dude_4_sale Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 when i get on the gas even just alittle, the car sputters and sounds like its gagging and doesnt want to go anywhere, until the rpm gets to about 2k. got plenty of power above 2k but nothing under it. just redid HG's and have checked the timing three times. changed the air and fuel filter. no vac leaks that i can tell. any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 first off, how certain are you that you re routed the vacuum lines properly? Second off, if the lines are routed properly and you are positive there is no vacuum leak, i would suspect the spark plugs.. but thats because *I* just redid my headgaskets and spent three months chasing down a similar issue which ended up being caused by my beautiful, but 35K mile old NGK's. On a related note, check the rotor retaining screw, and try checking timing on cylinder #2... make sure that your timing belts arent installed 180 out. Also, double check to make sure you didnt inadvertently swap two of the round barrel plugs located near the front, passenger side of the throttle body.. I forget specifically which two compoenents have the same plug, I think the IAC and maybe the fuel injector?? but either way, if you mix them up it wont run , or wont run right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 A couple RWAGs (Random Wild A$$ Guesses) do have a way to test the TPS?? (Throttle Position Sensor) It may not be telling the ECU the throttle is open. (Engine Control Unit) Are we sure the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve is not getting a signal to open and /or it is not stuck open? l l l v Don't ya hate when people use "(<-->)"'s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude_4_sale Posted June 29, 2007 Author Share Posted June 29, 2007 what do u mean 180 out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted June 30, 2007 Share Posted June 30, 2007 Hey Dea-- I think? He's asking you? Verbage is a bit unclear? We both need an update on Mr. Dude try this for starters Today, 07:28 PM GeneralDisorder vbmenu_register("postmenu_623714", true); I'm an rump roast! Join Date: Nov 2002 City: Portland State: Oregon Age: 27 Posts: 8,467 iTrader: (3) Vehicles: 85 Brat 84 Wagon 86 Sedan Photos Re: injector on loyales Quote: Originally Posted by dude_4_sale i have read on a few other threads of ppl putting larger weber throttle bodies on the loyales. anyone got any info or links? Weber makes no such beast, and you have not read this. You are mixing up carbs and fuel injection - they are two totally different, and incompatible animals. A Weber will no more work on your loyale's fuel injection than a ball point pen would work for cutting hair. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yes I Own an MGB Posted June 30, 2007 Share Posted June 30, 2007 I am having this same exact problem, except carb'd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 30, 2007 Share Posted June 30, 2007 I am having this same exact problem, except carb'd Then it really isn't the same problem then is it? You may have the same symptoms.... but how that is germain to this man's question (and indeed - why you didn't start your own thread?) escape me. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yes I Own an MGB Posted June 30, 2007 Share Posted June 30, 2007 I believe I did start my own thread, and perhaps the word I should have used was "symptoms" and not problems. Sorry to offend your sensibilities. Guess I'm used to more understanding folk on the British car boards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted June 30, 2007 Share Posted June 30, 2007 All i meant by 180 out was this: After installing the first timing belt, you are supposed to rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees before installing the second (if you are following book procedure) People frequently line up both camshaft pulleys and install both belts, forgetting to rotate the crankshaft once. It is an easy mistake (i did it the first time i put belts on my soob) and sometimes it will run poorly.. but it is FAR from right. Also, the timing belts may be off a tooth.. my intent was simply this : check the timing belts to be 110% that they are installed correctly. I know you did that before you re installed the covers,but do it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude_4_sale Posted July 1, 2007 Author Share Posted July 1, 2007 we got the sputtering problem taken care of. the filter on the injector somehow got pushed up and the filter rubber was blocking the fuel. now theres no sputter or anything. another ? though. the oil pressure is at 45 lbs until it gets hot then it drops way down. then at idle the pressure gauge says 0. should it be doin that or is that a bad pump? could this cause the car to severely overheat? also coolant from the radiator is runnin out somewhere. we just changed the HGs. we have followed all the water hoses and dont really see any leaks. only goes away when hot. is that a cracked head or can it just have a leak and the water is burning off to fast to see leakage? also when we start the car if u let it idle the temp goes up to 1/3, is that the proper temp or should it be lower? my 94 loyale doesnt get that hot but this is a older car? i told him to put a trans cooler on there since the radiator is shard for this. that should help alittle right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misledxcracker Posted July 1, 2007 Share Posted July 1, 2007 I'd check out the oil pump seals. Bad oil pump would register at 0 all the time, wouldnt it? 45 at warm, 0 at idle is about the same as mine. And I've got to reseal the oil pump again for the 2nd time in a few months. Drat. Oh yeah here's something to keep in mind: Subaru gauges can tend to be unreliable. Nonetheless, sealing up that oil pump is good preventive maintenance, and it'll keep the engine from ticking music in your ears . Seal issues on the oil pump wont cause your car to overheat from my experience. Maybe get some new gauges and tap them in?? I've had a coolant loss problem when cold, because of the pressure build before the thermostat opened, and there was a pinhole leak on the radiator itself. This may be your issue indeed. This is a good time to first get your cooling system pressure tested, find your problem, fix it, and verify that everything else is up to snuff. Letting it warm and it reaching 1/3 wouldnt alarm me. If in doubt, get yourself an OEM Subaru thermostat and a gasket.... replace it. I wouldnt worry too much about that though, get that coolant loss taken care of first. Transmission cooler? I wouldnt bother. Good luck to you man, chasing down the demons can be a PITA, but in the end you'll have a damn good car, trust me and all the others on this board Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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