Timing is everything...

 

I was supposed to replace my CV shafts in two weeks. I'd been pumping some grease into my torn boots off and on, in an attempt to preserve their life until I could swap in new shafts. As luck would have it, I'm driving home last night, make a right turn from a stop sign, and--SNAP--my outer CV joint on the passenger side busted. Less than a mile from home.

 

Naturally, that stranded me. The boot was already torn open, so I felt inside and found chunks of the chewed up joint. The shaft itself had some in-and-out play as well.

 

Is it likely that all I need to do is replace the CV shafts, or is there a good chance that in the process of chewing up a CV joint, other parts of the auto transmission was toasted as well? I hate to put the hours in of swapping in two new shafts only to discover that I chewed up more than just an outer joint.

 

Thanks for any insight...

your transmission should be fine for this scenario alone. i've personally seen it....actually never with an old axle, but with brand new ones blowing up which is why i recommend MWE now and avoid any aftermarkets. were their preexisting issues that make you think there's a problem?

our tranny will be fine. If anything the wheel bearing and hub MAY take a beating from the bad CV joint. Just inspect them closely when you replace the axle.

 

 

nipper

were their preexisting issues that make you think there's a problem?

 

Well, the boots had been torn for some time and started popping recently. I've been putting off the chore of swapping in new ones until I have some vacation time in a couple weeks.

our tranny will be fine. If anything the wheel bearing and hub MAY take a beating from the bad CV joint. Just inspect them closely when you replace the axle.

 

 

nipper

 

Thanks.

 

I've never done this job before, so I guess this is trial by fire here. I'm going to see how far I can get into it before I have to call in "the old man" for backup. The task intimidates me some, but money is a pretty powerful motivational tool for automotive experience...

 

I don't know if a flat-tow was a bad idea or not. I live less than a mile away from where it broke down, so it was minimal rolling.

The flat tow is fine if it is an MT. AT's should not be towed with any wheels on the ground. If you towed it slowly for that short a distance it may be OK. Ideally if the engine still runs I'd let it idle in neutral, that way the fluid still circulates and everything.

axles are actually very easy to replace. the very tricky part at times is just getting the axle nut off. bend the tab out of the way..you'll see it, to make sure the nut can turn. then the axle nut is very, very tight. a 3/4" socket set or air tools are preferred. if you don't have those, then a 1/2" may or may not work (i've broken 3 1/2" sockets and a 1/2" breaker bar on axle nuts). if you have any heat source, an el-cheapo propane torch even, heat the nut up and it'll come right off. that's your best bet if you don't have the 3/4" or air tools. after that just follow directions. i recommend MWE axles but with time and money concerns that's probalby not a good fit for you. if it's new enough, snag some used ones, i prefer those over aftermarkets myself.

Having good results so far with my MWE axle.

 

My axle nut came right off with an air impact wrench. It's almost like it wasn't tight enough because it loosened in just a few beats. Though I did heat it with a torch first, maybe that's why....

if you have any heat source, an el-cheapo propane torch even, heat the nut up and it'll come right off

Thanks for the tips. I don't have a little torch, but was eyeballing one last week at the hardware store, so here's my excuse to get one.

torches are money, they work excellent for hard to get bolts. with heat you won't have any problems with the axle nut, makes it a very simple job. heat the nut only for about 1 minute, then apply torque as soon as possible. i'd be very, very surprised if it doesn't come off with ease. some small handheld torches are only $10-$20, well worth it. larger, hotter varieties are nice when you start getting into seized, rusted and corroded parts, but not necessary for basic stuff.

Simple propane or mapp is nice for fasteners. Mapp burns a little hotter as it has some propodiene or something added to the propane. The kind with the rubber hose is nice because it is easier to manipulate the torch end, although it is easy to tip the cylinder over. For cutting you'd need like oxygen+acetylene or maybe oxygen+mapp.