or just when you are driving the thing is floating all over.

 

first if it's floating all over i'd just add a spring to hold the shifter still. it's on the top of the tranny on the shift linkage. there is also a bushing supposedly you can replace.

 

if your having to travel the stick really far to get in any gear i can tell you how to fix it.

 

i need more details of the problem. i need to know more. is it in all gears, are you having to move the linkage long distances to acheive where you need it to be. or is it just floping around.

It is when im driving and not. It seem to go in and out of gear fine just all over. Once its in gear i can move shifter all over almost like its not in gear, and when i put it in rev. it like im hitting girl friend in legs.:boohoo: so whatcha think:cornfuzz:

so you have to make it move farther to get the desired gear? correct

Yeah also after i reach that gear. Sorry to sound like a JACK A$$ but im trying to put down in words what im experiencing:banghead:

you don't sound like a jackass. i just want to give you the right advice

do you have aol instant messanger? this well be easier to explain. cause i don't have an of the old diagrams. my aim name is rooinater. if not i'll explain it here

It goes into gear fine just ALOT of play in and out of gear. R there any bushings thats what i herd the problem was?

ok here is what the problem i had on several of these tranny's. basically over time i would have to travel further left to go into first and further right to go into reverse. not to mention vibrated around some while in gear. does that sound like the problem?

Solution:

 

http://usmb.net/gallery/GeneralDisorders-Subaru-Pictures/shifter_play_fix

 

GD

cool. i sent him like 6 diagrams and a page of how to. cause the link i had to the fix page, was out of date or no longer existant.

Well - that happens to be a pic of MY shifter after I fixed that problem. She's tight as a drum now.

 

The problem with trying to get new parts is that it's not the roll pin that's worn - it's the hole in the shifter itself that's worn. Not cheap, and probably not even easy to get. Cutting the slot, and putting in the 3/8" bolt is way easier, and will probably last the life of the car.

 

Although I must admit that doing the repair with the transmission out of the car made it more trivial. Working under there with power tools sounds like more of a pain.

 

GD

GD is spot on about the problem, he is also correct about the power tools ect.

To remove and affect the repair of said shifter - one must work above and below.

Remove the shifter console cover. The cointray spacer behind the the shifter console and infront of the E brake housing is a snap fit.

It exposes the two phillips head screws for rear of the shifter console.

The metal retaining ring is next then the rubber boot gets lifted.

Fighting your way around the four wheel drive shift lever can be eased by removing the lever)

One 6mm (10 mm head size) bolt holds the shifter.

Now down under:

The pin GD speaks of, must be driven out. Note: this pin is a two piece affair you must get the inner and out pieces out.

The nuetral spring is an EZ removal but study it's mounting points.

The "barrel" must now be slotted back to the upright section

The bolt used to "clamp" the barrel back down is a 8mm (12 mm head size) The use of this size bolt precludes the drilling of said parts.

If you want the mutts nutz, a short shifter can be incorporated at this time (welding required, email for details)

Hope this helps

Thanks rooinater your info will be good

Hey thanks to SKIP and to GD for the info and pics . Im looking forward to asking more q's and getting all this great info:banana: :banana:

Good info on the 8mm bolt - thanks Skip.

 

I used a 3/8" cause it's what I had in both a bolt and a drill bit. But of course I had the tranny out, and was able to drill and all.

 

Never could figure out what they were thinking with that two-peice roll pin affair - just bizzare if you ask me. Too much play in spring steel. Who designed that?!? I really don't see why they just didn't bolt it in the first place....

 

GD

Seems there is lots o expierence dealing with this issue here

so please bear with me as I am trying to fix the slop also.

 

I have all parts removed to view the shifting mechanism. I do not

see that at this point I need to do the drill and bolt. Is the slop

in this area obvious or very small that would cause the slop?

 

According to the chilton's and my viewing, the change rod bushing

is in need of replacement. Took out the shifter arm and no bushing, all deteriorated. WOuld this cause the the slop and

sticking in 4th gear by itself? I also have to grind to get into 3rd.

