okanagansubman Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 is there a way to tell if your rad cap is malfunctioning? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indrid cold Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 yes...and no... if I notice my resevoir seems to be filling up, temp creaping up or it is old I just replace the cap and cross that off the list of what could be wrong... Probably something fancy on the market... seems like a bit much unless your going to be doing this alot.... If you have a question if it isn't sealing, assure the gunk is cleaned off on the inner lip of the radiator where the rubber disk seats and I take a light abrasive green pad or rag and wipe the rubber and metal sealing surface clean of any gunk... If there is still issues that's the first thing I change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rllywgn Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 if i question it... I change it... cheap enough.. running mine here in vegas with a/c blasting.. Cooling system is always in tip top shape.. I would rather just take comfort in knowing its new and good to go.. 192f running temp all day long with a/c.. city or freeway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misledxcracker Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 also! make sure the seals on the cap arent cracking, just pull them outwards with your finger, you'll notice if the seals are cracked... my car used to always run sorta hot, until i replaced it, then no more of that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Most auto parts stores will let you borrow a radiator cap pressure tester, to make sure its holding pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 is there a way to tell if your rad cap is malfunctioning? Since there is no tester to borrow locally,I use a bicycle pump w/a gauge and check valve teed into a small coolant line.Even new caps are worth testing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misledxcracker Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Most auto parts stores will let you borrow a radiator cap pressure tester, to make sure its holding pressure. Not one single chain store around here has cap testers to borrow, they only sell them... Another good way to find out if your cap isnt holding pressure AT ALL, is to slowly and i mean SLOWLY undo the radiator cap a bit, once the car's up to normal temp and shut off... If you hear hissing or even a small popping noise, then it's holding some kind of pressure... If you can get the cap all the way off with no hiss or pop noise, no pressure... That's just what I learned from someone else, and it proved tried and true in my case. (BTW please dont try this test if the car runs too hot... a shower of hot coolant is no fun) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Um how about if i finish driving my car and come to a stop and see coolant coming out the overflow? The car doesnt overheat but does that sometimes. Time for a new cap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okanagansubman Posted May 17, 2007 Author Share Posted May 17, 2007 thats exactly what mine is doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okanagansubman Posted May 17, 2007 Author Share Posted May 17, 2007 i need to replace a head gasket. i have an ohc engine. its an old car thats not worth very much so im not sure if its worth the trouble. how long should it take to change? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 Some parts are cheap enough to just replace. This is one of them. Usually one sign is that it keeps dumping fluid in the resivoir, and not sucking it back in. Another is the overflow filling up at a low temp. A bad HG will vomit all the fluid out. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rllywgn Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 its a 6 to 7 dollar part.. whats the fuss? if your having cooling issues troubleshoot the system.. verify that the radiator isnt clogged (cold spots), bhg is/can be a tricky one but sweet smelling exhaust, coolant in your oil, and/or oil in your coolant. In hot areas replace all fluid lines every couple years, verify that your mechanical fan has some "slip" and that your electric functions. Does the thermostat function properly? if you have a mechanical temp gauge you can almost tell exactly what the t-stat is doing.. If you question it replace it.. 6 or 7 bucks once again.. you can tell in some instances where your problem lies if your having overheating issues by when it does overheat.. and a big thing to me is.. DON'T USE TAP WATER!!!.. distilled is the only way to go unless your using a off the shelf 50/50 mix This is why I dont overheat.. I dont want to do another headgasket job.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 I had a bad headgasket that was causing no problems beside a constant bubbling into the coolant overflow (with a new cap and radiator,) a *slight* tendency to overheat when provoked, and a slight dip in compression in one cylinder. I took my engine apart in one easy day, spent two or three days getting things cleaned and fretting over the fact that I ordered the wrong O rings, and one easy day re assembling it. It fired up on the first shot, which is something I frequently have issues with. (read: "It," whatever it may be, rarely fires up on the first shot, with my luck.) I had never done major engine work before; but I have been around that kind of stuff my whole life. The big secret: ratcheting bow wrenches for the valve cover bolts, and you can do it with engine in car, and you need to replace the cam case o rings with OEM branded parts from http://www.thepartsbin.com or 1stsubaruparts.com. The second website is a dealership; you should use OEM intake manifold gaskets as well, and most recommend dealer or Fel-Pro Perma-Torque head gaskets (I vote fel pro, especially at 17 bucks apiece from autozone) All that is IF you need to do your headgaskets. I would not consider "radiator evidence" proof positive of a blown headgasket without at least a compression check to verify at least one cylinder having a compression issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okanagansubman Posted May 17, 2007 Author Share Posted May 17, 2007 i know its a head gasket. whats a ratcheting bow wrench? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 i know its a head gasket. whats a ratcheting bow wrench? I think he meant wratcheting BOX end wrench, like the *Gearwrench* brand. You don't need to have them but there are a few places where having a 10mm one is great. Notably the valvecovers and the Clutch fan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 I think he meant wratcheting BOX end wrench, like the *Gearwrench* brand. You don't need to have them but there are a few places where having a 10mm one is great. Notably the valvecovers and the Clutch fan. Yes, ratcheting box wrench. I *think* that the cheap set is still on sale at harbor freight tools until the end of the month, something like $15 for four of them. They arent the GREATEST tools quality-wise, but my brothers was still in perfect working order after doing my HG job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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