This is probably a really dumb question, but should everything have around 12 volts if there is power going through it, or will the voltage vary depending on what component I'm testing?

 

(Well after a late night of prowling around the house the cat is up again and ready for more hunting.)

 

A very good question actually and from what I have seen before the signal wires will not be 12 volts but more like around 5 to 7 volts I believe.

 

You are correct about pin 52 and after looking over things again I see I wasn't looking at that pins function correctly in the past.

 

Along with making sure the power connections are as they should be I think it would be wise to make sure the wiring between the ECU and the disty crank sensor is intact as well. This brings up a question, have you checked the ECU for error codes yet?

Okay, I went outside and checked for the CE light, and noticed that it doesnt turn on with the car anymore. (This is jogging my memory) The light had been on since I bought the car because it had an exhaust leak manifold/head connection on the passenger side and was throwing off the o2 sensor. I had fixed it, but never cleared the code. Now the funny part was, the night that it started to run funny (cutting out while driving), the CE light went out. Ironically, when it was running its worst. I just went out and watched the o2 light on the ECU, but it does nothing.

This could either mean the lamp circuit is intermittent or there is a power problem to the ECU. We need to find out what the status is of the power leads to the ECU first. Maybe the ignition relay is intermittent.

I'm a little hesistant to just cut the wires going to the crank angle sensor, and the wire going to the igniter and just run new wires myself. It would be really nice to have this thing running :cool:

Ahh... Disregard the last post, I'm just frustrated with electricity I will check the power leads to the ECU then.

Ok, so I checked the powers for the ECU, pins 27,29,41,and 49.

27 and 49 are both at 12 volts, however 29 and 41 are both around .4 or .5 volts :-\ Hopefully I'm getting somewhere here,haha. They are both white wires. If I'm reading this correctly, it looks as if they both come from the Ignition Relay. I was thinking the whole time, if the relay was bad it wouldn't even turn over, but I might be thinking of something else.

Success! After many headaches, replaced parts, and wire testing...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was the Ignition Relay :cool:

 

Advanced Auto has no listing for them, but I did take mine apart and manually operate it, and the car fired right up. Thank you Cougar for the idea of checking the different power wires to the ECU, I would have never thought, and never tracked them 3 dead ones to the relay. I can't thank you enough for helping me out this whole time!! The Loyale lives again.

94 Loyale: Nice job, way to stick with it.

Cougar: Good work.

Excellent troubleshooting on a very difficult problem.

Good job on fixing the trouble. You're welcome for the help 94Loyale and thanks for the feedback on the solution. It may help someone else later on. One thing to remember when troubleshooting electrical problems is always check the power supply connections first for any problem before looking at other suspect areas.

 

Thanks for the who-rah Bill90Loyale. The cat is on prowl again for more trouble.

Excellent - glad you fixed it, and good job on the troubleshooting. Don't see enough of successes with this stuff - people just don't seem to have the patience anymore.

 

GD

GeneralDisorder, I definitely owe you a thanks too! I couldn't have done it without the .pdf of the factory service manual. So thank you :-) I got her fixed just in time too, it snowed pretty good here last night, but I was prepared

 

Besides the two that I mentioned, thank you to everyone else, for your input and great ideas, I really appreciate everything!

 

Bret*

We all appreciate your gratitude 94Loyale. It's nice to know that another Soob owner is back on the road again. Hope you have no more car trouble for a long time but if you do, you know where you can get some extra help if you need it.

Success! After many headaches, replaced parts, and wire testing...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was the Ignition Relay :cool:

 

i have a question, where/what is the ignition relay? b/c i am having similar probs with my 1992 Loyale

JumpingJohn,

The ignition relay supplies 3 different wires with power to the ECU. Mine still had plenty of fuel, but no spark. After checking the dash, I noticed the check engine light no longer came on when I turned the key to run. So me and Cougar figured that there was a power problem to the ECU because of this. I checked all the power wires going to the ECU and noticed that 3 were not powered and traced them back to the relay. It is brown in color, and has 5 or 6 pins, can't remember. Normal auto parts stores have no listing at all or cross reference for them, but http://www.rockauto.com does. For now, since I have not gotten to the junkyard, I broke the casing off of the relay, and operate it by hand to start the car You have to pull the ECU down, and it is mounted above that. If that ends up being your problem, let me know and I can grab 2 at the junkyard

An easy way to check if that is, first, check for the check engine light to come on when you set the key to run. If it does not, on the biggest connector on the ECU, check the voltage to the two white wires (pins 29 & 41). If you have no power there, then I would suspect the relay.