 

How available is the change rod bushing?

 

Thanks in advace for some much needed help.

 

Glen

The bushing at the bottom of the shifter? It's about $3.00 and some change. Yes - that will cause slop too - also a lot of rattleing and nasty noises and so forth.

 

My local dealership even stocks that - they only stock 1 of course, but they do stock it. Very availible.

 

If you've got it apart - do both. Bolt it, and replace that bushing too. That will save you a trip down this road again.

 

Apparently using an 8mm bolt will preclude drilling according to Skip. That's very nice since power tools don't fit down there well. I drilled mine tho - made the bolt fit very snug, and then cutting the slot in the side really causes the bolt to be able to clamp down on the tranny shaft. My shifting is very smooth, and very positive. It's easy to find gears now too.

 

Grinding in third is an indication of a bad syncro. Fixing the shifter slop will not stop this. Does it do it all the time or only on the downshift? It it's only on the downshift, you can try going to 2nd first, then to third. That has worked for me. If it grinds all the time, then the syncro is about shot, and there's really nothing to do but rebuild the tranny, or buy a JY one.....

 

You can also try using redline brand gear oil. Mine grinds on the downshift, but I find that with redline it's a little better, and seems to go away after the tranny is warmed up. Still does it when cold tho. At least it helped, and may prolong my already worn syncro's. The stuff is expensive, but a lot of people swear by it, and gear oil aint cheap anyway, so I figured what the hell. Cost about $8.00 a quart from a local place for me. The tranny takes 3.5 quarts BTW.

 

GD

Thanks General .

 

For the record it is an 84 Brat I am working on. I will start with

the shifter work as you reccomend. Will do tomorow or this

evening.

From there I will see how the find and grind goes as I have not

driven the car (truck?) much since i purchased it. It does get

locked in 4th, think this might be slop related?

 

Please clarify the 'slot' that is repeatedly mentioned. Is this

equivalant to grinding a flat area on the shaft so the washers

and nut tighten down to a flat surface?

 

Also, yesterday when I started the shift work, it was my first

time under the car, and for that matter 1st time under any Brat.

Lots of gear oil on the undercarriage. I will steam clean it this

afternoon, but any common areas of leakage you are aware of?

 

Thanks,

Glen

So the little round bushing that the shifter sticks in is still a stocked part?

 

And it's only a few bucks?

 

Thanks for the info..........I'll be making a stop on the way home:D

 

Glenn,

82 Summer, (SubaruHummer) with broken ****er bushing........

01 Forester, nothing broken............

Glen the slot is shown in the USRM write up but maybe this "cheesy" drawing will show what it is. A bandsaw or hacksaw or sawzall will do a fine job, I made mine about 5mm wide. Make sure it goes back to the upright section of the shifter.

Hope this helps

Skip,

your picture is worth a thousand words. It would appear

that the function of the slot is so when the thru-bolt is tightened,

it tightens down firmly around the trans shaft elimating any

play (slop).

Am I on the right track?

 

Also, the local Subaru dealer found the change rod bushing and

will be in next week.

 

Thanks,

Glen

Glen you are absolutly correct, the bolt and nut GD speaks of, does the "clamping" that eliminates all slop in the connection

Ah yes - mine locks in 4th too (my Brat does). I have not yet fixed the slop in that one, so can't tell you if it's related or not. My wagon had a LOT of slop tho, and never locked in 4th, so my guess would be no..... possbily tho.

 

To prevent the locking in 4th, take it out of that gear before comming to a complete stop. If you forget and it locks, just rev to 3 grand and slip the clutch to get in inching forward, and take it out of gear. Has worked for me so far. I do plan to investigate that little problem further - will advise when I go after that one.

 

GD

Im underway on my sloppy shift and was wondering how long is that 8mm bolt? just so that i wont have too cut or go back for different length