CHange wheel bearings, struts, and balljoints together.

[uniberp]

Now that the Legato AC and drivability issues are solved, onto the drivetrain.

 

I orderd the struts. I would like to change the rear wheel bearings (especially rear), since they seem loud, and front ball joints, since I've done that before and will be in there.

 

Does it make sense to do all this at once? Can I do the rear bearings with a simple straight press when the knuckle is off?

 

thanks in advance

 

mpergiel97legatoawd99foresterl

[tcspeer]

Yes to the last question, I done a 98 Legacy wagon with the Harbor Freight press.

Now that the Legato AC and drivability issues are solved, onto the drivetrain.

 

I orderd the struts. I would like to change the rear wheel bearings (especially rear), since they seem loud, and front ball joints, since I've done that before and will be in there.

 

Does it make sense to do all this at once? Can I do the rear bearings with a simple straight press when the knuckle is off?

 

thanks in advance

 

mpergiel97legatoawd99foresterl

[porcupine73]

You can do it in a press if you have the right drifts and stuff. Subaru later revised the procedure to use a slide hammer instead of a press, in part to help prevent deforming the bearing housing and/or damaging the bearing in the process.

[uniberp]

You can do it in a press if you have the right drifts and stuff. Subaru later revised the procedure to use a slide hammer instead of a press, in part to help prevent deforming the bearing housing and/or damaging the bearing in the process.

Thanks. I learned through trial and error how to prevent a press from binding up when inserting a bearing, by keeping a close eye on alignment and keeping a 'feel' on the pressure.

 

About the struts, is there any advantage of doing them right on the car, (or is it even possible?) without removing the upper mount? Does that save any time or effort, or keep from having to do an alignment? Seems like it might at least in some way, having a more solid purchase for the whole assembly.

 

Think it's possible to use a ball joint c-press to push the bearings out and in? I have one of these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/38300-38399/38335.gif

which I have used for a variety of purposes: replacing a-arm bushings and ball joints on Volvos.

[porcupine73]

I haven't yet replaced any wheel bearings so I don't know if that c-frame press would work. I guess it might if you had enough room to work. It doesn't look like the c portion is deep enough to fit though.

 

It doesn't seem like it would be entirely different than a hub tamer. There is an article on endwrench about how to do the bearing replacement with the slide hammer if you're interested. Though it seems to required some special parts. I think harbor freight does have a hub tamer type device...it was discussed in a thread on there maybe 6 months ago I think; I can see if I can find it if any interest. The whole knuckle/spindle doesn't have to come out this way.

 

I don't think there is any advantage to trying to do the struts on the vehicle. They come out and go in pretty easy, at least the fronts. The rears are easier on the wagons than the sedans I think.

 

For the front you wouldn't save needing an alignment anyway because the camber is done by the eccentric bolts and those have to be removed to get the old strut out. Though generally it would be just camber that's off and I've used just a level on the wheel to set the camber to zero.

[idosubaru]

if you do it properly, you can swap struts, springs or whatever without needing an alignment. mark the head of the top strut mount bolt and the strut bracket that it is flush against. when you go to reinstall the strut, make sure the two marks are lined up and you will retain your alignment. it's done all the time for hub, bearing, ball joint, axle...etc work. have a look at one of the bolts, look them up on ebay or a part diagram first if you've never seen one of those cambered adjustable bolts before. once you see it, you'll see exactly how it works and lining it back up will be a cinch.

 

use a coil spring compressor on the struts, they can be very dangerous. the loaner type stores will have them you can borrow for free. i'd imagine any rental place would have them as well and they're probably only a couple dollars.