J A Blazer Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 2000 OBW, 108K. Slightly overdue for timing belt change; 105K is the recommended interval. I removed the driver's side cam sprocket cover and inspected the belt and don't see any obvious defects. Should I put any faith at all on a belt that 'looks good' at this mileage? And, what is the bare minimum of other parts that should be replaced at the same time as the belt, so as not to unnecessarily repeat labor later on? Water pump? Cam seals? TIA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towel Rail Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 I'd change it. Rubber has a way of "looking good" when it's really cracked and ready to fall apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 2000 OBW, 108K. Slightly overdue for timing belt change; 105K is the recommended interval. I removed the driver's side cam sprocket cover and inspected the belt and don't see any obvious defects. Should I put any faith at all on a belt that 'looks good' at this mileage?Let's see, another few thousand miles on the belt versus risking getting stranded with major engine damage (the 2.5L is an interference design)... umm, I'd change the belt. And, what is the bare minimum of other parts that should be replaced at the same time as the belt, so as not to unnecessarily repeat labor later on? Water pump? Cam seals? TIA.Yes, maybe idlers, tensioner, etc.; scroll down, see "Similar Threads", and do a search. (I must admit, I'm having a hard time simultaneously meeting the request for "bare minimum" and "so as not to unnecessarily repeat labor later on".) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcniest5 Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 Talking about timing belt, I believe mine is over 100K miles now. Should I do it before it breaks on the road? It's such a pain to do it, though. Maybe this summer, I will do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 Talking about timing belt, I believe mine is over 100K miles now. Should I do it before it breaks on the road?[...]At least with your '91 2.2L, which is non-interference, you'd be facing a tow (but not engine damage) if it breaks. However, the recommended change interval on your engine is 60,000 miles; if the timing belt hasn't been replaced once already, it's long overdue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetone Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 ...And, what is the bare minimum of other parts that should be replaced at the same time as the belt, so as not to unnecessarily repeat labor later on? Water pump? Cam seals? TIA. Water pump, now! It will not last another 105,000 miles. Trust me... Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 Should I put any faith at all on a belt that 'looks good' at this mileage? And, what is the bare minimum of other parts that should be replaced at the same time as the belt, so as not to unnecessarily repeat labor later on? Hi. The belt could last for a long time yet, but it is at the change interval (105k miles or 105 months) so you should change it. As mentioned that is an interference engine so if the belt breaks it will very likely bend some valves plus leave you stranded. Things to look at/replace at the same time....all OEM components should be used; yes you can get inexpensive kits on eBay but OEM isn't all that much more expensive and is of known good quality. Front cam seals, front crank seal, reseal oil pump replace o-ring check rear case cover screws for backing out, water pump and gasket, replace geared/toothed idler near water pump and at least check the other idlers valve clearance is also due for inspection/adjustment at this time; it is easy to do on this engine because it has solid lifters with the screw/nut adjusters. Also need valve cover gasket kit (gaskets, spark plug hole seals, bolt hole washers). Also your accessory drive belts are due for replacement at 105k. I just did all these jobs on my '00obw last year at 105k. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcniest5 Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 At least with your '91 2.2L, which is non-interference, you'd be facing a tow (but not engine damage) if it breaks. However, the recommended change interval on your engine is 60,000 miles; if the timing belt hasn't been replaced once already, it's long overdue. I put in a new timing belt when I first got mine back in '01. It had like 148,xxx at that time. Now it has 248,xxx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 I put in a new timing belt when I first got mine back in '01. It had like 148,xxx at that time. Now it has 248,xxx.Timing belts obviously sometimes last considerably longer than the recommended change interval, but only those owners with non-interference engines aren't taking a big risk. You've gone 40,000 miles beyond the suggested interval, a testimonial to the particular belt you installed, and possibly related to other factors such as reasonable temperature and driving style. Sometimes, with elevated temps, "spirited" driving, some oil leaks, etc., a timing belt may even break or jump before the expected life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 You've gone 40,000 miles beyond the suggested interval.... not necessarily. i thought there was a 60k belt for all legacys in the US except calf. and a 105k belt for california cars. i priced belts at autozone and the calif. belt is cheaper than the fed belt, but you have to order it. so if you walk in and ask for a legacy t-belt you pay more and get less. if you order it, you pay less and get more. there's a price difference at genuine subaru parts as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 not necessarily.[...]Okay... Jcniest5, did you use a California-model belt 100,000 miles ago? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 Okay... Jcniest5, did you use a California-model belt 100,000 miles ago? due regardless. point taken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcniest5 Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 Okay... Jcniest5, did you use a California-model belt 100,000 miles ago? Well, I changed it when I was living in Sacramento, CA, but I'm not sure if it's a CA timing belt or not. My engine has no oil leak, so I hope it will last until summer as I would never do it in the winter (in MN, that is). It's too cold to touch anything when the snow arrives. If I can do it within the next few weeks, I think I still can (assuming snow doesn't show up yet). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcniest5 Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 not necessarily. i thought there was a 60k belt for all legacys in the US except calf. and a 105k belt for california cars. i priced belts at autozone and the calif. belt is cheaper than the fed belt, but you have to order it. so if you walk in and ask for a legacy t-belt you pay more and get less. if you order it, you pay less and get more. there's a price difference at genuine subaru parts as well. By ordering, do I automatically get California timing belt? Or what should I tell them so I will get one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 Well, I changed it when I was living in Sacramento, CA[...]Under the circumstances, you may well be "safe" for a bit longer, and again, a '91 2.2L won't self-destruct if the belt does break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 By ordering, do I automatically get California timing belt? Or what should I tell them so I will get one? supposedly the belts on a 2.2L are easy to do but it's still labor. unless you need it immediately, i'd order it online and get the cheaper one (100k). if you get one from AZ and it fails, you have to do it again. i got some great advice about replacement parts for computers a long time ago, and i think it's true for critical car parts as well. don't buy the cheapest parts you can find, buy the besst deal on QUALITY parts you can find. it'll run longer. you can get a belt as cheap as 28$ at AZ, but i'll order the $40 somthing subaru OE belt on line. i just have to remember to plan ahead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcniest5 Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 ...you can get a belt as cheap as 28$ at AZ, but i'll order the $40 somthing subaru OE belt on line. i just have to remember to plan ahead. Can you give me their website? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 Can you give me their website? http://www.subarugenuineparts.com http://www.1stsubaruparts.com http://www.subarupartsforyou.com you can search the last one and get partnumbers and then check the other 2 sites and order from the one you want. there's always shipping. i prefer jamie @ subau genuine parts, she's a member here. have your vin# handy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jib Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 Interference vs. non-interference is critical. Do the belt around the 105 mark, along with the other previously suggested seals, etc. It's cheap insurance. I broke a belt on a (non-interference) ’72 Chevy Vega GT, but had a spare in my garage, so I walked home, loaded a tool box and the spare (used) belt on the back of my bicycle. I lined up the cam/crank marks, engaged the ribs on the pulley and started the belt onto the cogged pulleys. Bumping the engine walked the belt completely onto the cogged pulleys. I loaded the bike in the back and drove home. I didn’t even need a tool beyond the one socket needed to pull the cover off the front of the engine. I probably should have adjusted the belt tension . . . . . . . . I miss simple engines. Jack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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